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Is $400 a reasonable price from a wrecker for an EJ251 block?
Been searching for one for ages (without resorting to a wrecker) with no luck. $400 seems kinda steep....

Simple answer is NO. The engines in those models moved to the phase 2 designs. You’d need to swap the intake to the EJ25D and that also requires an entire wiring loom swap, not worth it. Sticking with Fords?! Where’s the fun in that?? Cheers Bennie Boo... ah well, at least now I know. Yup... defini...

Time for yet another dumb question...... Are the EJ25D heads compatible with a next generation vehicle (e.g. 97-2002 Outback or similar)? I understand I should be able to use a newer block with my heads in the 97 outback, but what about putting my heads on a newer model outback? ...should have stuck...

Will these heads go on a MY10 EJ25? without any stuffing around?
The block says EJ25 but am I right in assuming the overall motor is an EJ253?

G'day Bennie, Thanks so much for your feedback and advice. Hope you're enjoying a nice Christmas. Could you possibly provide me with any more info about the correct type of block to source? It seems there are many different variants of the EJ25D. You mention an EJ251 block. If I am interpreting this...

Yeah apparently there is some debate as to if you can swap the buckets or not... the engine shop didn't want to say one way or another. Yeah have tried turning it to make sure it seats properly. I removed and refitted it a few times. I think it is right, but not 100% sure. I'll take some measurement...

Okay so..... Decided to proceed. Yesterday, the engine shop calls me up to confirm how my valve buckets appear. Turns out they are non hydraulic so they need to be ground. More $$. More regret. Apparently Subaru released these motors with several different valve bucket configurations. Yep... lets go...

Just a bit of a follow up in case this information is useful for someone else. After a week or so, it started making a funny noise. Turned out, despite putting the required torque on the nuts and putting the seals in what I thought was correctly, one drive shaft was quite a bit loose. I noticed a bi...

The engine shop said the gasket had failed even though it was the better quality gasket. They also found the heads were not in the greatest condition (sticky / leaky valves). $1000 to restore the heads and supply new gaskets / bolts. Thinking I am just going to cut my losses and part it out at this ...

So I reckon I have wasted my time. The head and gasket looks fine. This is the side with the worst compression readings. https://www.dropbox.com/s/aluvf9n7ppm0jpy/20211102_133056.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/9arwny5bdiy4src/20211102_133031.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/fby29yoochj3wv2/202...

Edit:

Don't mind me - just continuing the trend of general stupidity. Turns out the mark on the crank is the one at the back, not the arrow on the front.

So I got the motor out but, had a pretty significant ooops. Because I was arrogant and figured I knew what I was doing, I didn't read a manual and attempted to remove the motor without first unbolting the torque converter. I also failed to correctly balance the motor for removal. End result: The mot...

Subaru managed to take everything that made the older models good....and ruin it. Well over an hour to get 4 plugs out! Number 4 was nearly impossible. Undo it too far and you can no longer remove your ratchet... Comp test results: 1: 1150 2: 1050 3: 950 4: 850 Yup, that looks fine. What else could ...

Thanks Bennie. I'll see if I can get the plugs out and compression tester in there tomorrow..not a lot of room to work compared to the old Brumby! Yeah agree engine out seems heaps easier. They don't look too difficult to pull all things considered. Going to try and get a workshop manual and will go...

Picked up a cheap 97 Outback thinking it would be an easy fix up (running rough). Once I got it home, I realised it could be more serious. It sounds like it needs exhaust flange gaskets, but that wouldn't result in it running rough. I undid the radiator cap whilst it was running (not hot) and there ...

I used the tie rod ends in their specified orientation despite being the opposite shape to the OEM ones. (see https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=49976) It was a bit of a struggle to get everything back in. The drive shafts in particular were a bit of a pain but all just required time to wo...

Thanks Bennie.

Can you confirm if the kit was specifically incorrect for a Brumby or if the Brumby can have both types of front wheel hubs?

If the kit was absolutely not correct for a Brumby, I'll insist the shop provide me the correct seals. Otherwise, I guess I am buying a couple of 72mm seals.

Roadsafe tie rod L/R are opposite to current ones. What do I do? Switch left / right or use as is? https://www.dropbox.com/s/zsgx0j5s4zqf8v5/20211010_150622.jpg?dl=0 :mmm: Maybe road safe take L/R from front on instead of passenger is left and drivers is right. :mmm: I actually hate this brand. Neve...

I grabbed a plastic heater tap ready to do this conversion, thinking mine was stuffed. Turns out, nothing wrong with my tap. These things are built solid. I expect these taps will outlast almost everything else on the vehicle looking at the quality of materials and workmanship. I cleaned it, greased...

Spent a bit more time setting the press up correctly instead of half arsing it. Pressed out the rubber then applied a bit of heat to the inside of the sleeves and they came out easy as without excessive pressure required. New Superpro bushes in. The mounting points required a bit of manipulation to ...