What did you do to improve your soobie today

Rodeo4jake · Post by **Rodeo4jake** » Tue Apr 23, 2013 8:24 pm

That looks like a very nice job, I've been toying with the idea of getting equal length headers on my Brumby. Just wish I could be certain of finding someone to do the job that good.

Cheers Jake

Post by **TOONGA** » Tue Apr 23, 2013 8:31 pm

60766244 wrote:Ordered a new CV setup for the Brumby. Turns out she's a custom jobby.

Hopefully done tomorrow arvo!

Anyone else have custom CV's on their EJ converted machines? :\

Yes I have liberty inner CV joints on brumby shafts with brumby outer CV joints.

You need to talk to RSR555 to find out how it was done.

Im pretty sure it was first gen liberty cups and brumby race and bearings.

But RSR will know for sure.

TOONGA

cerebro · Post by **cerebro** » Tue Apr 23, 2013 9:56 pm

Bought some engine oil and had a Nokia CK100 handsfree installed.

60766244 · Post by **60766244** » Tue Apr 23, 2013 11:10 pm

TOONGA wrote:Yes I have liberty inner CV joints on brumby shafts with brumby outer CV joints.

You need to talk to RSR555 to find out how it was done.

Im pretty sure it was first gen liberty cups and brumby race and bearings.

But RSR will know for sure.

TOONGA

Cheers, Text sent. I seem to be getting mixed messages all over. Hopefully I can sort it by tomorrow.

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Thu Apr 25, 2013 4:57 pm

Today I cut some thick rubber mat for the back of the ute. Dad brought home this 6ft roll of solid thick rubber (about 6-8mm, must be conveyor belt stuff?) from Paramount Browns. Heavy too I struggled to manoeuvre the roll around by myself. Anyway got around to cutting it to length and cutting out for the wheels, realized that the wheel arches aren't identical on both sides

And here it is now, looks real nice and will be bloody hard wearing

Also finally got around to fixing the latch in the tail gate. I always thought it was the two mechanisms at each end that were seized but turns out it was the crappy contraption in the middle...designed to suck is an understatement

Basically a piece of the handle side of the latch was fouling and jamming up against the swivel part that the two pushrods bolt to. This same part was also jamming up against the inner skin of the tailgate and locking into place.
I had to cut and file some bits, bend some things and space the handle out with some washers, but I got there. Works perfectly now and I can live with the handle sticking out that .5mm extra

60766244 · Post by **60766244** » Thu Apr 25, 2013 9:18 pm

Silverbullet wrote:

I'd either be sealing the edges with some really, really tough rubberglue to keep out the dirt and water, or drill a load of 20mm holes evenly spaced over the whole mat.
I've seen a lot of trays rusted out with a large sheet of un-punctured rubber in the back. Gotta ventilate to drain well and minimize the rust!
Mine has a large mat that came from Clark Rubber that looks like a giant rubber welcome mat.
Looks really flash how it is however!

Edit: Also, on topic, Lift Finished! Car is working again.

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Thu Apr 25, 2013 10:00 pm

I'm aware of the problem of water getting trapped underneath, if it was my choice I would have gotten the rubber like yours but dad just brought this home one day so had to use it

I'll just keep a close eye on it and take the rubber out to clean underneath regularly.

60766244 · Post by **60766244** » Thu Apr 25, 2013 10:42 pm

I saw the massive expanse of rubber, and knowing the toughness of conveyor rubber thought, "What an epic thief-proof tonneau that would make.":rolleyes:
Looks great imho.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Apr 26, 2013 7:32 am

The wheel tubs are not symetrical due to filler tube me thinks. Can vouch for that rusty look under bloody heavy mat - as for the holes drilled in rubber sheet - any tips to do a neat job - rubber is tricky stuff to drill and get a tidy round hole result!

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Fri Apr 26, 2013 11:16 am

Instead of drilling. Go to Clark rubber and buy a sheet of it pre drilled.
Looks good in my ute, cut it to size etc. and neat holes evenly spaced.

Cheers Cam

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Fri Apr 26, 2013 11:26 am

You wont drill it, you will need to get a large hole punch, a lump of hardwood and a hammer to make the holes neat

tambox · Post by **tambox** » Fri Apr 26, 2013 12:30 pm

sharpened water pipe makes a good budget hole punch.

FujiFan · Post by **FujiFan** » Fri Apr 26, 2013 10:18 pm

Replaced the drivers door pin switch for courtesy light, has been a bit dicky for a while!
No matter what parts you can salvage from old/wrecked Subarus, they come in handy someday:)

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sat Apr 27, 2013 5:17 pm

Bought some fish oil and brush on seam sealer for the wagon resto. Put some oil down the A pillar behind one of my welds and quickly saw it seeping out through some pin holes that aren't even visible...this stuff penetrates!

Good stuff, but even the de-odorized oil still smells fishy

Bumpty · Post by **Bumpty** » Sun Apr 28, 2013 2:58 pm

Suspected leaking header tank on my Legacy. Replaced that today. Fingers crossed its not anything else and major!

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Thu May 02, 2013 6:10 pm

Fixed a little problem that's been bugging me since I did the engine swap; nearly the entire clutch pedal stroke is free-play. With the crappy little adjustment nut wound all the way in still too much free play. I had enough travel to change gears, but recently it's been getting worse and today I could barely select 1st, clutch touching the floor and it wasn't dis-engaged.

So when I had a spare 20 minutes at work I made a new adjustment nut...out of tool steel (because that's all that was laying around

) Made it alot beefier and had clearance at the front end to clear the non threaded part and get me some more adjustment. I had to form-grind a special HSS cutting tool to turn the ball shape that fits into the clutch fork, and then machine 2 flats on the round nut to 11.7mm which fits my 12mm spanner perfectly. Then a simple M6 thread and it was all done. Swapped the old crappy nut over after work, 10 minutes later and I can change gears again! friction point in the middle of the pedal where it should be, makes it so much easier to drive.

Before anyone says the clutch is worn out; it's not. I put a my nearly new one in with the engine, and I definitely put the friction plate in the right way around. Dunno why there was so much free-play though. For a clearer picture of what I made, here's a picture...not of the real thing though since it's on the car.

B00sting · Post by **B00sting** » Thu May 02, 2013 6:51 pm

new alternator.
fixed the godamn reverse being difficult to get into problem.

60766244 · Post by **60766244** » Thu May 02, 2013 7:51 pm

B00sting wrote:...fixed the godamn reverse being difficult to get into problem.

How? I sometimes get that pretty bad

Took my Brumby down to Methams Mufflers Belmont and he got my exhaust off my driveshaft with the blowtorch. Booked in only 2 hours before I got it done! Took 20 minutes, they charge me $20. Very good service.

Only brake lines, front brakes, gearbox plate and wheel caps to go!

B00sting · Post by **B00sting** » Fri May 03, 2013 1:50 pm

Well mine was really bad since the 2" body lift. Basically cut and welded the gearstick on a slightly different angle. It no longer fouls on the 4wd linkages. But it can also be sloppy bushes. Shifter still sloppy but goes into reverse easy as now.

Kustomchris · Post by **Kustomchris** » Fri May 03, 2013 2:29 pm

I fitted up a couple of spot lights to the front of my ride, yet to fit a proper switch inside the cabin though.
Not looking foward to running wires all over the place through my dash for it but it will be worth it once its done