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Is there meant to be a pic attached to the above post?? It doesn't really make much sense otherwise... Cheers Bennie haha - pics coming next week, car is stripped back and being panel beaten into shape... Have a V4 engine, V5 RA DCCD Gbag and new R160 4.44 CLSD rear diff to go in and replace the Le...

Can anyone say "rebuild"...... time for some cancer removal and a new drive train me thinks......

How did you do the hydro clutch conversion? I've seen some bad ones. I bought a project which already had it done by welding on a piece onto the L series clutch pedal which then pushed on the master cylinder. Was mis-aligned and hideously heavy. We're now putting that engine/box combo into a Vortex...

Sorry Gannon, I PM'd you a reply before realising you had posted here, but for anyone reading this thread... I went straight to coilover suspension so did not have this issue - you could redrill the top mounts if you have enough clearance at the top of the strut back (this would need a new plate on ...

Cool - must see......
Ill see if I can PM Gannon

Whats Gannon up to - is another Leone rally car hiding in a shed somewhere?!?!?!

This is a photo of the same day as above, shows the LH corner about 40sec into the above vid

Will do AP

Great - thanks guys, appreciate the help clarifying the specifics! I saw Andrew T's old thread during my search but was unsure how it applied to the later model female socket diffs. Looks like I have all the bits to give the old rally car a 4.44 ratio drivetrain...... yay Should match up to my V3 ST...

ok - will that enable me to move the male splines over to the 4.44 diff as well, or will I be stuck with the female sockets?
I assumed I would need to use the RX diff housing as while I have not pulled them apart I expect the side plate seals differ between the two spline types??

Guys, I have done a bit of a search but can't find any info on what I want to do..... so here's ask'in I have a RX leone 3.7 R160 CLSD with male stubs and a Legacy (Liberty) B4 4.444 R160 VLSD with female sockets What I want to achieve is a 4.444 CLSD with ideally the male stubs - ie put the crown a...

Just to prove the car is still alive - haha!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8j9Z3OB40uY&feature=plcp

don't pimp out a sweet collectors item. Buy an old GC8 rally car and do it for real, more fun, less $ at risk and no wank factor...

Thanks for the offer man , good to know there are some genuine blokes still out there.
I have a spare shell and most spares, the only thing I am missing is the old original CLSD which I want to put back in.
Hard to believe I have ovned and sold 3 of these over the years - haha

The light weight black spring is called a keeper spring, it is only any use for lowered cars with short springs. It enables you to lower the car height while still ensuring the spring remains captive when the wheel is in full droop. Probably not needed in your application unless the platform thread ...

I have recently moved up to Northland in good ol' NZ so it has been a while since I had a skid.
Latest Event was on the weekend - good fun road, had an great result for me, even managed to beat most of the WRX's - lol

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SL826wbI5aA

T'subaru wrote:That looks Cool! Ive been thru your build thread, that and the videos, nicest L rally car ive seen:)

lol - not that many L series Rally cars out there. Its a big scoop but, nothing subtle about it. You don't want to be less than 5'10" or you won't see over it -

showthread.php?t=8938

Top old crashed car is a Mitsi Cordia scoop
Most the way down the page on the new car is a Holden Rodeo Ute scoop, but I have doubled the height by folding the bonnet steel to make supports for the scoop to attach to.

Anything less that factory std for the engine will imho end up being a pita at some point...
If it was me i would get the preasure plate resprung to the equiv of the factory turbo preasure.

Suparoo, The only word of caution when installing a heavy cable clutch is make sure you beef up the clutch pedal cam. Pull out the clutch pedal and right at the top is a cam shaped piece of metal only supported on one side with a small piece of plate, this extends up above the main pivot tube. This ...