). hahahaha.. yeah.. just a quick change outEnchanter wrote:And there I was hoping for an easy fix, drop the sump and change the bigends sort deal lol
Im assuming splitting th block means a full rebuild then, heads off, machining etc
Is the H6 a common swap for these cars ? I do like the idea of a revvy 6cyl. Appart from tacho and exhaust and radiator (?) would there be any mismatches.
would have made my job a lot easier 
love them engines and because your model/year was available as a 6 in the Outback (and 3.0R I think) then it's pretty much a straight (haha lots of labour) swap over if you can find a 1/2 cut from Japan. That way you have everything you need i.e. dash, exhaust, power steering stuff, etc... The only place over here that may have one is Japanese Wholesale. Check their website but if you see nothing on there just email them as they have containers come in all the time and only update the website every now and then.Enchanter wrote:There is a good chance I will just rebuild but Iam searching for front cuts through the normal google search jap importers now
Anyone know of any H6 front cuts about the place ?
Will the H6 bolt up to my flywheel, 5 spd etc ? I dont want to go auto.
Sorry Bennie but not trueEl_Freddo wrote:As for the EJ25, from what I understand (having not pulled the EJ engine apart) you should be able to split the block without taking out the pistons/heads if you don't want to.
Cheers
Bennie
there are bolts that are inside the water jackets, that hold the block together. No worries I have seen one person replace the big end bearings without splitting the block but it looked as dodgie as Just the seal would be easy but the big end bearing would be a challenge. unless it was the spigot bearing they were changing.maxxair wrote:"I have seen one person replace the big end bearings without splitting the block"
I would love to know how. (not coz im dodgy or anything, just it may come in handy.lol)
Sounds like it mate.. How about a EJ25 Turbo from a 03 Foz? I got offered a whole car today for $7,000 complete but damaged (rolled) and was trying to think of what I should build??El_Freddo wrote:Ah yeah... I forgot about those little suckers. Shows how long its been since I've split a block. Might have to think up a new project
Cheers
Bennie
I'll need to explain with a picture but you'd remove the sump and slash tray then you can see all the Big End Bearings, not the mains as you need to split the block for them.maxxair wrote:"I have seen one person replace the big end bearings without splitting the block"
I would love to know how. (not coz im dodgy or anything, just it may come in handy.lol)
Not sure Tex what you mean the seal or spigot bearing as this is outside the engine and sandwiched between the block and gearbox? maybe you're not thinking of the same things??tex wrote:Just the seal would be easy but the big end bearing would be a challenge. unless it was the spigot bearing they were changing.
By the way if your going the H6 conversion Tons of labour involved I would imagine it could possibly involve changing the wiring loom behind the dash.
But if you have a manual I'd get a manual H6 to save having to cut out the transmission computer plus if you get something the same age hopefully it will all plug in and bolt up whats more you might get some good bits and sell off the rest!
Yes they all can be used again. Only the Head Bolts are stretch bolts and are recomended to be changed. If they look in good condition and the engine hasn't overheated then I use them without any issues.Enchanter wrote:The engine is now out and appart. I can see how 3 of the bigend bearings could be done without splitting the block, it would be fiddly but doable, however bigend number 1 is under a major oil passage and not accessable. It just happened that only #1 was dead.... so the block is split.
The oil rings, obviously the cause of the initial problems are useless, flush with the piston and full of crap so they were doing nothing at all. Compression rings were fine.
One question I now have is regarding the stretch bolts for the head, block (mains), bigends and the flywheel. I cant find the stretch specs for these so I dont know if I can use them again or not ?? Anyone know if there should still be life in them ?
Yes it is common but there usually is an issue with the clutch to cause this. I'd recommend you have the pressure plate tested and repaired if required. Also found that welding a small piece if flat bar across the top of the 'hump' will give it some better support and lots of anti-seize the pivot point before reassembling will reduce it cracking again.Enchanter wrote:Oh one more interesting discovery, the clutch fork is badly cracked around the pivoting point !!
I would say there is very little life left in it. Is this a known or common problem ?
I will weld it up so its an easy fix, lucky find or unlucky to happen in the first place.... I will go with luck find
