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Subaru wagon 1992 model. Reasonable condition for age. Motor runs well. 330,000km. Registered until December 2015. Rear shockers replaced recently. Timing belt replaced recently. Tow Bar and driving lights. Looseness in steering due to worn tie rod ends. More photos if genuine interest. View in Upwe...

A big Hi to all you all old farts who were around in the early 2000's. I have been traveling extremely well in the1992 wagon for all these years. Not my daily driver but weekend bush getaway vehicle. I retired recently and have just ordered myself a 2015 Outback 3.6R. The sales person wanted to know...

Have decided to replace seals in oil pump while doing the timing belts. What is the best way to remove the drive cog ???? Have tried leaving the belt on but it just jumps a tooth when I turn the nut. Is it a normal thread or reverse thread ?

G'day Steptoe, young fella.
Any idea of approximate freighted cost of towbar to Upwey, Vic ,3158

Born in 1947.......year of the first Holden.......my first car !! Number plate...UK 339.

That makes me a proud 62. ( Just been thru the whole thread; didn't see any older ??)

Volks- Baru . 1362 Heatherton Road, Dandenong. PH.9793 5655
John Bailey....he rebuilt my twin port EA81.

Thanks for all the responses. I will follow "Gregory's" sequence, as shown by Steptoe and appreciate what Daza is saying about the different ways of doing it; for different results. If "Gregorys" way also flushes the system, I will be happy to have used more fluid, as I dont know the service history...

I have two workshop manuals for Subaru. A Haynes 1980 thru 1989 and a Gregory's 1979 thru to 1994. Haynes doesn't specify any bleeding sequence. Gregory has two different sequences. One for '79 to '84 and one for '85 to '87. I am now working on a '92 L series 4wd wagon. Would I be better using the l...

steptoe wrote:Twin carbs from EA81 will fit on an EA82 with removal of just a little alloy. They oughta make things GO...

Good idea, but I sold them !!

Thanks for the replies; the sort of info I was after.( Thought someone might have referred me to the "sticky" started by Baron V C Pants. I remembered it afterwards and checked it out. Good info there too. ) ""you can correct Subarus screwed up exhaust pulse problem and have the engine scavange far ...

I will now have to convert my ride details on this site. A guy from Brisbane bought my subi. Flew down from Brissy and drove it back. He is very happy; it didnt skip a beat and got about 12k's to the litre overall. I am still in the process of doing up an L series. After I get it registered, I will ...

The ABS guy reckons there are so many similar mistakes in the computer catalogue its not funny. He checked around and got back to me with some prices........ Result is, I have a reco'd set of calipers. Kit for both $170, total labour $50........ And they are nicely sand blasted ready for a groovy hi...

The dust seals on one of the disc brake calipers of my L series wagon is badly torn. Took both calipers down to local ABS branch. He was getting prices of about $1000 for a complete rebuild kit. I couldn't believe it; neither could he. He reckons it might be because of the associated hand brake cam....

Saw this ad on ebay for an '84 sportswagon with reco twincarb twinport motor.Looks like a good buy.......Oh, thats right; its mine !
Look up subaru ea81 to find it. Finishes next Tuesday.!

Thanks for the info. I'm replacing the rear wheel cylinders. With this vacuum type system, could I just bleed the rear cylinders or is it necessary to do it the usual way from shortest line to longest line ?

Thanks Alpine Raven and Baron Von Chicken Pants. Seems simple and foolproof. How effective is it ? I'll make one today !

I would like a copy of the diagram that goes with "The Barons" vacuum system brake bleeder.
It doesn't come up in the original thread anymore. It consists of a squeeze bottle and some aquarium tubing and t pieces. Can anyone supply the diagram please.

Speaking to a mechanic friend a few years ago he told me that the best way to bleed hydraulic lines like brakes and clutches was to use a vacuum, apparently pumping the peddle can cause all sorts of damage to your brake booster diaphram and possibly the piston and bore of your master cylinders, and...

Mine went a little while back. Not much lead up to it failing; just a couple of loss of power incidents after which it would start again. Then total no spark. The numbers on mine, E12-61 embossed in the plastic housing and 2Z15 in stenciled white paint. Why all the other crazy symptoms with yours ????

Its a hard one to put a price on. I'm thinking of putting it all on Ebay starting at $1500 and see what comes of it. The guy who did the engine reco says he has had people willing to pay $2000 for his similar engine alone but he won't part with it. Honestly, I am feeling my way at this stage.