How much does an L series windscreen cost?

Mitchhsj · Post by **Mitchhsj** » Wed Aug 22, 2012 7:34 pm

i got one it was $180 fitted

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Wed Aug 22, 2012 8:00 pm

Yeah 1 of the 19 tiny bolts.

Gonna try an easy out.
All still in their sealed up.

Cam

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Wed Aug 22, 2012 8:41 pm

Bennie, that muppet is someone in my family (not me though

) and yeah the car won't need to be moved in a hurry. Do you know how much room they need around/in front of the car? might have to push it out a bit.

Mitch it would have been cheaper if I'd gone to him but for $20 and the convenience I can live with that.

Good luck with the easy out Cam, those are some tiny bolts

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Thu Aug 23, 2012 5:33 pm

Well, there was some bad news under a huge tarp waiting for me when I got home today. The guy couldn't replace the glass; it's completely rusted out underneath and I mean completely (huge holes barely any metal left all the way along the bottom) which leaves me in a bit of a pickle as to what to do next and a brand new windscreen sitting on the back seat

You live and you learn I guess, always be weary of cheap cars etc etc. I've decided that I won't spend another dollar on it, and just live with the inconvenience of the space it takes up while I take the nice/useful bits of it and sell it to a scrap yard. I feel a bit pissed off but not that much, glad I didn't pay any more for it. More disappointed that I won't be able to drive it again, since it drives so nice

Anybody want a brand new L series windscreen, still in the wrapper?

MTB92 · Post by **MTB92** » Thu Aug 23, 2012 5:51 pm

before you give up. there is a metal replacement putty that i have used a couple of times for repairs, its amazing stuff.

I had a hole about the size of a 50c piece under one of the space compartments on the side in the back of the l series through the body of the car. pushed the putty into place, let it dry, sanded it back and a lick of paint and you wouldn't know it was there unless i told you.

The old man also used it to fix the washing maching. 20 yr old beast and then drum had rusted out at the top and was leaking water out of it. used the putty to fix and we got another 2 years out of the machine. (this would surely be more demanding than behind a windsreen)

you buy it in a tube, warm it up in your hands and mixs the chemicals inside it. put it on and shape it like playdough. in 2 hrs it is safe to sand, drill, machine...

not saying it is a perfect solution, but it could/should get you another 12months from the car. stuff only costs 25 bucks from bunnings, and a few hrs of your time. worth a try isn't it!!

i will find the stuff when i get a chance at home and put up the name of it.

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Thu Aug 23, 2012 6:15 pm

Damn, yeah I would try some putty or something.
If you do get rid of it. What wheels does it have?

Cam

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Thu Aug 23, 2012 6:59 pm

Brumby Kid wrote:Damn, yeah I would try some putty or something.
If you do get rid of it. What wheels does it have?

Cam

13" black sunnies, only 4 of them though.

MTB, do you mean Selley's knead it? that might work for 12 months or so if I treated the rust as best I could first, but I dunno if I want to risk the brand new windscreen fitting it myself

MTB92 · Post by **MTB92** » Thu Aug 23, 2012 8:03 pm

Silverbullet wrote:MTB, do you mean Selley's knead it? that might work for 12 months or so if I treated the rust as best I could first, but I dunno if I want to risk the brand new windscreen fitting it myself

I think that is the stuff, but will check later.

isn't 12 months or so all you want? and i honestly think it would last much longer than that. I have been more than impressed with it.

yep, i can understand not wanting to fit it yourself, would it cost much to get the guy back out to install? cant imagine it would be huge.

revmax · Post by **revmax** » Thu Aug 23, 2012 8:13 pm

Photos photos.
My old L was like that and i blasted it back to what there was left of bare metal around the frame. Painted it and got the screen re fitted.
It was still sealed 3 years later when I sold it.
Show me some detailed photos

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Thu Aug 23, 2012 8:26 pm

MTB92 wrote:I think that is the stuff, but will check later.

isn't 12 months or so all you want? and i honestly think it would last much longer than that. I have been more than impressed with it.

yep, i can understand not wanting to fit it yourself, would it cost much to get the guy back out to install? cant imagine it would be huge.

He said he'll come and install it if/when I get it fixed...but his idea of fixed was taking it to a crash repairer to get it all welded up like new again. I don't think he'd install it if it was just filled with putty somehow, no matter how good that stuff is

Here ya go revmax. The worst is right in the middle at the bottom where it's paper thin with a big cavity behind it...anyone know what that cavity is for? not the air-con air passage I hope? Up the sides and across the top is nowhere near as bad, there's some bad spots but other than that it's almost solid.

revmax · Post by **revmax** » Thu Aug 23, 2012 9:42 pm

AWWW ! Nasty. Blast that and there is likley to be nothing left in the middle.
What a shame.
Oh well strip the L. you have 5 speed box n tail shaft now and a spare diff, change the interior lights over.
Flog the ea82 off, think the alternator and starter are interchangable, The carb will probably fit your EA81.
The little plastic plugs that hold the door trims on are the same as MY.
Pretty sure the engine mounts are the same and you might be able to take any decent bushes out.
The ends of the rear CV's are the same.
The inner front CV jounts are the same, the outer fronts look the same but I haven't checked for sure.
You could upgrade the manual adjustment rear drums to the L's auto adjust.
Theres heaps of stuff you could rip out and use.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Aug 24, 2012 8:30 am

The cavity is

for your feet and everything electrical under dash. Get down to a marine supplies place, tell 'em you want the resin that sticks better to metal and rust

get some fibreglass tape, hardener, some brushes, sand papers etc and get into it - I did in 2006 with mine and it's only just started to leak there again - into my heater fan motor so I diverted the motors cooling tube to the floor

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Aug 24, 2012 8:32 am

or Brakes for the 'bullets front ??

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Fri Aug 24, 2012 4:53 pm

revmax wrote:AWWW ! Nasty. Blast that and there is likley to be nothing left in the middle.
What a shame.
Oh well strip the L. you have 5 speed box n tail shaft now and a spare diff, change the interior lights over.
Flog the ea82 off, think the alternator and starter are interchangable, The carb will probably fit your EA81.
The little plastic plugs that hold the door trims on are the same as MY.
Pretty sure the engine mounts are the same and you might be able to take any decent bushes out.
The ends of the rear CV's are the same.
The inner front CV jounts are the same, the outer fronts look the same but I haven't checked for sure.
You could upgrade the manual adjustment rear drums to the L's auto adjust.
Theres heaps of stuff you could rip out and use.

That's the plan, thanks for the info I didn't know the interior trim pins were the same. Dad was complaining the seats in his L are sagging and uncomfortable...well problem solved there. Could swap the electric windows, central locking and exhaust over if it's in ok condition. I've got an L series tail shaft now for my 5 speed conversion, will keep whatever else is useful and flog the rest off on gumtree or on here. How much is a set of sunraysias worth?

I don't want them being 13's and Dad already has rarer/nicer mags. And the windscreen place will only give me $100 back for the windscreen, pah! Johnno are the front L brakes much bigger than the MY? worth the upgrade? I'll be keeping the front struts/tops as I've heard swapping them gets rid of the MY's heavy steering.

Now it's just the hassle of all the work to strip it, and the ear bashing I'm going to get when father returns from the UK

Still most bummed about not being able to drive it again, it was so nice

revmax · Post by **revmax** » Fri Aug 24, 2012 7:33 pm

drill the gear box crossmember mounts out form the underneath of the car as well.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Aug 25, 2012 8:23 am

or do you mean the centre bearing mounts?
The L brakes are bigger - gotto be better ??? But gees, if I could get same compound front pads for my Brumby that I just installed on my GLTA wouldn't bother unless i just wanted the brag factor

It is more in trying to please engineers and authorities down the track with turbo install

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sat Aug 25, 2012 11:00 pm

revmax wrote:AWWW ! Nasty. Blast that and there is likley to be nothing left in the middle.

Typical L serie rust right there. That's why I keep telling everyone to check the windscreen surround thoroughly. It will usually show up on the sides around the windscreen, this will tell you there's an issue under the windscreen.

revmax wrote:The carb will probably fit your EA81.

Only if you use the EA82 inlet manifold. The EA82 carbie is bigger than the EA81's, it'll need an adaptor plate to make it fit if you're not using the intake manifold. If you do use the EA82 intake manifold use all the emissions gear that goes with it.

revmax wrote:The little plastic plugs that hold the door trims on are the same as MY.

They are.

revmax wrote:The ends of the rear CV's are the same.
The inner front CV jounts are the same, the outer fronts look the same but I haven't checked for sure.

Length might be the issue - I'm not 100% on this though.

revmax wrote:You could upgrade the manual adjustment rear drums to the L's auto adjust.

Works a treat. You need the backing plates, L series slave cylinders etc and it all bolts up and works well. Sunnie the Brumby has this "treatment".

steptoe wrote:Get down to a marine supplies place, tell 'em you want the resin that sticks better to metal and rust get some fibreglass tape, hardener, some brushes, sand papers etc and get into it - I did in 2006 with mine and it's only just started to leak there again - into my heater fan motor so I diverted the motors cooling tube to the floor

This is what I'd be doing if you're only after 12 months use out of it. Use another windscreen fitter if need be - tell them you're only after short term usage of the vehicle. Hopefully that'll get the work done to get it on the road again.

Also check your local parts joint for a set of compounds that when mixed set like steel. I've picked up some today but I'm not near it to tell you exactly what the product is

Brumby Kid wrote:Damn, yeah I would try some putty or something.

+1. For a great car in every other department why wouldn't you??

Cheers

Bennie

revmax · Post by **revmax** » Sun Aug 26, 2012 6:37 am

SB yer sorry ment the bearing mounts.

Bennie
I have an EA82 carb bolted straight onto a 84 brumby inlet manifold, the stud spacing is wider on the earlier EA81's so it might just fit his MY wagon.

The ends of the mentioned CV's are the same just the length of the shafts are different Bennie.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun Aug 26, 2012 8:45 am

revmax wrote:Bennie
I have an EA82 carb bolted straight onto a 84 brumby inlet manifold, the stud spacing is wider on the earlier EA81's so it might just fit his MY wagon.

Interesting. I wonder if it is that the early EA82 carbs are the same size and the later "series 2" are the larger units. Never thought about that before!

revmax wrote:The ends of the mentioned CV's are the same just the length of the shafts are different

I thought they were different at the hub? Steptoe seems to be currently nutting through this process. Actually I've got two shafts out to compare - an L and the one from the brumby that I'm replacing a boot on. I'll get a pic of the two when I can.

Cheers

Bennie

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sun Aug 26, 2012 2:05 pm

If I went the "liquid steel" and resin route, is it easy to form the proper shape along the bottom (flat surface for the windscreen to bond to) is it really fussy about the shape/flatness? Where do I go to get such resin/s? what about cost?
Why wouldn't I do it? I've got 8 days left to hand in the registration swap over papers and pay the fee. If I don't do this, what happens? does it just mean I can re-register it in my name when the existing rego expires with no hassles? Or will they ask how did I get the car etc etc. It will definitely take me longer than 8 days (5 of them working) to get the materials and do the fix, if I do it.

About the carb conversion for my MY, I won't bother since I've got the freshly built twins sitting in the shed, and the engine I'm running at the moment runs sweet as a nut so why change it.

You guys are swaying my decision about the resin fix

it is such a nice car otherwise after all.