Head bolt torque sequence

Libsta · Post by **Libsta** » Fri Dec 03, 2010 4:51 pm

Hey guys,
Wondering if anyone has a diagram for the Head bolt sequence for ej22?
Like which bolt is number 1 and 2 etc?
I have the torque specs just need bolt sequence
cheers

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Fri Dec 03, 2010 5:07 pm

No diagram off hand but I know #1 & #2 bolts are the 2 centre bolts.. the others are (when looking at the rocker gear) top left = #3, bottom right = #4 bottom left = #5 and top right = #6

Really doesn't matter to much the numbers 3 to 6 as long as you tighten them in a diagonal pattern

Most times when you buy a top set they will give you the sequence and tensions.

Libsta · Post by **Libsta** » Fri Dec 03, 2010 5:34 pm

ah nice.. well i think that helps

#1 and #2... would #1 be the left side looking at it?

Post by **TOONGA** » Fri Dec 03, 2010 5:45 pm

here you are Bob
INSTALLATION
1) Install the cylinder head and gaskets on cylinder
block.
CAUTION:
Use new cylinder head gaskets.
Be careful not to scratch the mating surface
of cylinder block and cylinder head.
2) Tighten the cylinder head bolts.
(1) Apply a coat of engine oil to washers and
bolt threads.
(2) Tighten all bolts to 29 N.m (3.0 kgf-m, 22 ft-
Ib) in alphabetical sequence.
Then tighten all bolts to 69 N.m (7.0 kgf-m, 51 ft-
Ib) in alphabetical sequence.
(3) Back off all bolts by 180" first; back them off
by 180" again.
(4) Tighten the bolts (a) and (b) to 34 N-m (3.5
kgf-m, 25 ft-lb).
(5) Tighten the bolts (c), (d), (e) and (f) to 15
N.m (1.5 kgf-m, 11 ft-lb).
(6) Tighten all bolts by 80 to 90" in alphabetical
sequence.
CAUTION:
Do not tighten the bolts more than 90".
(7) Further tighten all bolts by 80 to 90" in alphabetical
sequence shown below.

CAUTION:
Ensure the total "re-tightening angle" [in the
former two steps], do not exceed 180".

from this thread showthread.php?t=18311&highlight=head+bolts

this is the same as ej22 fsm

TOONGA

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Fri Dec 03, 2010 5:50 pm

Libsta wrote:ah nice.. well i think that helps
#1 and #2... would #1 be the left side looking at it?

# 1 and # 2 are the 2 centre bolts on either head. 6 bolts on either head.

Great find there Jules

just remember some aftermarket head gaskets have different torque settings.

Libsta · Post by **Libsta** » Fri Dec 03, 2010 6:15 pm

Ah... very nice toonga

that helps me heaps
cheers guys.. hopefully i can finish this engine tonight

Libsta · Post by **Libsta** » Fri Dec 03, 2010 6:18 pm

Will i need to get a torque angle gauge? to do the angles?

Post by **TOONGA** » Fri Dec 03, 2010 10:59 pm

Libsta wrote:Will i need to get a torque angle gauge? to do the angles?

having seen the way the heads are torqued (the final stage)

eg Tighten all bolts by 80 to 90 degrees in alphabetical
sequence then Further tighten all bolts by 80 to 90" in alphabetical
sequence.

Im not sure how you would set the torque on the torque angle gauge

if that makes sense

TOONGA

tony · Post by **tony** » Sat Dec 04, 2010 12:00 am

generally you are safe to tighten using a circular pattern starting with the centre bolts/nuts and working out. Obviously you can't always go in a circle but you get the idea.

3 1 5

4 2 6

also don't tighten to full torque straight away, do it in about 3 steps, i.e. 20 foot pound /35 ft pd / 43 ft pd. (assuming you want to end up with 43 ft pd.)(or whatever the newtons is).

When undoing the head bolts it is also a good idea to work in reverse to tightening, crack each bolt a fraction in sequence then go back and finish undoing them.

The important thing is not so much the tightness or torque of the bolt, obviously it is important, but mostly you must have the torque/tension equal on all of them.

generally if the bolt works in an oily situation you oil the threads, if in a dry situation you only very lightly oil the thread, if the threads are oiled when they should not be you risk overtightening and breakage.
you cannot reuse tighten to torque angle bolts because they have already been tightened to just before breaking point, reusing them risks breakage. These type of bolts are a wonderful little earner for the manufacturers every time the head comes off the bolts have to be replaced. In the future I can see certain bolts being no longer manufactured because the cars are obsolete so making it difficult to keep the cars on the road. The old style bolts are never done up to anywhere near their breaking point. the threads on the new bolts are different to the older type, having a rounded edge, the older type have a sharp edge, so the threads are incompatible.

usaully the gasket packet has an explanation of this.