Dud Leone, Need advice

hsv88 · Post by **hsv88** » Sun Dec 09, 2007 7:21 pm

G'day, I found a 1982 Leone for $800. Thought it was an alright deal even though it had some obvoius body damage, so i brought it.

But when I took it for a Roadworthy last week and the mechanic hit me with a massive list of repairs to do and he said "If I was you mate I wouldn't bother fixing it, I'd go damand my money back". I got shafted by this dodgy seller and I don't know what do to.

Heres the list:

Now the mechanic reckons the rust in the back panel is real bad and i need to replace the whole thing. In his opinion, all up it would cost me a couple of grand to get the thing on the road.

Does it seem like this guy is too picky? What should I do?

P.S sorry is this is in the wrong section, I'm new

brumbyrunner · Post by **brumbyrunner** » Sun Dec 09, 2007 8:09 pm

You buy an unregistered, unroadworthy, 25 year old car for $800 and expect what? Sure you can get a bargain, deceased estate, going overseas etc. but $800? Thats a set of quality tyres and a tank of fuel.

My advice is to sell it for what you can get. Perhaps to a wrecker and start again. You might be able to pick up a nice clean example with air and p/s for $2000-$2500. The other alternative (to spending $2000 on a damaged, rusted out car) is to restore it yourself. But I will assume you want transportation straight away otherwise you would have started this already.

A mechanic puts his livelihood on the line every time he passed a car as safe. What would you do?
You want to see picky? Try getting an airworthy certificate for a 2nd hand aircraft!

INEEDABEER · Post by **INEEDABEER** » Sun Dec 09, 2007 8:21 pm

Buyer beware.Research is always good thats why this forum exists.

hsv88 · Post by **hsv88** » Sun Dec 09, 2007 9:01 pm

Yeah I didn't expect it to be a real good car, but I really didn't think I'd to have to spend so much on it. I never released a dinted door would be such a big problem.
I guess my question is, would an 82 leone be worth restoring or would i be spending more then the car's worth? I can probably fix the rusted panel and the little things my self but the rest would I'd have to fork out for.
Thanks for a quick replies btw

Matatak · Post by **Matatak** » Sun Dec 09, 2007 9:05 pm

that list aint even to bad dude. if u did the work urself it wuld be rather cheap actually.

the onyl thing i can see to worry about is the Rust depending on how bad it actually is.

hsv88 · Post by **hsv88** » Sun Dec 09, 2007 9:36 pm

yeah like i said the mechanic reckons the whole panel needs replacing which I dont have the tools for, but I'm gunna rub it back tommorow and check it out.
Hopfully a bit of bog and paint will fix that.

But I couldn't do the steering (you can turn the wheels with hands when its on the lift) or the brakes my self and I don't know what "Engine runs on" meens.

brumbyrunner · Post by **brumbyrunner** » Mon Dec 10, 2007 7:03 am

hsv88 wrote:I don't know what "Engine runs on" meens.

The motor does not stop immediately you turn off the key.
Needs a tune-up. Check the timing.

hsv88 · Post by **hsv88** » Mon Dec 10, 2007 7:28 am

Ok cheers Brumby, I think its running too rich coz it blows black smoke when idling, stutters a little with hard acceleration and stinks of fumes. Could that cause it to "Run on"?

fredsub · Post by **fredsub** » Mon Dec 10, 2007 7:44 am

How does a petrol ignition engine run on? I mean if the ignition is cut, no more sparks, I heard in diesels yes.

Might it mean perhaps when the accelerator pedal is depressed, and let go, it "runs on" - that would be a simple $3 fix of the pedal spring + some hours stuffing around replacing it.

The flayed seat belts, if its not too bad, say just fluff on the edges, get the barrel of a warmed up soldering iron and run along the edges.

And no, I also reckon the mechanic was NOT picky but doing his job. He probably saw the first dodgy thing, then pulled out all stops to pick up alot more,

Most of that a handy person could fix themselves, and then leave all the brake job to a pro - maybe allow $1200 ?

but yeah, rusted '82 car....might have more rust than what you know about there....
did the mechanic put it on a hoist to check underneath ?

If the engine is otherwise good, use it as a parts car, and pick up another....this time in better condition.
Good luck with it.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon Dec 10, 2007 9:23 am

buyuing something like your beast is how a lot of us started - not able to afford to pay qualified person to do the repairs

or go have a go and ask either ya money back if it was a trader or another car

what state you in for them to fail you on all that ? some body repair statement ? how much is that to cost you?

hsv88 · Post by **hsv88** » Mon Dec 10, 2007 4:44 pm

steptoe: I live in Vic, I wish I did get it from a trader then I'd have some sort of cover but it was a private sale so theres nothin I can do. If I wanted the work done buy a body repair place it would cost me a good $2000+ but I managed to find a new door for $60 so I think I'll just put that on myself;)

fredsub: the engine plutters for a second or 2 after I turn it off so i guess thats what his talkin about. The guy said its only that one panel thats rusted so hopfully his right.
I got a quoted approx $200 on brake pads and wheel alignment, takin it to a mechanic tommorow for the rest and I'll let you know

sven '2' · Post by **sven '2'** » Mon Dec 10, 2007 5:18 pm

mate, don't feel bad - everyone would has anything to do with cars has lost money on a deal or two...

but don't throw good money after bad - the law of sunken costs will always win, (esp if you are new to cars / not mechaically minded) ie you spend $200 here and there, then you you find rust - start the rust repair, then find structural involvement, may as well keep going, $2000 later you have an $800 car that is now worth $900 (with a tank of PULP)

Cut your loses, continue to do research, join the subie club maybe - here is also a top start - maybe buy another coupe with less problems and build one out of two

goodluck!

Too Many Rubes · Post by **Too Many Rubes** » Mon Dec 10, 2007 5:50 pm

I say find another roadworthy inspector.

"Lower radiator hose"??? Who gives a crap!

Aside from the rust, which impossible to comment on without seeing, it's all just part of operating a car. You could easily have bought a '92 model with the same problems - I mean, "r/h windscreen washer".

Gimme a break.

Although generally the purchase price of a car is an indicator of how much you need to spend in repairs in the future, don't feel too bad if you paid a bit too much - you wouldn't be the first person.

Get your second opinion. See what he says.

brumbyrunner · Post by **brumbyrunner** » Mon Dec 10, 2007 6:47 pm

Too Many Rubes wrote:I say find another roadworthy inspector.

"Lower radiator hose"??? Who gives a crap!

Aside from the rust, which impossible to comment on without seeing, it's all just part of operating a car. You could easily have bought a '92 model with the same problems - I mean, "r/h windscreen washer".

Gimme a break.

Although generally the purchase price of a car is an indicator of how much you need to spend in repairs in the future, don't feel too bad if you paid a bit too much - you wouldn't be the first person.

Get your second opinion. See what he says.

So if you were doing roadworthy inspections, you wouldn't worry about a perished rad hose or non-operating windscreen washer?
Small things and easy to fix, maybe 5 minutes tops, but I think the whole list paints a pretty good picture of the standard of maintenance the car has been receiving.

hsv88 · Post by **hsv88** » Mon Dec 10, 2007 7:12 pm

yeah I think those little thing would be the first thing any mechanic would check. But the interior light was goin a little bit far, it just hangs down a little bit.

Anyway I don't have another $90 to try my chances with another bloke but on the up side, atleast I know exactly what needs to be done.

Sven: That is exactly what I'm worried about, but I'm pretty confident theres no rust in the structural parts its all just cosmedic. I did think about buying a 2nd leone with a blown engine but parts are pretty easy to come by where I live and there reasonably priced too.

littlewhiteute · Post by **littlewhiteute** » Mon Dec 10, 2007 7:50 pm

fredsub wrote:How does a petrol ignition engine run on? I mean if the ignition is cut, no more sparks, I heard in diesels yes.

My word a petrol ignition engine can run on, in many ways.
High idle speed, incorrect ignition timing, glowing carbon deposits in the combustion chamber.
Some engines are more prone than others and comes down to engine design. Can only happen with a carby car, not EFI.

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Mon Dec 10, 2007 8:35 pm

Mate, very first thing I would get the rust areas inspected carefully before you spend more money on it, if the rust is "treatable" and not costly and if you know a mate who is panel beater is good thing to have.
The parts required - they arent really expensive to get if you shop around.
all you need is time and mechanical knowledge to fix the car up and fix the oils, remove brakes and get them machined - you dont need mechanic to do it for you, its cheaper that way - might cost ya around $80 for all 4 brakes.

Wheel Bearings might cost upto $120 (variable not accurate price) for all 4 from CBC.
Belts can be replaced from wreckers - again shop around and get good price - I recommend you Pick a Part if you're in Melbourne.

Depends how bad is the body damage - if its not "sharp" damage then does not affect RWC.
Steering Rank - get another one from wreckers - there is always a few good ones that does not leak.

If it was me - $800 might be a bit much but I would be prepared to do all the work above because I have good mechanical knowledge and in very good knowledge access to wreckers & trade.
Cheers
AP

Suby Wan Kenobi · Post by **Suby Wan Kenobi** » Tue Dec 11, 2007 12:10 am

Either buy another MY style car and use the one you have for as spares or as already stated ditch it and start again on a later model but this time buy one with rego.

Loose items in the interior can become missiles if in an accident and that would be the concern with the interior light being loose.

Too Many Rubes · Post by **Too Many Rubes** » Tue Dec 11, 2007 6:05 am

I still say the mechanic is being petty - trying to drum up business for himself.

You'd think if someone is paying 90 bucks for 20 minutes work it wouldn't be too much effort to stick a pin down the washer nozzle to clear it.
And since when is a radiator hose a safety issue?

My parents got a 'free no obligation brake check' and were told it needed f & r brakes replaced. I checked it and there was nothing wrong with either...

hsv88 · Post by **hsv88** » Tue Dec 11, 2007 7:37 am

I agree this guy was a bit of a wanker but he wasn't trying to scam more money out of me. He told me to get rid of thing and not to try and fix it, so thats not gunna make him any money.

Suby Wan Kenobi: I don't have the money for another car at the moment, thats why a brought an $800 car which I think I will try and fix as I get the cash. I wish I did have an RX though.

Alpine: I took it to a panel shop yesterday and he just told me its not worthy pay him to do it, so he didn't wanna waste his time inpected the rusted panel. Unfortunatly I don't know anyone thats handy in panel beating or anything mechanical, but I should be able to do it myself if its just a matter of bog and paint.

Personally I think Id ruther get the brakes done professionally considering I've never worked on cars before. I'd have to pay someone to do the steering to coz I can't even see where wear is let alone fix it. But things like the oil leak, hoses, ignition and other little things I'll do myself.

The damage in the door isn't sharp at all which is why I was so surprised he failed it. I'll post some pics when I get the time, but really for $60 I might as well replace it anyway.