Jerrad wrote:Ok so Im back! Time to actually get into my MODs! Iv been training for the "kona otway odessey"! 100km with about 3000m vertical Mt Biking! It was great fun on the weekend and Id do it again, I was a little sore and stiff but fine otherwise.
On ya mate!
Jerrad wrote:
Quick QU:-
-What is the best way to join the HIGH BEAM wire and the wire for relay for the driving lights? I dont like the idea of the clip that pierces the 2 wires, no water proof or anything.
-Where/how is the best way to get a wire from the engine bay into the cockpit?
1. The Hi-beams are controlled through a relay.
2. The hi-beam relay solenoid is controlled by the body control unit (BCU) computer/box.
3. The hi-beam power comes directly from a +ve 12V rail, though a fuse, the relay and back to ground (I assume).
Click each pic below for a larger version.
a) The driving lights should be wired on their own separate circuit, through a fuse and relay.
b) Because of (2.) you shouldn't connect the driving light relay solenoid in parallel with the hi-beam relay solenoid. You may interfere with the BCU, overload the circuit, cause ground loops/ external grounds, etc.
c) Because of (3.) the driving light relay solenoid can be wired in parallel with the Hi-beam bulbs. The extra power draw (from the SOLENOID) will be very small compared to the hi-beam bulbs and shouldn't interfere. It's easiest to tap in at/near a hi-beam bulb. Run from the hi-beam +ve, through the cockpit switch, relay solenoid, and back to hi-beam -ve/gnd. See my pic for the tap-in done by an auto-elec.
d) Where the cockpit switch wires can be run through the bulkhead[/url]. I don't know if that rubber grommet/bung was there to begin with or not.
e) Wire the power for the driving lights from the +ve battery terminal, through an in-line fuse, to the driving lights (don't forget they go in parallel with each other) and back to the -ve battery terminal or good chassis ground. Be careful about the ground, don't use an electronic/harness one just in case you get some weird effects. On that, better just go back to the battery straight
f) Use good ring terminals at the battery as they'll carry a reasonable amount of current. Inline fuse for safety, and you should be able to buy splices/wire joiners- you just need to actually cut the cable, strip the ends and crimp them in. Tape up with electrical tape.
g) You can also see my
thread on fitting driving lights.
Jerrad wrote:whats best way to do pics?
Try
photobucket. You'll need a login (just register one) It will give you links to paste in.
The instructions for including images and files are in the FAQs. Note if you make pics come up inline please make sure they aren't too big. You can link bigger ones as I have done.
Jerrad wrote:Any tips before I start? haha!
I think I saw from your photo you have the original Bridgestone Dueler H/T 687s? See
what happened to me. One dead tyre may mean 4 new ones (or you can stuff the AWD system). If you're going to be off-tarmac a lot, watch out and run lower pressures (30psi i've been recommended) or get better ones.
Have fun and don't destroy anything on that shiny forester!
