f*&ked clutch or just clutch cable

Creamfeeder · Post by **Creamfeeder** » Sun Apr 18, 2010 3:17 pm

Hi guys, I m having issues with the brumby. the clutch doesnt disengage when i push down the clutch pedal. I have noticed that recently it has been taking more action on the pedal to get it to disengage, so I have been tightening the clutch cable adjustment screws to compensate. Now however, it just doesnt disengage at all, and I have to use more force to get the pedal to the floor. Is this a clutch cable issue, or is my clutch just had it? If it is a cable have any of you guys got one to sell me or some info as to where to get one? Being carless sucks balls!!!:mad:

Kappage · Post by **Kappage** » Sun Apr 18, 2010 3:26 pm

Hey, im not exactly sure on how the clutch ona brumby works but, check where it pulls through the firewall it could be ripping a ring around the bracket, we had this with an EA falcon that had the same problems you are having.

Creamfeeder · Post by **Creamfeeder** » Sun Apr 18, 2010 3:43 pm

thanks for the tip! I will definitely check into this, but I think the cable actually travels through a piece of conduit through the firewall.. I will still check though as if thats all it is, thatd be awesome!!

Post by **yarney** » Sun Apr 18, 2010 4:50 pm

Sounds like the clutch fork worn on the ball you need to take out the gearbox to see or replace it

Jan

rubisubi · Post by **rubisubi** » Sun Apr 18, 2010 6:39 pm

I had a similar problem, it may be the pedal box, they are a weak design and when you push the clutch in the whole box flexes. You may need to take it out and weld on some stiffener bars.

gtcompletepower · Post by **gtcompletepower** » Sun Apr 18, 2010 8:26 pm

check the pedal box i had same problem about 3 months ago

Callum89 · Post by **Callum89** » Sun Apr 18, 2010 8:51 pm

pedal box on a brumby?

gtcompletepower · Post by **gtcompletepower** » Sun Apr 18, 2010 9:45 pm

where the clutch cable outer is held inside the vehicle left hand side of steering column thre is a mounting point where the weld breaks or the point it is welded to collapses due to metal fatigue

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Sun Apr 18, 2010 10:37 pm

Are you able to stall in 4th gear? If u can then the clutch is ok, problem will be somewhere, I would start looking at clutch cable, Pedel box, clutch fork.. Is there any weird noises? (ie grinding or squel?)
cheers
AP

sven '2' · Post by **sven '2'** » Sun Apr 18, 2010 10:37 pm

+1 on pedal box - common weakness

start here as is cheap/easy - if problem persists your clutch is done = remove the box as suggested

Sven

Creamfeeder · Post by **Creamfeeder** » Mon Apr 19, 2010 6:09 pm

thanks for all the info, guys. will look into it soon. How easy is it to get e clutch box, none of the spares stores here have ANY brumby or old subie parts. Very annoying?

Creamfeeder · Post by **Creamfeeder** » Mon Apr 19, 2010 6:10 pm

oh yeah and stalling is not a problem whatsoever!! and yeah nasty grinding noises but only when changing gear, funnily enough.

Battlewagon · Post by **Battlewagon** » Mon Apr 19, 2010 6:43 pm

If you can stall it, then your clutch is OK.
The nasty grinding noises sound like a collapsed thrust race bearing.

sven '2' · Post by **sven '2'** » Mon Apr 19, 2010 7:08 pm

Creamfeeder wrote:thanks for all the info, guys. will look into it soon. How easy is it to get e clutch box, none of the spares stores here have ANY brumby or old subie parts. Very annoying?

Very common - try here? vbclassified.php?do=ad&id=880

Better to weld yours adding a bit of flatbar for good measure

Sven

rubisubi · Post by **rubisubi** » Tue Apr 20, 2010 9:14 am

Hey matey, the reason the gears are crunching is because the pedal box is flexing, so when the clutch is pressed the box bends and the clutch plate doesnt even move. Think of it as trying to change gears without even using the clutch. I found that out the hard way one night on a club run. I took mine out and just got some guys to weld it up for me.

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Tue Apr 20, 2010 9:30 am

Yep.. pedal box and cable are most likely very worn for many years of use. I'd start with these before pulling the clutch out, a lot less work

DavesB4 · Post by **DavesB4** » Tue Apr 20, 2010 6:09 pm

We just this past week replaced the Clutch fork on our Vortex for exactly the same reason. Cable was adjusted several times until nothing left. The fork had suffered severe metal fatigue and was about to disintegrate.

Get a torch and look down the hole in the bell housing while someone else presses the clutch. You will see if it wants to split and climb over the ball pivot.

Gearbox out to replace I am afraid.

kevmif · Post by **kevmif** » Wed Apr 28, 2010 7:57 pm

Hi all - my clutch has also stopped working properly, looks like the cable has started to snap. Are new cables easy to get? Had a lot of trouble with spare parts places ordering me wrong parts in the past. Its an 84 Brumby.

Thanks

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Wed Apr 28, 2010 9:20 pm

I have a very good secondhand one if you like?

robo · Post by **robo** » Wed Apr 28, 2010 9:31 pm

Heya
Dont want to hijack this thread but when i release the clutch on my wagon the car sometimes shudders particularly on slope, what could that be, it also makes a tink noise when engaging clutch.

cheers
robo