Heater core replacement headaches!

indy · Post by **indy** » Wed Jan 11, 2012 11:31 am

So ive been trying to tackle alot of problems and mistreatment to my L series lately since im on uni holidays, ordered a heater core from the US about a month back and decided to have a go of doing it yesterday arvo.

After about an hour the dash was off, and infront of me was the heater box. Sweet i thought, now is the easy part..... well got to the heater core (in the midst i snapped a plastic vent flap (now in the process of araldite/glueing it back together) out comes the heater core. In the end of the plast tank is where its leaking...... one small problem, the heater core i got from america is DIFFERENT. now im stuck with spending $100 on a heater core that is too late to return/not worth returning and my car in pieces.
My fault for not researching enough/looking up what the outlets on the L series looks like, but i was assured by the ebay seller that it would fit my 88 Leone.

The heater core is a tad bit longer, which hopefully wont be too much of a problem. However the outlets as you can see in the first picture are obstructed. they need to be turned. this afternoon with the help of my old man we are going to attempt to put the core in a bucket of water up till the tank, and gently heat up the outlets and see if we can turn them around.. without destroying the tank....
Also the new tank isnt as tall as the other one, i was hoping that maybe i could stick some sort of foam on each side to make up the difference and fill the big gaps in the heater box, but not sure where i could get the foam that they use on the heater cores?

Im contemplating putting it all back and forgetting about the heater core if i can't make use of the one i have, but it just seems like a waste as i know its gonna be a pain putting the dash back in lol.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Wed Jan 11, 2012 12:32 pm

Easiest solution to me would be to take the new heater core and the heater box to a radiator joint and ask them to rotate the inlet and outlet pipes to where they need to be. Should cost at the highest end of the scale about $40.

As for the foam - clarke rubber is the go, they've got more rubber products than you can poke a stick at! I'm sure you'll find what you need there.

Cheers

Bennie

indy · Post by **indy** » Thu Jan 12, 2012 9:52 pm

el freddo thanks alot for the advice, i took it around to a radiator place that said itd be around $60, should be ready tommorrow, but im happy as i just want to get her back on the road. will try clark rubber tommorrow when i pick it up, thanks heaps!

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Jan 12, 2012 10:01 pm

indy wrote:el freddo thanks alot for the advice, i took it around to a radiator place that said itd be around $60, should be ready tommorrow, but im happy as i just want to get her back on the road. will try clark rubber tommorrow when i pick it up, thanks heaps!

Not a problem mate! It certainly makes things easier, especially knowing that it won't come back with a leak

All the best at Clark rubber - they're bound to have what you're after!

Cheers

Bennie

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Jan 13, 2012 8:30 am

I thought you were going to say your heater core was for LHD only but guessing the hoses and pipes are not going to change between LHD and RHD due to engines layout. I was gonna do a US brake master and worked out they are LHD specific ! Accelerator cables are longer too !

spike · Post by **spike** » Fri Jan 13, 2012 1:23 pm

speaking of heater cores, as ive destroyed two (the plastic cracks and dumps hot coolant over the driver or passengers feet, NOT FUN!!!) im going to make some with metal(undecided material) tanks

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Fri Jan 13, 2012 9:22 pm

spike wrote:speaking of heater cores, as ive destroyed two (the plastic cracks and dumps hot coolant over the driver or passengers feet, NOT FUN!!!) im going to make some with metal(undecided material) tanks

Yeah it should be easy to do if you've got the stuff for the end tanks. I purchased my last heater core as an all brass/copper unit, but it's still got the rubber hoses under the dash

But at least they're cheaper than a core! The all copper core was $220, money well spend IMO.

Cheers

Bennie

spike · Post by **spike** » Fri Jan 13, 2012 10:41 pm

didnt even know you could get them like that haha.
ive never had a core problem so will use a rodded second hand core, hoses are usually ok

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Fri Jan 13, 2012 10:59 pm

spike wrote:didnt even know you could get them like that haha.

Yeah they're available! I ordered one day, and had it installed three days later

The hoses maybe ok, but since freezing the block two years back I've had one of the joints weeping. Painful to get to just to tighten up a clamp!

Cheers

Bennie

spike · Post by **spike** » Fri Jan 13, 2012 11:04 pm

probs a cheaper option, but less fun.

i doubt ill ever have the frozen block problem haha

indy · Post by **indy** » Sun Jan 15, 2012 8:17 pm

Okay so outlets are turned, thats all good! the tank is too tall so had to make up a new vent for the hot/cold.
Went to clark rubber and got some offcuts, got some dense foam, the guy couldn't put me onto a really heat resistant foam. was just gonna slot in a piece either side of the core in the heater box. Do you guys think the foam will be okay, just worried about it catching on fire lol.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun Jan 15, 2012 8:35 pm

I highly doubt the foam will catch on fire - the heater core will only get as hot as the coolant. I highly doubt it will melt either!

The more you crush the foam, the more it will plug an air gap. It will do the job as it is and the majority of the air will pass through and not leak, if any leaks at all.

I hope that flap works out for you!

Cheers

Bennie

indy · Post by **indy** » Mon Jan 16, 2012 7:24 pm

started putting her back together, theres a few connectors where i cant find their other half, and unsure on the 3 main ones underneath the drivers side dash. theres 3x4 pin connectors. black blue and white. and underneath the dash theres 3x4pin outlets. but not colour coded. wish i labelled/took a mental photograph now lol.
also with the hot/cold on the heater box. is there only one adjustment cable that goes to it?
will keep plugging away tommorrow.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Mon Jan 16, 2012 8:38 pm

indy wrote:also with the hot/cold on the heater box. is there only one adjustment cable that goes to it?

Only one cable.

As for the plugs your'e confused with - you'll find a set that are wired together (from memory), these are the AC plugs that intercept the fan controls, I think. Anyway, you need these plugs to connect with the others otherwise you're AC won't work. You might have to trace some wires... fun fun!

Cheers

Bennie

GOD · Post by **GOD** » Mon Jan 16, 2012 9:27 pm

I reckon those plugs might be for the relays tucked up somewhere above the fuse panel. The relays (four on my car, maybe only three on yours) are all the same, so just plug any one of your mystery connectors into each of them.

In my experience, only the plugs that are meant to go together will go together.

Dane.

indy · Post by **indy** » Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:31 pm

Yep that's the one thanks heaps god! Just a couple of random connectors to go and the steering column the 2 little 10mm bolts down. near the base of the column I can't seem to line up with the holes, the shaft seems to need to go down a few mm

indy · Post by **indy** » Tue Jan 17, 2012 7:25 pm

Ahhh still stuck on those two 10mm bolts that go into the steering column shaft.

Any tricks on getting them to line up with the shaft?
also will they be okay (safety wise) to drive around town with them out? do they just hold the sleeve on the shaft or will they effect turning/steering if they are not in place?

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Thu Oct 04, 2012 8:18 am

Bringing this thread back from the dead, how do most cores fail? Is it the cote that rust/corrode or do the end tanks crack. If I can find a good core that had plastic tanks, could I get a radiator shop to braise brass tanks to?

Sent from my new touchy phone thingy

Smokey · Post by **Smokey** » Thu Oct 04, 2012 5:58 pm

Mine blew the pass end tank. Stressed plastic got brittle with age and heat I guess.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Fri Oct 05, 2012 5:08 pm

Gannon wrote:Bringing this thread back from the dead, how do most cores fail? Is it the cote that rust/corrode or do the end tanks crack. If I can find a good core that had plastic tanks, could I get a radiator shop to braise brass tanks to?

Most cores ultimately fail due to the plastic end tanks giving way. I've had them go on both ends.

You could get a radiator shop to braise on some brass end tanks, but you'd probably have to find a set. And any decent radiator shop will most likely find faults such as corrosion in the core, they wouldn't guarantee the longevity of the core. I lashed out on a new all brass copper core - $220, over night delivery to the shop. I've not looked back since

Cheers

Bennie