Water Crossings, How deep will a L series with 2" lift
Water Crossings, How deep will a L series with 2" lift
I am heading out to Byfield national park and we have had some rain, there are a few creeks and water crossings. Anyone have experiance in getting through fresh water creeks> How far above the bumper can we go.
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PeeJay
- Junior Member
- Posts: 685
- Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Riverstone, Sydney
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In my old MY wagon with no lift I could make it through 65cm, just. In my RX turbo with no lift I didn't make it through 45cm 
The air intake on the RX was very bad, where as the MY had it way up high. If your L series is EFI take it easy, the air intake is inside the right hand mudguard, as opposed to the carby one up the top of the engine.
The air intake on the RX was very bad, where as the MY had it way up high. If your L series is EFI take it easy, the air intake is inside the right hand mudguard, as opposed to the carby one up the top of the engine.
I agree wiht PeeJay to an extent. I am running EA82T in an L with 2" of lift... not sure on actual deapth as i did/have not measured. We have had water over the bonnet at least 2 times and regular crossings at grill level in the last 4 months and had no issues at all. If you are in doube just wack a snatch on front (and/or rear), and take all water crossing precautions (eg DO NOT pass the bilge wave)
MOST important... Remember to get some pix (and show us).
Enjoy
MOST important... Remember to get some pix (and show us).
Enjoy
I have a carby model and disconnected the air intake from front guard and attached a Pod to the outlet from original air filter. I had found sand in my air filter and it made its way to the carby and inlet manifolds on old motor.
To prevent this I replumbed the air intaked, shielded the Pod from underneath with a plastic milk carton (two litre cut in half and cupped) from underneath. It all looks like a dogs breakfast, but works.
I was only thinking of sand prevention, but it should also shield Pod from water coming up underneath. The new setup is at standard air intake height and above. It goes well and I feel more secure with a double filter.
To prevent this I replumbed the air intaked, shielded the Pod from underneath with a plastic milk carton (two litre cut in half and cupped) from underneath. It all looks like a dogs breakfast, but works.
I was only thinking of sand prevention, but it should also shield Pod from water coming up underneath. The new setup is at standard air intake height and above. It goes well and I feel more secure with a double filter.
i wouldn't be focusing just my attention to the air intake.
also make sure that the water doesnt foul other things within the motor, paying particular attention to the front timing belt sprockets and bearings (front and rear). prolonged exposure, or exposure to mud/sand can have a real detrimental effect on these parts, and thus your motor.
QLD Subaru 4wd Club Have a good tech page on this topic also
Also another issue that isnt covered are wheel bearings. Do a few water crossings, and within a few months, you can kiss your bearings goodbye. Replace them with sealed ones. As to the part numbers, perhaps someone would be as so kind to quote numbers. There is a thread floating around here with the info you need on these.
Also make sure your diff and gearbox breather lines are up to scratch and located high up.
there are probably a couple more issues that i havent covered.
hope this helps
alex.
also make sure that the water doesnt foul other things within the motor, paying particular attention to the front timing belt sprockets and bearings (front and rear). prolonged exposure, or exposure to mud/sand can have a real detrimental effect on these parts, and thus your motor.
QLD Subaru 4wd Club Have a good tech page on this topic also
Also another issue that isnt covered are wheel bearings. Do a few water crossings, and within a few months, you can kiss your bearings goodbye. Replace them with sealed ones. As to the part numbers, perhaps someone would be as so kind to quote numbers. There is a thread floating around here with the info you need on these.
Also make sure your diff and gearbox breather lines are up to scratch and located high up.
there are probably a couple more issues that i havent covered.
hope this helps
alex.
1998 Subaru Legacy GTB
The timing belt covers are the lowest point of issue. It would probably be working through these points and sealing things a bit better.
I was not going to prolonged water crossings, just if there is no other way home on a sunny morning but an inch of rain falls afternoon. Diff venting is another good idea. How would sealing timing belt covers with silastic go, I have just replace them and dont expect a look for another 100,000 klms and will probably have motor out by then.
I should have thought of this stuff when the motor was on the bench a few months ago.
I will take a look at the link. In another 4wd I had the diffs had vent lines which came upto and behind brake booster on firewall.
what about the little black box near the dizzy? A mechanic told me "not" to get it wet, and I have used a rubber glove over the dizzy in the old MY I had. That was a wet week on Fraser.
I was not going to prolonged water crossings, just if there is no other way home on a sunny morning but an inch of rain falls afternoon. Diff venting is another good idea. How would sealing timing belt covers with silastic go, I have just replace them and dont expect a look for another 100,000 klms and will probably have motor out by then.
I should have thought of this stuff when the motor was on the bench a few months ago.
I will take a look at the link. In another 4wd I had the diffs had vent lines which came upto and behind brake booster on firewall.
what about the little black box near the dizzy? A mechanic told me "not" to get it wet, and I have used a rubber glove over the dizzy in the old MY I had. That was a wet week on Fraser.
Ignition Systems
In older vehicles there is a coil, a distributor and spark plugs. Water can enter the distributor and cause shorts inside the distributor cap and under the caps of spark plugs. Water can also short out the spark plug leads if there are cracks in the insulation.
Newer vehicles don’t have a distributor, but still have spark plugs and leads. In some cases the spark plugs are inside the heads and are protected from water. But if the leads are perished, water can still short them out. In newer vehicles there are also computers controlling the motor, gearbox, etc, which can also be affected by water.
In older vehicles silastic was used to seal the distributor cap and spark plugs. The same can be done on newer vehicles.
In older vehicles there is a coil, a distributor and spark plugs. Water can enter the distributor and cause shorts inside the distributor cap and under the caps of spark plugs. Water can also short out the spark plug leads if there are cracks in the insulation.
Newer vehicles don’t have a distributor, but still have spark plugs and leads. In some cases the spark plugs are inside the heads and are protected from water. But if the leads are perished, water can still short them out. In newer vehicles there are also computers controlling the motor, gearbox, etc, which can also be affected by water.
In older vehicles silastic was used to seal the distributor cap and spark plugs. The same can be done on newer vehicles.
Plagerism
Air Cleaners
Water can enter the air cleaner and stop the air flow or be sucked in and stop the engine.
Older vehicles' air intakes were usually in the centre of the engine bay above the carburettor. It was easy to fit a piece of pipe that could be run to the back of the engine bay where there was less chance to suck in water. Newer vehicles have air intakes either behind the headlight or between the top of the grille and the bonnet. These air intakes are designed to ram air into the air cleaner, the trouble is that they also ram water into the air filter. The better designed air inlet systems have water traps, which remove the water before it can enter the air filter. The safest system is to have a snorkel fitted.
Before Crossing
Do you really need to drive through the water? Is there another way or a shallower crossing? Anything above doorsill height deserves caution. Vehicles can float and water can enter the cabin.
Deep water crossings should never be attempted alone, except in an emergency.
Before you enter any water, you must check the path you plan to take to find any big rocks or deep holes hidden under the water and to check the firmness of the bottom and the current flow.
A radiator blind prevents water being forced through the front grille, then through the radiator core resulting in flooding of the engine bay. Removing or loosening the fan belt will prevent the fan blade from being driven into the radiator and splashing water all over the engine. If you have electric fans, turn them off. Also turn off the air conditioner. If the engine and transmission are very hot consider letting them cool down before entering the water; especially engines fitted with turbo chargers.
The Crossing
Enter the water slowly, then increase your speed to build a bow wave and maintain the momentum, which effectively lowers the water level around the engine and behind the vehicle. Driving too fast could cause water to surge over the bonnet and flood the engine bay. Don’t change gear while in the water. Travel diagonally to the current flow. If you start floating, open a door and fill the vehicle with water.
After Crossing
On leaving the water, always drive a short distance with the foot brake lightly depressed to dry out the brake linings.
Upon returning home after water crossings, check the diff and gearbox oils for water contamination, especially after long or deep water immersions.
Ron Penfold SC002
Water can enter the air cleaner and stop the air flow or be sucked in and stop the engine.
Older vehicles' air intakes were usually in the centre of the engine bay above the carburettor. It was easy to fit a piece of pipe that could be run to the back of the engine bay where there was less chance to suck in water. Newer vehicles have air intakes either behind the headlight or between the top of the grille and the bonnet. These air intakes are designed to ram air into the air cleaner, the trouble is that they also ram water into the air filter. The better designed air inlet systems have water traps, which remove the water before it can enter the air filter. The safest system is to have a snorkel fitted.
Before Crossing
Do you really need to drive through the water? Is there another way or a shallower crossing? Anything above doorsill height deserves caution. Vehicles can float and water can enter the cabin.
Deep water crossings should never be attempted alone, except in an emergency.
Before you enter any water, you must check the path you plan to take to find any big rocks or deep holes hidden under the water and to check the firmness of the bottom and the current flow.
A radiator blind prevents water being forced through the front grille, then through the radiator core resulting in flooding of the engine bay. Removing or loosening the fan belt will prevent the fan blade from being driven into the radiator and splashing water all over the engine. If you have electric fans, turn them off. Also turn off the air conditioner. If the engine and transmission are very hot consider letting them cool down before entering the water; especially engines fitted with turbo chargers.
The Crossing
Enter the water slowly, then increase your speed to build a bow wave and maintain the momentum, which effectively lowers the water level around the engine and behind the vehicle. Driving too fast could cause water to surge over the bonnet and flood the engine bay. Don’t change gear while in the water. Travel diagonally to the current flow. If you start floating, open a door and fill the vehicle with water.
After Crossing
On leaving the water, always drive a short distance with the foot brake lightly depressed to dry out the brake linings.
Upon returning home after water crossings, check the diff and gearbox oils for water contamination, especially after long or deep water immersions.
Ron Penfold SC002
If you take the time to tarp the front of your car and disconnect your fans (if they are thermo fans, not much you can do about the belt driven ones) to prevent splashing you can go quite deep. Be aware of water entering your gearbox via the dipstick, clear plastic hose as a breather extension is not a bad way to go. Same for the diff, the breather will let water in so to extend the breather by hose (upto near the fuel filler neck is a common spot) I have taken a brumby to the point it was beginning to float, bow wave was about 2 inches up the windscreen, but it did require the right preparation. Wheel bearings will definately complain if you do this on a regulat basis, sealed units or a grease nipple installed by your local engineering workshop could be the way to go if you want to get your feet wet on a regular basis
Heres some pics for you, this is a 2" lifted l series on 14" rims
http://community.webshots.com/myphotos? ... ity=tWguoE
http://community.webshots.com/myphotos? ... ity=bxQprL
Heres some pics for you, this is a 2" lifted l series on 14" rims
http://community.webshots.com/myphotos? ... ity=tWguoE
http://community.webshots.com/myphotos? ... ity=bxQprL
ASPRO, yes thats what I was wanting to hear.
and JAFFA, Yes I do !
But the Penfold write up said to be TOO carefull, sometimes you might just have to get home.
It is comforting to hear of a bow wave upto atleast windscreen, I can throw a little caution to the wind.
I would be hoping the water stops the air intake and stalls the engine before it bends valves. Air compresses but liquid resists compression at the rate of a 4 stroke engine.
ASPRO your pics did not work. I tried a Kodak site which did the same thing so I set up a webpage at "Blogger.com"
I have a few BLOGGER WEBPAGES (FREE) and set this one up just for pics online. That site is where my pics now come from.
ASPRO, the three steps to start posting images took about 20 minutes start to finish at Blogger. It has an easy image search engine which scans you pictures on hard drive then you just select what you want to show.
I just added the above pic and got its URL in the middle of a post
and JAFFA, Yes I do !
But the Penfold write up said to be TOO carefull, sometimes you might just have to get home.
It is comforting to hear of a bow wave upto atleast windscreen, I can throw a little caution to the wind.
I would be hoping the water stops the air intake and stalls the engine before it bends valves. Air compresses but liquid resists compression at the rate of a 4 stroke engine.
ASPRO your pics did not work. I tried a Kodak site which did the same thing so I set up a webpage at "Blogger.com"
I have a few BLOGGER WEBPAGES (FREE) and set this one up just for pics online. That site is where my pics now come from.
ASPRO, the three steps to start posting images took about 20 minutes start to finish at Blogger. It has an easy image search engine which scans you pictures on hard drive then you just select what you want to show.
I just added the above pic and got its URL in the middle of a post
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tim_81coupe
- General Member
- Posts: 1693
- Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Perth
smoov wrote: Also another issue that isnt covered are wheel bearings. Do a few water crossings, and within a few months, you can kiss your bearings goodbye. Replace them with sealed ones. As to the part numbers, perhaps someone would be as so kind to quote numbers. There is a thread floating around here with the info you need on these.
Nerd to the rescue! The normal units are a 6207 bearing, 35 ID, 72 OD, 17mm wide. To get a sealed one, use the number 6207ZZ. This bearing is entirely metal cased and pre-lubricated. However it costs about twice as much as a standard bearing, but I'd say its worth it if you want to come into contact with water on a regular basis.
82 MY Wagon, EJ20G
87 RX, EJ20G
89 Brumby, EA81
12 BRZ, FA20
87 RX, EJ20G
89 Brumby, EA81
12 BRZ, FA20