Mobile mechanics in Melbourne?
Mobile mechanics in Melbourne?
Kez again... yes I always return with my endless queries about Suby mechanics. Thanks to you who pointed me to the Clayton mechanics, they never did me wrong. Until recently seized by a fit of laziness (well I live in Brunswick!) I decided to use Rhodes and Heron at the roundabout on St Georges Rd in Northcote for a simple service+tune. Did he spot anything odd that might need attending to? He said no.
All seemed well (although they set the revs a bit low for my liking) until the next time I went to drive it (we don't use the car daily). A strange loud, 'dry' rattling noise clunked around near the part of the engine that would be nearish to where the steering wheel is. it disappeared after the car had been running for about 20seconds.
The next time I used the car a couple of days later again, the noise was there, but again disappeared. Two days after, the car started, the noise was a lot louder, and the engine lost power 2mtrs down the road; now it won't start (will try to turn but gets nowhere).
sooooooooooo I was hoping someone might recommend a mobile mechanic who's good with Subys... i'm no expecting a miracle. I suspect I will have to get it towed somewhere.
All seemed well (although they set the revs a bit low for my liking) until the next time I went to drive it (we don't use the car daily). A strange loud, 'dry' rattling noise clunked around near the part of the engine that would be nearish to where the steering wheel is. it disappeared after the car had been running for about 20seconds.
The next time I used the car a couple of days later again, the noise was there, but again disappeared. Two days after, the car started, the noise was a lot louder, and the engine lost power 2mtrs down the road; now it won't start (will try to turn but gets nowhere).
sooooooooooo I was hoping someone might recommend a mobile mechanic who's good with Subys... i'm no expecting a miracle. I suspect I will have to get it towed somewhere.
'sall good, guess I will probably just get atow or something.
While I've started an otherwise useless topic, maybe someone could help me out: What should I expect to pay for a new heater coil? I was quoted around $250 so am thinking of trying to source some secondhand ones.
Also, those things which hold your hatch up (you know, with gas in them, when you open your rear hatch they stop it from falling on your head), what are those things called? I'd love to get mine replaced, but I don't know what to ask for haha! totally slipped my mind...
One day I'd love to get my car resprayed too... anyone had any good experiences in Melbourne town getting that done?
While I've started an otherwise useless topic, maybe someone could help me out: What should I expect to pay for a new heater coil? I was quoted around $250 so am thinking of trying to source some secondhand ones.
Also, those things which hold your hatch up (you know, with gas in them, when you open your rear hatch they stop it from falling on your head), what are those things called? I'd love to get mine replaced, but I don't know what to ask for haha! totally slipped my mind...
One day I'd love to get my car resprayed too... anyone had any good experiences in Melbourne town getting that done?
the things that stop the tailgate falling on your head are called gas struts...haha! theres a bloke in essendon i think (look in yellow pages) I went to he can re-gass yours or give swapovers i think charged $20 each. what model is your car?
timmo
timmo
L series wagon EA82T (RIP)
'92 Liberty RS Turbo
GU Patrol Ute
Honda XR400R
'92 Liberty RS Turbo
GU Patrol Ute
Honda XR400R
Just raid them (the gas struts) from a wreckers donor car, make sure the lengths are the same (approx), I used Mazda 626 / 80s Ford Telstar struts as they are designed for the large hatch on those models. Cost $5 a piece from my one of my local wreckers and they have a huge bucket of them out the front. If you can push the strut ends together by hand they're worn out - if you put one end on the ground and can slowly force the other end down they're still good.
Heater coil - I think yours is an L wagon from your other posts ? I believe the L is a PITA to change heater coils (or most things under the dash for that matter) so I'd probably stick with a new unit.
Repainting - honestly, I would never trust a painter/panel beater with my car. They cut corners everywhere to save time. If you were going to get it painted, at least do the prep work yourself (sanding at a minimum). If the body is straight and paint is just faded you could get one of those $400 paintjobs - but again, prep everything you can (remove trim, bumpers, etc) and let them shoot the car only.
Dean.
Heater coil - I think yours is an L wagon from your other posts ? I believe the L is a PITA to change heater coils (or most things under the dash for that matter) so I'd probably stick with a new unit.
Repainting - honestly, I would never trust a painter/panel beater with my car. They cut corners everywhere to save time. If you were going to get it painted, at least do the prep work yourself (sanding at a minimum). If the body is straight and paint is just faded you could get one of those $400 paintjobs - but again, prep everything you can (remove trim, bumpers, etc) and let them shoot the car only.
Dean.
1989 Brumby - Shiny new red paint, stroked EJ20 phase 2 SOHC with Darton sleeves bored to EJ22, Wiseco high-compression pistons, Delta 2000 grind cams , EJ/XT6 5 stud with WRX 4/2 pots, 5-speed, 86 GTS seats and so much more.
Contact me for reproduction XT6 hubs...and EA82 rear discs.
Contact me for reproduction XT6 hubs...and EA82 rear discs.
Thank you for the tip on the gas struts, I probably never knew them by that name. I was told you couldn't regass them, maybe they just meant they couldn't regass them.
Do you think my engine trouble could be related to the heater coil issue? Basically we had coolant leaking onto the floor of the front passenger side. The guy said it was the heater coil, but as I couldn't afford to immediately replace it, he said he'd close the coil, so it wouldn't leak anymore but we wouldn't have a heater(warmth).
I was wondering if it could be related...
Yes it's an '89 L Series
(although my insurance company and the RACV say such a thing cannot exist, apparently it's not on their list... so on the books I think it's a sportswagon... which is crap because it doesn't have the raised roof - but after all that I came away as confused as they did hehe)
Do you think my engine trouble could be related to the heater coil issue? Basically we had coolant leaking onto the floor of the front passenger side. The guy said it was the heater coil, but as I couldn't afford to immediately replace it, he said he'd close the coil, so it wouldn't leak anymore but we wouldn't have a heater(warmth).
I was wondering if it could be related...
Yes it's an '89 L Series
(although my insurance company and the RACV say such a thing cannot exist, apparently it's not on their list... so on the books I think it's a sportswagon... which is crap because it doesn't have the raised roof - but after all that I came away as confused as they did hehe)
>>you think my engine trouble could be related to the heater coil issue?
I'm no mechanic but I would say no - the heater coil seems to be a common issue with L series, the one I had briefly had the exact same problem and the same solution was used by another mechanic (before I got the car). I'd check for spark and fuel delivery to the carb bowel, and if they're ok get a auto electrician to have a look at it.
I think sportwagon's have the standard roofline, only the touring got the raised roof. Again, the L series I had (also an 89) was a sportwagon and it had the standard roof. I'm not an expert on L-series, though...
The USMB guys (and gals) might be more helpful on the non-starting issue - they seem dedicated to cheap DIY repairs
Dean.
I'm no mechanic but I would say no - the heater coil seems to be a common issue with L series, the one I had briefly had the exact same problem and the same solution was used by another mechanic (before I got the car). I'd check for spark and fuel delivery to the carb bowel, and if they're ok get a auto electrician to have a look at it.
I think sportwagon's have the standard roofline, only the touring got the raised roof. Again, the L series I had (also an 89) was a sportwagon and it had the standard roof. I'm not an expert on L-series, though...
The USMB guys (and gals) might be more helpful on the non-starting issue - they seem dedicated to cheap DIY repairs

Dean.
1989 Brumby - Shiny new red paint, stroked EJ20 phase 2 SOHC with Darton sleeves bored to EJ22, Wiseco high-compression pistons, Delta 2000 grind cams , EJ/XT6 5 stud with WRX 4/2 pots, 5-speed, 86 GTS seats and so much more.
Contact me for reproduction XT6 hubs...and EA82 rear discs.
Contact me for reproduction XT6 hubs...and EA82 rear discs.
Hey Kez,if you got an L series and its got a EA82 engine (SOHC) and it has stripped a timing belt, the good news is that you probably wont have any bent valves.With any luck a new cambelt will get it going again, but if I was you I would get a canic to set the timing,as it can be tricky to get both sides spot on.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Busdriver, 91 L Enduro Wagon, stock ,for now.
Lots of Ks,A/C, MP3 sometimes(if its not dark) singing steering wheel cover which I listen too when its dark.
Suby Newbie
Lots of Ks,A/C, MP3 sometimes(if its not dark) singing steering wheel cover which I listen too when its dark.
Suby Newbie
thanks for the glimmer of hope Busdriver, hehe. Not to sound bleak, but it's that damn time of year when money's mostly absent anyway! Well it's getting towed shortly... all I can do is wait now (and pray my the tax return estimate was well, well under what it will end up being, lol) Really appreciate the replies by the way 
