sick lx liberty

Super ruby · Post by **Super ruby** » Fri Jun 24, 2011 2:21 am

thanks bennie i`ll look into getting a pressure tester and get back to you..

well the coolant question is a beauty cause i have never been able to put in more than half a litre , or a litre at max a day after letting the whole thing cool and rest. when it heats up and spews out i doubt i can replace the water that has been lost or at best the similar amount , i assume thats the gasket creating that effect but i will make the effort and do a compression test..
cheers mate

Super ruby · Post by **Super ruby** » Mon Jun 27, 2011 5:43 pm

i took the car for a run with radiator cap off and the temp fine . pulled up and topped it up using top radiator hose instead of rad filler hole, left it idle for nearly 40 minutes the thermo fans remain on and water keeps bubbling and pushing out radiator , so refilled it using the top left radiator hose , took almost 2 litres, did everything back up put radiator cap back on and sat in car accelerated to 2-3 thou revs , she got hot and approaching boiling point in about 5 minutes , turned it off and had a look under bonnet , the hoses where pressurised but the amazing thing was that the radiator cores where cold!.. what the @#$#! and yes there was plenty water in the system... oh yes and the heater now blows hot air so the water seems to be circulating.. thx

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Mon Jun 27, 2011 11:37 pm

Well it could now be two, maybe three things:

1) blocked radiator - pull the rad out and take it to a radiator place to have it rodded, it should cost about $130 to have this done. Ray at Bendigo Radiators
9a Adam Street, Bendigo VIC 3550
(03) 5443 8890 ‎(courtesy of Google maps)

2) The thermostat is dodgy or the water pump is dead/on its way out in which case you'll never get all the air out of the system.

3) worst scenario is a dud head gasket - but this wouldn't explain why the radiator is still cool.

Cheers

Bennie

Super ruby · Post by **Super ruby** » Tue Jun 28, 2011 3:45 pm

.thx bennie , i`ll start with the radiator .. When i have sorted i will update .. i very much appreciate your effort mate.. cheers

Post by **Alex** » Tue Jun 28, 2011 4:38 pm

perhaps chemiweld has been used incorrectly with this car before you owned it.

It may have been using water and they assumed it to be a head gasket leak, putting chemiweld in and not doing it properly and now the radiator is blocked up with chemiweld. Could be more than one issue happening here.

just my out there thoughts tho.

alex

Super ruby · Post by **Super ruby** » Tue Jun 28, 2011 4:54 pm

yeah who knows Alex..but just quickly, i just took for a drive to ray radiator but it was getting late and the darn thing wasnt overheating , i mean i could here whistling of water thru the heater core when i accelerate but no overheated engine!! so kept driving , decided to drop in see ray from radiator later in the week ,so just kept driving got back popped the hood and thought ok i`ll take cap off see the turbulence, 'nothing' , the water hot and steady , no thermos running no pressure had built up so whilst running i accelerated to 3 or so revs and water come out 6 inches high, .. car runnung as i type , iam thinking fare to say head gasket or u reckon this still part of bleeding the air??.. i gotta go, going to take the liberty for couple hours, back later...cheers

Super ruby · Post by **Super ruby** » Tue Jun 28, 2011 8:35 pm

Alex, yep for all the peculiar symptoms i reckon your right! the hose i removed was leaking constantly and having been driven round by tourists a quick fix of chemiweld is probably the reason for the strange going ons... i just drove it to melbourne and the temp gauge did not move, i checked the temp by touch and all seemed very normal. i still think the gasket or heads may have been doctored by chemi or the like but on the bright side i just hope it keeps going until iam more ready to give it a complete going over... i will continue to bleed the air daily and see how it goes in a couple days, iam more concerned about the whirling noise in the heater core i hear when i accelerate , i hope the complete bleeding will get rid of this.. keep you posted ...thx

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Tue Jun 28, 2011 11:40 pm

I just hope we get you there soon!

That whirling noise in the heater, I don't know if its that same as the L's but when you had the heater hoses connected the wrong way around it would make a gurgling kind of noise when you hit the throttle. Maybe try the heater hoses the other way around if you can make it fit, if it won't do it I'd say they're the right way around.

As for the bleeding - when you went to take it to rays and it wouldn't overheat - then you took the cap off and revved it and the coolant came out right? I don't think this is a sign of a head gasket, just that the coolant goes to the point of least resistance when trying to be pressurised, thus the rush out of the top of the cap when it was removed...

I hope it comes up ok. Monitor the coolant bottle level for the week, don't keep taking the cap off unless it's stone cold. It could prove to have just been a bleeding issue in the end.

Cheers

Bennie

Super ruby · Post by **Super ruby** » Wed Jun 29, 2011 12:47 am

Thanks bennie, i understand mate , its been like a soap opera sorry to have made you the director, i too would have rathered a western.
iam desperate not to be ripped off by some who wouldtake advantage of those who are not well informed, more power to you mate , not only for your knowledge but for your patience! it says lots buddy..
anyways enough with the nicities eh... i will change the heater hoses around and an see if makes diff..

"As for the bleeding - when you went to take it to rays and it wouldn't overheat - then you took the cap off and revved it and the coolant came out right?..."

Yes thats exactly how it happened. as you say i`ll monitor the overflow bottle for a week and see how it goes, yes mate i hope it was a bleeding issue tho i would never say simply a bleeding issue, unbelievable that an air block could cause so much drama! also i havent got coolant in there just water, i frightened shitless to drain and refill with coolant particularly now that things seem ok..BAAAA as zachary smith would say... and yes unfortunately there will be an update in about a week or so... cheers and thanks heaps..

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Wed Jun 29, 2011 1:43 am

When its been running fine for a week I'd suggest putting the liberty on the ramps, drain out some coolant and add some concentrate such as Techatalloy (something like that - its what my family use and our local parts store recommends too) Gold or if headed into really cold areas use the anti freeze/anti boil concentrate.

Add to the concentrate to the cooling system once you've drained *SOME* of the water out from the bottom of the radiator - there will be a tap on the driver's side that will help with this.

Once the concentrate is in, replace the rad cap and run the car until the thermos come on. Once they're on check that the lower radiator hose is warm/hot. Rev the engine to help the coolant move through the system - even better go for a drive around town. The aim is to get the concentrate to mix with the water that's already in the system.

Water is not good for alloy blocks over time. Best to fix that sooner rather than later!

Cheers

Bennie

Super ruby · Post by **Super ruby** » Fri Jul 01, 2011 1:09 am

Thanks Bennie,

i`ll get some Techatalloy this weekend and do the job. So far so good eh. Doesn`t seem to be using much water , i have prob put some 500 ml total in the reserve bottle after having done some 500 klm and the temp seems to be holding

one thing iam wondering about is the thermo`s seem to run all the time, is this normal once the system is completely free of air.. the sound from heater core seems all but gone , i will swap the hoses this weekend to see if it makes any difference.. cheers mate.. p.s just wondering i`d like to take the underwear off my head but cant work out how to subscribe?

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Fri Jul 01, 2011 1:18 am

Hehehe... Ok for that you need to go to "User's CP" (control panel) and change your personal settings, these are just the default ones.

If the noise has gone from the heater I would leave it as is. 500km should see most of the system bleed 99.9% but it is still a good habit to check the coolant overflow bottle level at least once a week. It should end up stabilising - and be green once you've got coolant in the system.

Thermo's running all the time is typically a dead engine temp sensor - they're about $70 from memory and are a PITA to change but is do-able. If you're quick once you've got the old one loose you won't drop much coolant if you've got the new one in the other hand ready to go.

Cheers

Bennie

Super ruby · Post by **Super ruby** » Fri Jul 01, 2011 8:39 pm

ok hopefully the underwear is gone..

Iam pretty stoked if it turns out the head gasket is good eh.. thanks bennie..
i`ll take afew photo`s of something else i`ve found just next to the temp sensor which i assume is below the alternator , and yes mate that looks a bugger to get to .. i must say it has been a pleasure driving the liberty and i`ve got the base model, i cant imagine how good the rx wagons would be!
p.s and regards trecking all round the high country with a stock brumby, brand new 1980 model i did have a little help from some friends and all kinds of chains , but they were fun times ... bought it for i think around 7000 sold it 4 years later for 400.. irresponsible, yes! slowed down lots since then but now that the liberty is on the scene i may just start working on my Lseries.. i heard someone say in a post that since buying a nissan 4wd thast offraoding is almost to easy, well i beg to differ, horses for courses i think..

Super ruby · Post by **Super ruby** » Sat Jul 02, 2011 3:36 pm

just wondering what this wire with no apparent home is?[ATTACH]2781[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]2782[/ATTACH]

Post by **TOONGA** » Sat Jul 02, 2011 4:19 pm

sorry that is the oil pressure sender

the temperature sender is under the intake manifold on the drivers side on a cast aluminium pipe that runs from one side of the engine to the other.

where the arrow is pointing (my intake manifold is removed in this photo)

the other connector looks like a knock sensor or cam angle sensor connector

TOONGA

Super ruby · Post by **Super ruby** » Sat Jul 02, 2011 5:50 pm

thanks TOONGA! i`ve still got underwear on my head eh..))

Post by **TOONGA** » Sat Jul 02, 2011 5:57 pm

as long as it is girlies underwear thats ok

TOONGA

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sat Jul 02, 2011 5:57 pm

TOONGA wrote:the other connector looks like a knock sensor or cam angle sensor connector

I thought that these were longer so that they are connected and mounted near the bell housing...

Also I don't think the EJ will run without the cam angle or crank angle sensor connected.

^ This is the temp sensor for the ECU. It's located below/under the intake manifold on the driver's side on the coolant passage - you have to access it from the back of the engine to see/get at it. You'll most likely have to remove some of the PCV pipework (crank ventilation system) to access the temp sensor.

The temp gauge sensor is also in that area, this gauge has just one wire similar to the wire that mounts to the oil warning light sender unit in the pics you've given us.
The ECU's temp gauge sensor has two wires and I think a brown plug as per the pic above.

^ The sensors will be under all of this - I don't have a photo to show exactly where they are, but if you compare this complete engine to the pic of Toonga's intake-less engine you should be able to work out where it is

Nice looking Liberty! A set of fleabay special rims will set your subi off like my mate's one I knocked out before easter this year:

$250 later:

^ We couldn't get 4 new tyres for the price of these rims/tyres

And it sets the subi off:

Cheers

Bennie

Super ruby · Post by **Super ruby** » Sat Jul 02, 2011 6:53 pm

Awsome iam gonna get me some of them for sure... damn that sensor has gotta to be done when iam off the red eh! thanks for getting me this far everyone, i will be replacing water with coolant tomorrow... cheers all thx heaps Bennie..

Super ruby · Post by **Super ruby** » Sat Jul 02, 2011 6:58 pm

This underwear on my head aint helping my incontinence any, what more can i do!

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