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Are you sure you have the right wires from the high beam? Its negatively switched remember so current goes from common power through light to separate high/low beam earths. You have to run 85 on the relay from the high beam wire (earthed remember); 86 to your dash switch to ignition; 30 to a fuse fr...

Haha, yeah both stock

Both looking good but that hatch...

You earth it to a good earth point on the chassis. You'll see a heap of them around the engine bay, just undo one, clean it up a bit and add your own.

low beam is yellow/red is
High beam is red/black (RHS) & red (LHS)
common power is blue/white (RHS) & red/ble (LHS)

Remember the high & low beam wires are earth wires & the common wire is battery

Interesting, a tricky one to narrow down as I was the same as others thinking it was a pedal switch

Got the Gates tbelt kit TCKWPT254, same as this but with a belt guide clearance tool: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/191080119...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT And this clutch kit, which has clutch plate, pressure plate, spigot & thrust bearings & possibly alignment tool: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221617862...%3AMEBID...

Thanks but I would prefer to use a genuine or Gates timing belt. The one I posted is only $311 delivered so pretty cheap. So I think I'll go with that. The big issue I'm having is what clutch kit to get....

As I need to do the water pump anyway & I dont know if the pulleys were done, plus I'm not 100% certain the Tbelt was done either (the guy said it "looked" like it was), I might do a Tbelt kit. What do you think of this one: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SUBARU-LI...item2c7d433ebf It says turbo, but so...

GOD, I notice you have had a range of engines in your L series..."1993 EA82/EJ18/EJ22/EJ22/EJ20/EJ22 L Series perpetual project"

Which EJ22s did you have & how did you find them?

Yes GOD, there'll probably be some differences that I'll just have to work through.

Thanks Taza, I've updated the list in the opening post.

Where did you get sensors from? I want to do the O2 sensor as well...and I know they can be expensive!!!

Rear Trailing arm spacer (new design): https://farm1.staticflickr.com/527/19688692579_9ffc77f7fb_c.jpg Spacer fitted to front strut: https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/434/18565712168_7cc2292f7c_c.jpg Strut To Spacer, Front Spacer fitted to rear strut: https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/465/18567322079_f1554c...

Oops, haven't been up to date here lol :oops: Do you do a full body lift or just the strut and rear control arm? I thought you did the whole lift block set. Yes :wink: I can do strut top & rear trailing arm kits as well as bull body kits https://farm1.staticflickr.com/518/19849174076_804003672c_c.jp...

OK, so Ive found a low km EJ22 to swap into my SF Forester. Now comes finding various bits I need to make the swap go smoothly & successfully http://offroadsubarus.com/images/smilies/icon_mrgreen.gif It already has a new timing belt (apparently) but I want to do the water pump as well. Also valve co...

According to Wikipedia, phase I is '86-'96, phase II is '97-'99. Phase II has 10% more power and 3% more economy than phase I but what you're saying sounds right that phase I has more low down torque, which is what is best for offroad. Good news is I've found an engine with only 120k kms and just ha...

vincentvega wrote:so you would prefer an interference engine with less low down torque?

I thought the later phase II was higher compression so had more low down torque?

We drove UP Billy Goats...Alex did it pretty easy but I struggled, esp at one point on a drainage hump with big diagonal ruts. I have some editing to do for a good video...

Yeah shame we missed bumping into each other

Phase I engines are non interference, phase II are interference.

I'm really after a phase II but thanks anyway

Glad to hear it, well done Steptoe!

Good, point, what fluids did you use?

Thanks guys. Yeah, Ive heard of using pepper for a bush remedy lol I ended up getting Goss Chemiweld. Instructions are very specific... System must be clean, ie, no scale. Flush all the coolant so straight water. Must keep the fins of the radiator fully covered or the Chemiweld will try to block the...