NOOB moding '09 Forester!

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Jerrad
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NOOB moding '09 Forester!

Post by Jerrad » Sun Jan 08, 2012 8:26 pm

G’day all!
I am new to the forums and new to this idea of moding. *I own a ’09 Forester XS and* I currently live in Hastings, Vic, Aus. *I would like to make my Forester more offroad capable. *I am really keen to get out and about and off the beaten track, offroading, camping, skiing, Mt biking, and go out on some trips with a club.
I THINK I have a rough idea what I’m doing. I would love some tips, advice, help choosing, products, contacts, expertise, etc. I have a budget for everything I’m thinking of doing and will try stick to it but I don’t want to compromise on quality so it may have to be done in several stages. *Also, I am keen to do it all myself to learn more and have that pride in it, I think I have the expertise but may need some help and need to buy extra tools. I am trying to stick to a budget of $5000... I’ve not done calculations yet ...
***************
The things I’m looking at doing is:-
The main thing I want to get done/do properly is a dual battery system under the bonnet. I have spoken to ARB and TJM and they say its not done without A LOT of work, if at all. I know there isn’t A LOT of room under there but it has to be able to be done. I dont really like the idea of a removable battery in the wagon area that takes up space and can move around in a crash or something. (cant leave radio on or lights or fridge on for camping)
Sump Guard - subaxtreme (general protection)
***Offroad Bullbar - subaxtreme (approach angle, collisions, lights, bushbash, tow points, etc)
***2"Suspension lift kit - Crossbred Performance (Blocks or springs or?)
***Air Compressor - ARB - CKMA12 (built in under hood for car and mt bike (ARB air lockers?))
***CB Radio - Prestige Communication - GME TX3100 bonus pack (do I need this?)
***Driving lights (I own an old set to start with)
Diff lock switch I’ve read about (cheap, need books and read more)
***Larger AT Wheels and tires (improve capability, 1 good set 1 rough set)
***Snorkle (river crossings, do I need straight away?)
***Like I’ve said I’m really new to this whole thing so I have no real idea what is best to do and what is “needed” so Im just trying to figure it all out from reading forums (not my strong point) and any advice you guys may give. I am more interested in touring and general offroad stuff, beach (stockton) and snow (real home Jindabyne), Im not really keen on rockcrawling.
***I am keen to try get most of it organised together and then do it in 1 big hit soonish... So if all goes well I’ll keep up the thread with the work and pics and then see you out and about shortly!
Anything from you guys would be greatly appreciated...even just moral support

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B00sting
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Post by B00sting » Sun Jan 08, 2012 9:29 pm

Hey mate,

I"m also new, still reading through all the information on this site! :D

I believe I can help you with a few easy questions though, and offer some general advice. 4WDing is not about nailing it through the bush at 80ks, its technical and often slow paced. If you understand some basics, such as traction, articulation and wheel placement you will have a much more enjoyable experience in the bush.

I would recommend 4wd training and 4wd recovery training for starters.
***CB Radio - Prestige Communication - GME TX3100 bonus pack (do I need this?)
A UHF radio is useful when travelling in a convoy with other 4wders, quick and effective communication with a decent distance. It's also useful when your driving up roads with log-trucks, ever wondered what those number markers are on remote roads/roads frequented by trucks? Well they are used to identify your location/direction and what your driving.

E.g. At work I'm constantly driving on roads with log trucks, I always call out using the number system so they know i'm coming and I can pull over or slow down for the truck. I'd recommend buying one, I will be.
***Larger AT Wheels and tires (improve capability, 1 good set 1 rough set)
good idea. at/mud tyres are expensive though. even better if you can have an on road set and an offroad set to prevent wearing out those expensive offroaders!
***Snorkle (river crossings, do I need straight away?)
Probably not, always walk water/river crossings first if possible, some people dont but I do.Dont drive anywhere your not comfortable. You can stuff your car if you dont understand some basic principles when it comes to water crossings if they are of substantial depth (covered in 4wd training course).


The rest of your ideas sound good, cant help with the dual battery but i'd say it can be done. Going to attempt this in my brumby, admittedly I have much more space to play with.

Cheers.
Brumby 1992: EA81, 15" peugot steelies, 2" ********* body lift, tonneau cover, bullbar, GME UHF, ARB compressor, ********* rear diff protector, SOLD

-97 Landcruiser :D

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GOD
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Post by GOD » Sun Jan 08, 2012 10:10 pm

First off, forget all about ARB. If you don't have a new Cruiser or Patrol and a gold MasterCard, they don't want to know you.
Next, get out there (preferably with some friends or a club) and see what your car can do and where it's lacking. Then you can set your priorities. These are mine:

Step 1: Get a compressor and tyre pressure gauge. ARB ones are good but expensive.
Step 2: Tyres. You might need to go down a wheel size and up in tyre height. Note that ATs are not necessary for sand work.
Step 3: Second battery. Get a sealed one and put it in the boot or rear passenger footwell. Make sure it's bolted down.
Step 4: Centre diff lock switch might be doable if your car is an auto.
Step 5: Radio if you expect to spending time in convoy. GME or Uniden gear from Prestige is good.
Step 6: Suspension lift. King Springs are probably a good start.
Step 7: Bullbar. Great to have, but very expensive. SubaXtreme or Irvin Bullbars.

If you're doing river crossings that require a snorkel, you have the wrong car. I'm close to writing off my Subie due to water damage.

Driving lights will slot in there somewhere. Your preference depending on how much night time country driving you do. Old or cheap lights are unlikely to make a difference to the factory headlights.

My 2c.

Dane.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
1993 EA82/EJ18/EJ22/EJ22/EJ20/EJ22 L Series perpetual project

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spike
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Post by spike » Mon Jan 09, 2012 9:42 am

yep danes about right
1 hard mount compressor and reasonable tires, tires will get you a long way and downing pressure makes it even further. Also get a good set of recovery gear.

2 cheap battery box that can be bolted down but also bolt the battery down seperatly inside. its very rare for them to go flying in any crash (motorsport included) if done properly

3 only autos can have the diff lock trick done, and thats just center diff not either end.

the foresters are great for touring and sand driving but they will never be a rock climber etc

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Mon Jan 09, 2012 8:00 pm

Jerrad wrote:G’day all!
I am new to the forums and new to this idea of moding. *I own a ’09 Forester XS and* I currently live in Hastings, Vic, Aus. *I would like to make my Forester more offroad capable. *I am really keen to get out and about and off the beaten track, offroading, camping, skiing, Mt biking, and go out on some trips with a club.
I THINK I have a rough idea what I’m doing. I would love some tips, advice, help choosing, products, contacts, expertise, etc. I have a budget for everything I’m thinking of doing and will try stick to it but I don’t want to compromise on quality so it may have to be done in several stages. *Also, I am keen to do it all myself to learn more and have that pride in it, I think I have the expertise but may need some help and need to buy extra tools. I am trying to stick to a budget of $5000... I’ve not done calculations yet ...
***************
The things I’m looking at doing is:-
The main thing I want to get done/do properly is a dual battery system under the bonnet. I have spoken to ARB and TJM and they say its not done without A LOT of work, if at all. I know there isn’t A LOT of room under there but it has to be able to be done. I dont really like the idea of a removable battery in the wagon area that takes up space and can move around in a crash or something. (cant leave radio on or lights or fridge on for camping)
Sump Guard - subaxtreme (general protection)
***Offroad Bullbar - subaxtreme (approach angle, collisions, lights, bushbash, tow points, etc)
***2"Suspension lift kit - Crossbred Performance (Blocks or springs or?)
***Air Compressor - ARB - CKMA12 (built in under hood for car and mt bike (ARB air lockers?))
***CB Radio - Prestige Communication - GME TX3100 bonus pack (do I need this?)
***Driving lights (I own an old set to start with)
Diff lock switch I’ve read about (cheap, need books and read more)
***Larger AT Wheels and tires (improve capability, 1 good set 1 rough set)
***Snorkle (river crossings, do I need straight away?)
***Like I’ve said I’m really new to this whole thing so I have no real idea what is best to do and what is “needed” so Im just trying to figure it all out from reading forums (not my strong point) and any advice you guys may give. I am more interested in touring and general offroad stuff, beach (stockton) and snow (real home Jindabyne), Im not really keen on rockcrawling.
***I am keen to try get most of it organised together and then do it in 1 big hit soonish... So if all goes well I’ll keep up the thread with the work and pics and then see you out and about shortly!
Anything from you guys would be greatly appreciated...even just moral support
First off, get in contact with the subaru 4wd club of victoria, they'll have loads of info there and will have beginner to advanced trips designed for those who are just starting out to those who are after the rough and ready stuff. There will be guys there with your model of subaru so you can pick their brains about their mods and what's worked best for them - but keep in mind that everyone has a different use for their 4wd ;)

Sounds like you've either done some offroading or you've done your research to what you need in your kit. I've been working on mine for almost 7 years now and I'm still no there yet!

Dane's pretty much hit the nail on the head I reckon. A good set of driving lights are always my first priority as I'm driving at night in the country, don't go for cheap as you'll get the light output that you pay for! Sad but true!

And as Spike has said - even a basic recovery kit is essential! If you're going it alone best to get a good quality kit that allows you to self recover - and learn how to use it before you go!
GOD wrote:First off, forget all about ARB. If you don't have a new Cruiser or Patrol and a gold MasterCard, they don't want to know you.
Ain't that the truth!!!

I'm sure you'll always be modding your foz, it never ends! Trust me ;)

Welcome to the forum :D

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
Image
El Freddo's Pics - El_Freddo's youtube

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Jerrad
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Post by Jerrad » Tue Jan 10, 2012 4:06 pm

Thanks for your advise!
Its helped me think about things and access what I really need and want and how to get there. I already have some recovery gear but I agree its a must have if your going out.
I plan on doing a 4WD course once I have a sump guard and a lift kit. I have a little experience with offroading but I still have ALOT to learn!
Do I go springs or blocks? whats the difference? I haven't really been able to find springs yet but have found a few ppl who make the blocks.
My main thing after the lift and guard is the battery and compressor. What other brands of hard mounted compressors are there?
I will be getting new rims and tires after Iv been on a few trips.
I hope to keep this up and start mods soon!

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NachaLuva
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Post by NachaLuva » Tue Jan 10, 2012 7:24 pm

You have the same decision to make as I did lol ;)

have a look here:
showthread.php?t=20565

Basically, raised springs lift the whole car up bout 30mm. It will be slightly harsher but handle better onroad. It will however reduce articulation offroad.

Strut lift also lifts the whole car by the amount of the lift, ie, 1", 2", etc. In Vic the legal maximum is 2".

A body lifts raises the whole car except the driveline. Its more expensive, harder to install but leaves the suspension unchanged.

Spring choices are King Springs or Dobinsons.

Do you really want a hard wired compressor? A portable compressor is much cheaper & more versatile...

Use the search function at top of page to search for lifts, compressors, etc
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Owner SubieLiftOz, lift kits for Subarus :twisted:

'97 Forester: EJ22E; 4" Custom Body Lift; JDM STi plated LSD; 20mm WRX RSB; Snorkel; Kings

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spike
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Post by spike » Wed Jan 11, 2012 6:33 am

nachaluva wrote:Do you really want a hard wired compressor? A portable compressor is much cheaper & more versatile...
were talking proper compressors here, not the crappy cigarette ones right?

i find hard mounts more versatile and as for cheap well how cheap is having one go bang when you need it?

for a battery
ill have to look at our FOZ and see the best place. Depending how much you have to spend definatly get a full sealed one and better yet go a glass impregnated one

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woody.t
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Post by woody.t » Wed Jan 11, 2012 11:35 am

"the wisest of men followed the stars"
<a href="http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthrea ... 200">CHLOE THE LIBERTY</a>
to do list:
-3" strut, 2" body lift uni mid-year break

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NachaLuva
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Post by NachaLuva » Fri Jan 13, 2012 2:40 pm

spike wrote:were talking proper compressors here, not the crappy cigarette ones right?

i find hard mounts more versatile and as for cheap well how cheap is having one go bang when you need it?

for a battery
ill have to look at our FOZ and see the best place. Depending how much you have to spend definatly get a full sealed one and better yet go a glass impregnated one
No, not cig lighter lol. They connect to the battery.
This is what I have:
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online ... escription

or:
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online ... escription

Do a search to find what others have...
Hehehe :twisted:
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Owner SubieLiftOz, lift kits for Subarus :twisted:

'97 Forester: EJ22E; 4" Custom Body Lift; JDM STi plated LSD; 20mm WRX RSB; Snorkel; Kings

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spike
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Post by spike » Fri Jan 13, 2012 3:53 pm

im still not too keen on those little dinky ones. When we do non servicing in the rally car i carry one like yours but plumbed into a tank, running through a sort of variac (sp) to keep the tank full and the unit cool. basically they over heat a lot and become useless just what ive noticed

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NachaLuva
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Post by NachaLuva » Fri Jan 13, 2012 6:39 pm

yep fair enough. Its your car, you need to be happy with what you put in. Sounds like you're set on the hard mount compressor. I'm sure I'm not the only one who is interested how you go...we need photos lol ;)
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Owner SubieLiftOz, lift kits for Subarus :twisted:

'97 Forester: EJ22E; 4" Custom Body Lift; JDM STi plated LSD; 20mm WRX RSB; Snorkel; Kings

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spike
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Post by spike » Fri Jan 13, 2012 10:52 pm

nachaluva wrote:yep fair enough. Its your car, you need to be happy with what you put in. Sounds like you're set on the hard mount compressor. I'm sure I'm not the only one who is interested how you go...we need photos lol ;)
yeah i am =P

but while we know what were set on the OP may be interested to know our reasons

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Jerrad
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Post by Jerrad » Mon Jan 16, 2012 9:27 pm

Thanks for the feed back! I just got back home to VIC from Toronto HOLIDAYS! My Cuz bought a jetski! and smashing the dunes at Stockton! So now its time to really knuckle down and do my research and work! Id like to get everything together then take time off work and fit it all in a week or whatever it takes! Any and all help is much appreciated! Info, research, install, pro's/con's, opinions.
Now that IS a WICKED car "woody.t"!!! I wish I had the moneys and expertise to do that stuff! I love the snow and would love a car like that! Imagine what I could do!
I am pretty keen on a hard mount compressor as I dont have to worry about it at all! dont have to pack it into an easy to reach space or even worse forget it! Its just there al the time when I need/want it! I can see that a protable one is good too but I think I like the mounted one. And if I install it I know how to remove it and install it into my new car!
So far Iv only been able to find Strut block lifts for the new shape foresters which I think I kind of like. I dont loose any of the down motion and I get the lift, thought I think Id like some harder springs or something to improve onroad.

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spike
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Post by spike » Wed Jan 18, 2012 3:15 pm

if your going for the hard mount, and your going to bar the car up. use the bars as air resivour, you can then add air up points front rear and each side.

any more questions you get post up or inbox me and ill try and help, thats what were here for

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pitrack_1
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Lights and Cargo Barrier

Post by pitrack_1 » Sun Jan 22, 2012 10:48 pm

Hi Jerrad,

can't help you with the real off-road stuff but what I can suggest:

1) Have a look at my thread on Driving lights (2010 diesel model) http://ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20242 and I also posted in the latter half of "Lights, globes, driving lights etc." showthread.php?p=172840. Ideas about switch, switch location (have you noticed there's no spare switch panel?) and lights- by luck, same as Subaxtreme have on their website. I recommend having a competent autoelectrican wire them.

2) A new cargo barrier. Rear items won't come visiting for a look-see if you tilt your car at a funny angle, or execute an 'emergency stop'. Milford seem to be the ones and they're adjustable from behind the rear seats to behind the front seats. Be warned: they take up considerable space behind the rear seat (up to 10 cm) compared to other vehicles I've seen. This seems to be due to the reclining rear seat and they also have mounting bolts/knobs which intrude further into the rear cargo area. I haven't tried the forward position. I've heard not to fit them yourself (may be a post/thread on this) and it may be illegal to do so. The Subaru plastic cargo tray liner won't fit properly once the barrier's in. But the feeling of security from large objects in the rear...a mechanic friend of mine told me of 'Cruisers with whole loads restrained after being dropped onto their nose from height.

Good luck and I'm looking forward to hearing and seeing what you've done!
Patrick
Ex- 2010 Forester Diesel

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Jerrad
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Post by Jerrad » Tue Jan 24, 2012 12:24 pm

Thanks spike, spoke through PM cause didn't understand his post! Hehe
Thanks to Patrick! I am a stickler for everything being secure and not moving in my car! I have a net that goes over everything in the boot! I couldn't handle having a barrier though as much as I'd love one! My seats spend 1/2 their lives down! Either my dog or my bike/bikes are in the back! I'm planing on making a better method of securing my bikes in the car instead of laying them down so the dog and gear can fit in. And to get them off the roof for long trips and for offroad low overhang trees etc.
I have noticed that I didn't have spare places for switches! And it's a pain! Iv been wondering where to put my fan and driving light switches!!! That's a good idea though for your switch!
Thanks for your help!
Thanks! Jerrad!
OFFROAD NOOB MODDING

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pitrack_1
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Cargo barrier, bike mount, cargo tray

Post by pitrack_1 » Tue Jan 24, 2012 10:27 pm

Jerrad wrote:I couldn't handle having a barrier though as much as I'd love one! My seats spend 1/2 their lives down! Either my dog or my bike/bikes are in the back!
Don't forget the Milford barrier has a second position for behind the front seats, ie back seats down...so if you don't need the back seats (no family etc) you could leave it in that position.
Jerrad wrote:I'm planing on making a better method of securing my bikes in the car instead of laying them down so the dog and gear can fit in.
I'd be very interested in how you mount your bikes inside. MTB or road? I had an idea of bolting a fork mount carrier ( http://www.probikekit.com/au/luggage-tr ... mount.html for example) to the rear seat back so when folded down the bike can be carried inside à la roof rack mounts.

Something else available you may be interested in: apparently from the Japanese Domestic Market on Japanparts are solid cargo area and seat back protectors. See http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin ... ost1024298. Other little trinkets, such as sports grilles, centre console pockets, etc available too and may be in that thread.

Have fun! Sorry for digressing from the 4WDing... :-)
Patrick
Ex- 2010 Forester Diesel

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Jerrad
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Post by Jerrad » Fri Jan 27, 2012 8:37 pm

I have the exact same idea with regards to putting the bikes in the back! Im a MT biker, Scott Genius 30 & 40! Dont really want to get these scratched if Im out and about smashing some offroad trails!
Over Xmas I had the 2 bikes inside upside down with just the front wheels off and the seats down. I strapped them in so they wouldnt move and it worked great! But I want something easyer and quicker to put in and remove. So I was going to try 2 of those brackets to the boot end and the back wheels to the back of the passenger headrest. Then thinking just put the seat back up to stop them bouncing...
Ill draw up some plans soon. I have alot on my plate so Im researching at night and falling sleep! haha!
Thanks! Jerrad!
OFFROAD NOOB MODDING

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Jerrad
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Post by Jerrad » Mon Jan 30, 2012 8:44 pm

Hrm, hit abit of a snag...
Insurance company wont insure car if you change suspension more then 30mm!
Any one else have this problem? I was just about to do a bulk order of things!
Thanks! Jerrad!
OFFROAD NOOB MODDING

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