Buyers remorse, need inspiration!

[steptoe]

Only 2WD ? Does this mean it has a FWD box in it? Rear drive gear deleted such as axles, rear diff, diff hanger etc gone?
So assuming FWD box it is an EA82 L Series 5 speed. Sounds like you don't care too much about paying someone else to maintain - these babies are pretty good for learning car maintenance and repair. Subaru dealers used too replace the Hitachi with a Weber when necessary due to cost so you would think it is an endorsed repair by Subaru so not a problem for rego inspectors. Never run an EJ in a Brumby before - but I have one and its gearbox sitting in one at the moment . I run EA82 in my daily Brumby in various forms and mighty happy with them, but never a single port carb EA82 - I prefer the twin port mpfi (with or without turbo - don't mind ) You didn't lose - think of it as buying a tailgate for $500 and getting the rest for free ! I don't kapisch the 20 and 80 psi readings at all - but they are only idle speed indications. As far as the tank fuel gauge - it is a rough guide to half, then rough again to empty. The 400,000 km is on the speedo? not the engine. Ute may have done 300 to 400,000 on the EA81 then had the donor shoved in. To go to EA81 would be an insult to your ears - unless you like chaff cutters

[johnnyjoejoejr]

Hey steptoe, thanks for the info. I think you've misread my original post, I didn't end up getting a brumby, I was looking at a few but I impluse purchased an L series wagon. I'd like to do work on it myself but don't have the space or tools to do major work and I haven't got it registered yet. I'm basically at the mercy of the mechanic until its got plates on it so I can park it on the street without getting a canary.

[El_Freddo]

@steptoe - the series one and some early import (I think) series two wagons were front wheel drive from factory.

I saw a few in the parts yards back when you could find a number of L’s in there.

And an EA81 would be an upgrade in the L series over the EA82... bullet proof without the rubber bands to run the cams

Cheers

Bennie

[L-Rex]

And an EA81 would be an upgrade in the L series over the EA82... bullet proof without the rubber bands to run the cams

An even better upgrade would be the Diesel. No rubber bands, awesome ECU remap potential, and mind-numbing torque off idle.

When they come down in price, I might look at sandwiching one into an unsuspecting wagon...

[Subyroo]

And an EA81 would be an upgrade in the L series over the EA82... bullet proof without the rubber bands to run the cams

An even better upgrade would be the Diesel. No rubber bands, awesome ECU remap potential, and mind-numbing torque off idle.

You just need to get by the DPF issue.

[L-Rex]

You just need to get by the DPF issue.

It's city driving, and zero freeway driving, that kills the DPF

Nothing that a remap and a delete pipe won't sort out.

Or you can buy a reasonably inexpensive scan tool and do a force burn every now and again.

[El_Freddo]

And an EA81 would be an upgrade in the L series over the EA82... bullet proof without the rubber bands to run the cams

An even better upgrade would be the Diesel. No rubber bands, awesome ECU remap potential, and mind-numbing torque off idle.

When they come down in price, I might look at sandwiching one into an unsuspecting wagon...

Yeah that would be awesome - you’ll definitely want AWD with that monster out front!

Cheers

Bennie

[johnnyjoejoejr]

Update on the moneypit: got a second-hand motor from the wreckers to go in. The motor was in a running car, has good compression on all cylinders. Has been rebuilt at some point, it has the heat tags on the back of the block that fall off when the motor is cooked, and the block is very clean. Replacing all the seals, timing belt and thrust bearing while the motor is out, clutch plate from my original motor is the better of the two so we'll swap that over as well.

Only other change is going to be moving to a manual choke, the new motor has the better looking carb, the electric choke sounds like it has a few problems. Had a good look underneath while it was on the hoist, the advantage of being the 2WD model is it hasn't been bashed around so the undercarriage is pretty neat. CV joints, boots and bushes all look good, exhaust is good except for the muffler. Just trying to decide wether I get a cheap replacement of the muffler, or bite the bullet and put a new 2 1/4 inch system in. I don't want to spend more money than I have already, but I've already come this far...

[L-Rex]

Glad you are getting some success!

2.25" exhaust is way too big, you will lose all your low end torque. 2" is just fine, even with a Weber, cams and ported heads.

[johnnyjoejoejr]

Been a while and not much has happened, checked in with my mechanic to see how things were going. Replacement engine, reconditioned steering rack, rear shockers and muffler are all in, basically all thats left is to reconfigure all the vacuum hoses and paperwork for roadworthy. He's on crutches after knee surgery which would help to explain the delay, but I'd also told him I wasn't in a rush which was a mistake on my part. My girlfriend and I have split in that time so getting it on the road has now become more of a priority, since we're currently sharing a car.

With any luck it will have licence plates bolted on in the next couple of weeks, fingers crossed I'll have more updates soon.

[El_Freddo]

... I'd also told him I wasn't in a rush which was a mistake on my part. My girlfriend and I have split in that time so getting it on the road has now become more of a priority, since we're currently sharing a car.

With any luck it will have licence plates bolted on in the next couple of weeks, fingers crossed I'll have more updates soon.

I hope it's on the road sooner rather than later! That doesn't sound like much of a fun

All the best!

Cheers

Bennie

[johnnyjoejoejr]

The day that I thought would never arrived has finally arrived. Roadworthy, registered, and back from the dead. Everyone, meet Beatrice...



The mechanic has done a pretty great job from what I can tell so far, he charged me a lot but was very thorough, fixed a lot of little niggles, threw in some freebies and kept everything neat and original. He even washed the engine bay and gave it the whole car a wash and vacuum.

The starter motor will replacing in the near future, it struggles to turn over at times, particulary when hot starting. Mechanic was aware of this, most likely a short in the starter somewhere drawing too many volts? The original AM/FM Radio barely works, tailgate doesn't always close properly, a few rattles here and there and a bit of cosmetic stuff, but it's all these little jobs that made me want the car in the first place.

Will clock up a heap of kms in the next few weeks, I'm aiming to drive her along the NSW south coast next month if everything seems cherry ripe.

[El_Freddo]

Awesome! (Pics aren’t woeking on my phone - could be my phone having the issue though)

With the starter motor make sure the batter leads are in good condition. If they’re the skinny ones upgrade them to a larger gauge wire. Ensure there’s a direct negative cable from battery to engine block.

Do your tailgate struts still hold the tailgate up properly? I’ve got a set of regassed or replacement units on mine and they’re ace. I keep forgetting about the old falling tailgate saga when they’re basically dead!

Enjoy the ride!

Cheers

Bennie

[EA82GT]

Pics not come through on my lapstop hot spotted to my phone either.

Go the EA82!

formerly known as jono, then steptoe .....

[johnnyjoejoejr]

With the starter motor make sure the batter leads are in good condition. If they’re the skinny ones upgrade them to a larger gauge wire. Ensure there’s a direct negative cable from battery to engine block

Cabling and contacts all look pretty good, checked the part number on the starter and discovered it was from an auto, not a manual. You'd probably know, but the manual unit has a longer drive. Seems to have fixed the issue.

Do your tailgate struts still hold the tailgate up properly?

Regassed the struts to pass roadworthy, no issue there. The tailgate doesn't latch shut completely unless you really slam it, would probably explain the wheelbarrow load of dust I've vacuumed out of the back. There is a big split in the steel where the boot latch bolts in, which I would assume would allow the latch to flex and move when closing. Will weld it up and see if I can reinforce it with a bit of extra steel next time I'm on the farm.

Will try uploading photos using a different method, fingers crossed this works

[johnnyjoejoejr]

Finally worked out the image posting issue, here's a bonus pic from a drive in the Dandenongs on Sunday.



I'll probably stop posting on this thread now that I'm up and running, now I hope to make more of a contribution instead of seeking free advice! Thank you all for your support so far!

[rodmcdonald]

You just need to get by the DPF issue.

It's city driving, and zero freeway driving, that kills the DPF

Nothing that a remap and a delete pipe won't sort out.

Or you can buy a reasonably inexpensive scan tool and do a force burn every now and again.

I have a 2010 Outback Diesel, which reasonably inexpensive scan tool will allow me to do a force burn?