1999 Outback

Levy · Post by **Levy** » Wed Apr 13, 2011 5:41 pm

Hi guys, have settled on getting an outback, was thinking late 90's model, saw this one. It's on the sunny coast, my folks live just up the road. Dad's gonna go check it out for me on the weekend. Just wondering if there's anything in particular he should be looking at/for with this model. Any advice would be appreciated, cheers!

http://www.carpoint.com.au/all-cars/pri ... E7CF98A861

Read that head gaskets might be an issue..?

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Thu Apr 14, 2011 1:29 am

Very good price for that Outback

Generally haven't seen that model with head gasket problems as these are the SOHC model and it's usually the DOHC EJ25s in the Gen2 Liberty/Outbacks that had the problems. In the model you're interested in there's only a couple of things that I've seen to be a problem and that's the Auto trans not shifting correctly and the rocker cover seals around the spark plug holes leaking inside (noticable only when changing spark plugs).

Let us know if you buy it

Levy · Post by **Levy** » Mon Apr 18, 2011 12:51 am

Heading down tuesday, inside of this one runs well but the interior is shabby so my old man says. Will look at a couple more while down there. Will definitely be driving one home.

Levy · Post by **Levy** » Wed Apr 20, 2011 7:30 pm

Bought this today! $5600.. interior isn't as bad as first thought. Seems to drive well, but front steering seems to shudder a bit, thinking bearings; though has just had it's steering bar replaced and seller said the mechanic said a wheel alignment would correct it? Suspension seems a little non-existent. Also has a slight knock in the back cv joint and a headlight out, pretty sure i can iron out those issues. I'm just stoked that mechanically she's sweet!

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Thu Apr 21, 2011 8:56 am

Great to hear and you got yourself a bargain there

I'd swap the front and rear tyres over and see if the wobbles change? also while you've got the front wheels up, check the bearings (by trying to rock the wheels), also steering and ball joints.

Any plans for a lift kit? or any other mods?

Levy · Post by **Levy** » Thu Apr 21, 2011 2:10 pm

Took her for a big drive just now.. got her up round 140 no worries, engine is beautiful. I doubt there's any issue with the bearings, think it just needs an alignment, gets a bit of a wobble only when braking down from higher speed. Back cv joints are in need of work (i think that's the problem?), there's a bit of a 'dunk' when reversing, and need to give it a bit of a rev to get it moving forwards afterwards. Other than that all minor things to tidy up.

Definitely gonna put a lift kit on her down the track, haven't really thought too much about other mods as yet. Gonna give her a nice big service first.

Post by **Alex** » Thu Apr 21, 2011 2:21 pm

that is ****ing cheap.

10grand car easy.

alex

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Thu Apr 21, 2011 3:11 pm

Levy wrote:Took her for a big drive just now.. got her up round 140 no worries, engine is beautiful. I doubt there's any issue with the bearings, think it just needs an alignment, gets a bit of a wobble only when braking down from higher speed. Back cv joints are in need of work (i think that's the problem?), there's a bit of a 'dunk' when reversing, and need to give it a bit of a rev to get it moving forwards afterwards. Other than that all minor things to tidy up.

Definitely gonna put a lift kit on her down the track, haven't really thought too much about other mods as yet. Gonna give her a nice big service first.

Sounds like front rotors may need a skim

and the dunk could be a gearbox mount or centre diff??

rebuilder · Post by **rebuilder** » Thu Apr 21, 2011 6:54 pm

i garuantee you, if take off ur front disc rotors, they will be warped.
Now, when ppl hear warped and think about the vibration, they think warped means bent on one side and not the other, this is not true. Warped means, the centre of the disc has been pushed into itself, basicly coning the disc, which caauses the outside of the disc fto have to shrivel up in order for the same amount of steel to be present.
Change them over, new ones will cost 140 all up and it improves driving. The previous owner probably sold the thing beacuse the person who sold them the new steering rack told them it would fix the problem with their steering wheel alignement never satyign quite right.
What they didnt know, was that the vibration caused by the warped bearings, caused the steering rack rubber bush mounts to detirorate, allowing the entirre rack to slip left and right, causing an apparent unfixable steering wheel alignment issue.
Jokes on them, you got the car, and have ppl like us to talk to and get advice from!
Do yourself a favour, check the back of the car after about a week, for little splats of black oil, almost as if a dodgy black spray can had been sprayed near the exhaust. If u find this, stop everything, and do a compression test on all 4 cylinders, or have a garage do it, no matter how much it costs. if they find that one or 2 of the cylinders arent quite right, get rid of it pronto!