Lights, globes, driving lights etc.

[purp]

...the 08 Civic has completely a completely clear lens, like found on pencil beam set ups
while the 93 Subaru has a plastic bumpy pattern like found on a broad beam set up.

Doing some random reading on HID's and the wiki article suggests that clear lenses are one of the things that lights which come HID from the factory must have. Something to do with glare of the glass...

[2nd Hand Yank]

No! You cannot use auxiliary lights with your low beams - the only exception to this is FOG lights (55W yellow lights) that should only be used during times of foggy condition.

Even if I mount them under the bumper?
I've seen a lot of utes that run low beams and some type of round light underneath.
I was thinking it' be nice to mount them below, and point them either level,
or focused to terminate maybe 100m ahead
(much higher angle, but low point of origin)

In Australia there's really no need for them - well, I can't justify them as I'd probably use them 3 times a year for about 5 minutes each time... We're not in europe!

Especially in WA.
I don't think I've seen more than 6 hours of fog since I landed in Oz this February.

55W driving lights are a waste of time!

If 55W lights under the front bumper are a bad idea then I won't add them. I
I'd rather add stuff that will improve resale value... or at least ease to resell.

I wouldn't look at anything less than 100watts. I've got 130W globes in my driving lights - an amazing difference that 30W makes!

Where did you find the 130W globes?
Is that enough current draw that you can feel engine lose some power?
I can feel my air-con turn on.

(maybe I should look at a more efficient condensor?)

I'm not entirely sure about that. I know a better reflector and glass design gives you better distance - but each light is built (generally) for a purpose so you can choose a light setup that best meets your needs. Most of the time the more expensive light means more time in developing the lens and housing for the best light output for a certain type of globe.

Cheers

Bennie

thanks bennie

[2nd Hand Yank]

Doing some random reading on HID's and the wiki article suggests that clear lenses are one of the things that lights which come HID from the factory must have. Something to do with glare of the glass...

I think because it's so intense and it's more glare-prone.
Halogen bulbs make less glare at the same light output, I heard somewhere...

My Civic had halogen lights though.

[El_Freddo]

130W globes should be found at your local parts joint, I'm pretty sure that's where I got mine. I need a replacement too - I found one of my globes burnt out last time I was working on the car (globe was black = dead).

Those round lights under the bumper are factory fog lights. They're a marketing thing and technically shouldn't be used if there isn't any fog around - but seriously, no one polices lights anyway until it comes to a roadworthy then they will pick up on obvious things.

With an EA82 you'll always feel the AC drain the engine - pretty much all cars will do a slight rev drop as the compressor kicks in as the compressor takes a lot of power to turn.

As for my lights - three 130W globes plus the stock headlights is quite a load - you can hear the alternator work hard at idle when you flick the highs on. Definitely don't run them without the engine idling. When above idle there's no issue.

Driving lights are best mounted as high as possible but below eye level so you're looking into the light from above the source and so that the lights housings don't obscure your view of the road. Looking into the light from above is the only way to setup your lights for road use as you won't blind people over a slight hill as you'll see them at about the same time they see you - a set of roof mounted lights might be just high enough to see over the hill and blind the on coming car before you know they're there...

Cheers

Bennie

[Alex]

yes 130w halogen globes in spotties are great. Have a look in 'malz' they sell all the nice narva 130watt spot light globes. Theyre usually a h3 size. Dont get sucked into the crappy cheap chinese blue halogen globes they sell. They dont throw light like the narvas (i learnt this)

this was my very first setup



then this was my setup for a while..those are small narva driving lights and they made a nice difference, especially offroad.



then i went like this



then i went stupid (note all the realys required in the top right of my engine bay)

[2nd Hand Yank]

Those round lights under the bumper are factory fog lights. They're a marketing thing and technically shouldn't be used if there isn't any fog around - but seriously, no one polices lights anyway until it comes to a roadworthy then they will pick up on obvious things.

So 55W's mounted low, angled slightly higher (yet lower than perfect horizontal) with low beams is not a good idea?

I ask because I've seen some show-pony utes (:D) around here that have very bright "fog" lights to go with their low beams... perhaps brighter than their low beam lights.

With an EA82 you'll always feel the AC drain the engine - pretty much all cars will do a slight rev drop as the compressor kicks in as the compressor takes a lot of power to turn.

Reminds me. Are there any better designed compressors?
Ideally, less load + more power, bur equal power with lesser load would be good too.

As for my lights - three 130W globes plus the stock headlights is quite a load - you can hear the alternator work hard at idle when you flick the highs on. Definitely don't run them without the engine idling. When above idle there's no issue.

Sounds like the cars that run extreme sound systems. 130 x 3 = 390 W

Driving lights are best mounted as high as possible but below eye level so you're looking into the light from above the source and so that the lights housings don't obscure your view of the road. Looking into the light from above is the only way to setup your lights for road use as you won't blind people over a slight hill as you'll see them at about the same time they see you - a set of roof mounted lights might be just high enough to see over the hill and blind the on coming car before you know they're there...

Cheers

Bennie

Source? You mean a source of reflection, whether that be a lump in the road, a curb etc?

Roof rack. Reminds me.

I think I might like to put a reflective strip on the front and rear edges of my roof rack for visiblity. If I can find something. Silver wouldn't be a bad reflector colour imho. That way someone can see you sooner when you're going up-and-down hilly country roads.

Have you ever tried mounting lights higher than the bonnet line?

You prefer them as high as you can without going above the bonnet?

[2nd Hand Yank]

yes 130w halogen globes in spotties are great. Have a look in 'malz' they sell all the nice narva 130watt spot light globes. Theyre usually a h3 size. Dont get sucked into the crappy cheap chinese blue halogen globes they sell. They dont throw light like the narvas (i learnt this)

this was my very first setup



then this was my setup for a while..those are small narva driving lights and they made a nice difference, especially offroad.



then i went like this



then i went stupid (note all the realys required in the top right of my engine bay)

From your 2nd photo onwards
What kind of tyres are you running? They look sick-as mate!

Nice body condition too.
I have some minor blistering at spots around mine that the red paint is good at hiding.

Crazy setup?
What's that combos of pencil and broad beams?
Did you have some angled off-centre for better beam coverage?
What was your motivation on that?

Noted. Narva globes far better than cheap chinese globes.

[El_Freddo]

So 55W's mounted low, angled slightly higher (yet lower than perfect horizontal) with low beams is not a good idea?

You can if you want, but personally I think it's a waste of time and money.

I ask because I've seen some show-pony utes (:D) around here that have very bright "fog" lights to go with their low beams... perhaps brighter than their low beam lights.

That's because those lights come from the factory and most Aussies think it's cool to use them any time of day not realising that they're actually used for fog conditions even though they're white.

Are there any better designed compressors?
Ideally, less load + more power, bur equal power with lesser load would be good too.

Probably not - at least not that I know of. And it would be a complete head #%$# to get it sorted and work properly.

Source? You mean a source of reflection, whether that be a lump in the road, a curb etc?

No, light source as in where your auxiliary/driving lights are mounted. Legally mounted lights are mounted below the height of your vision so that you're always looking into the beam from behind and above the source (your lights).

Have you ever tried mounting lights higher than the bonnet line?

No, but I'm considering mounting some on the bonnet for shits and giggles so long as the units I use don't obscure my view as a driver...

Cheers

Bennie

[2nd Hand Yank]

Supercheap auto has their own 100W driving light set for a fair price, less than $100.

Which would be better?

I'm thinking Supercheap's and purchasing some 130W globes might give more light output,
but I'm not sure if it's a bargain... more headaches on install,

or reliability issues?
Corrosion issues?

[Alex]

no! they will corrode, but the main deal with spot lights is the reflector. These are far inferior and just dont throw light like more expensive brands.

If youre working with a budget tho, i cant see any harm in giving them a shot

[2nd Hand Yank]

no! they will corrode, but the main deal with spot lights is the reflector. These are far inferior and just dont throw light like more expensive brands.

If youre working with a budget tho, i cant see any harm in giving them a shot

Thanks. I intend to do a lot of beach visits so fast corrosion rates would be a big downside.

Well I don't really need driving lights, it's just a comfort feature.
I can wait until I feel like paying for a reliable, more expensive set.

Which reminds me...
Every auto parts store carries 12V spotlights for prices much cheaper than driving lights.
Would anyone recommend a 12V spotlight?
I could make a passenger hold it if I need to see better.

[2nd Hand Yank]

I accidentally left my driver door not entirely closed for 1-1.5 hrs
and I wasn't worried as I thought the door open a crack will still keep the car dry.
I'll get up and close it when I'm good and ready...

Fast forward 1-2 days and my dome light will not turn on.
Removed the dome cover to reveal a 10W globe with a heavy white frosting/smoke on the inside.
The housing itself appears unharmed.
I swapped in the 3W globe I had in before.

I still think the 10W globe was a good idea,
just now I know to avoid leaving it on for long periods at all costs.

[pitrack_1]

Supercheap auto has their own 100W driving light set for a fair price, less than $100.

Which would be better?

I'm thinking Supercheap's and purchasing some 130W globes might give more light output,
but I'm not sure if it's a bargain... more headaches on install,

or reliability issues?
Corrosion issues?

Perhaps melting issues! Remember most of the power still goes into infrared light ("heat").

Think: plastic casings, probably plastic lensing and possibly even plastic backed reflectors. A bit of squidgy, smelly plastic and then the optics really won't be good

Good for a try, at least you won't do too much dough and you'll figure out what you want/need so you can, if you like, go and buy the correct better ones.

[2nd Hand Yank]

I took it to a 4x4 shop in town, just to see what they had. I asked what driving lights will fit and he said

"...None of them. I'd cut out that middle bar if I wanted to fit driving lights there, if I were you..."

Should I post another pic of my roobar so you can decide?
I think it's a custom aluminium piece.
The middle bar is actually behind the top bar,
so viewed on the side, the side profile of the bar is a bit like a banana.

I discovered "RooLites" and "Lightforce" are made at the same factory,
both are adjustable, but Lightforce costs more.

[2nd Hand Yank]

I measured the gap between my middle and top bar and it's about 11cm gap.
Thanks Bennie for showing me the Lightforce lights, but I think even the 140mm's are too big.

I did however see some driving lights that might work very well.
Narva's Ultra Compact 100W driving lights.
The package shows them as a slightly-broad beam extending 300m
which is just a little narrower spread and 50m shorter than Narva's 100W broad-beam 175mm kit.
Their housing is supposed to be thinner as well as narrower than their other rectangular lights
I see a set for a great price on Ebay.
Stores around Bunbury have them for a fair price; $135-155

[NachaLuva]

just HID every light on the car.

if your reflectors are okay and dont move around everywhere you will be fine.

HID spotlights are absolutely awesome.

HIDs are the best and WHEN USED CORRECTLY even if illegal are fine.

pretty unlucky for a cop to give you trouble over hids if theyre setup correctly.

i laugh at half the guys on here who convert their cars illegally, lift them illegally and then have a lil whinge about some lights being illegal. LOL

alex

Hahaha yeah that is a bit funny.

Good thing you guys dont live in the "police state"!!!
Here they WILL get ya

2nd Hand Yank, i have noticed your pretty keen on ugrading your lights...me too lol. I have some Cibie Super Oscars wth 130W bulbs. Havnt used em yet cos i know they will b flogged as soon as i put em on...bastards!!!

But seen em on friends cars...just ONE of these babies lights up the road more than both headlights, upgrades or not! im sure its a combination of really high quality reflector, glass & overall design.
Still seem to be most popular truck light.

Only prob is they are HUGE! Cibie, IPF, Narva, etc all make compact versions. Personally, i mite try sum rectangular lights iv seen on ebay...$49 incl 130W "super white" bulbs. Gonna have a look at em next week to see what kinda quality they are...dont want rubbish thats just gonna fall apart/rust/be generally crap. But still cant afford much either, lol

[Alex]

Good thing you guys dont live in the "police state"!!!
Here they WILL get ya

worst call ive heard for a long time.

[El_Freddo]

worst call ive heard for a long time.

It's true, they WILL get you for speeding... I've not been done for my lights though - just told about them...

We're not known as the nanny state for no reason - we've got more speed cameras than the rest of Australia put together!!

I think I'm going to have a stab at the wiring upgrade, shouldn't be hard to do then throw some better globes in there, a set of those Phillips extreme something or others will do I reckon.

Cheers

Bennie

[steptoe]

Good thing you guys dont live in the "police state"!!!
Here they WILL get ya

They got me twice in 55 minutes July 1986. Never been back to make it a trifecta!! And discretion of a police officer ....sheees , a workmate goes down to go for an interview to join them. Gets pulled over at 2am for speeding, radar detector on board, tellls what he is up to and is let off on one or two possible offences!!

[2nd Hand Yank]

I was thinking either go to a fabrication shop to get some custom brackets welded to the top bar,
or making a clamp out of bending a piece of sheet metal.

I think making my own clamp might not be very tight and the lights could move when I go over speedbumps.

The ultra-compacts look designed to hang down.

My roobar has a few areas of missing weld, as in one side of the middle beam is welded a bit differently than the other, when they look like they should be symmetrical.