What my L Series needs, what I've added

[Wagonman]

If the back end toe adjustment is out it can steer the car and you compensate with the steering wheel so essentially crabbing along..

Camber alone generally wont wear out your tyre quickly but combine it with toe being out or in, it will chew the outer or inner wall of the tyres off.

With my L series being lifted and all different suspension all over it, i Just made the camber of the wheels look as normal as possible and set my front toe very close to 0mm more towards the positive (toe out) because being front wheel drive it pulls the wheels closer together when accelerating. The rear toe is more of a hassle so i just left it. When i load it up for the trip its gonna change anyway.. I'll let you know how the wearing goes over my 10k+ km trip fully load doing 100kmh+.

Reality is that everytime you go offroad or over a curb even the alignment is going to change slightly. So first when you get alignments done always ask for a print out proving what they are saying and then monitor the tyre wear/pressures and rotate, balance and do alignments periodically with how the tyres are wearing.

I've seen cars with crazy wearing on them but the alignments have been dead on and its the way they drive or even the route they take. I've also seen the opposite like on my previous L where the specs have been way off but the tyres didnt wear excessively badly..

What im saying is different models have different tendencies and you it takes time to work out what works for your car and your driving style..

[2nd Hand Yank]

it might be crabbing along.

I'll have at least one of our forum members give a test drive to see.

I should ask for a printout...
I had to leave it with them because I was working when they were available.
When I returned, the shop was already shut. (I worked late that day)

[tony]

if the wheel people did not pick up rear wheel misalignment there likely isn't any, but a good way to check is to get someone to drive it for a while while you follow and observe the rear wheels to see how they behave.
if there is a problem there it is possible there has been some damage at some time or the rubbers are worn .
also feel the rear brake drums and front hubs if a brake is not adjusted it might be binding and causing problem, but don't do it after a 50 k drive by then the heat would have affected the drums/hubs anyway. do it every 10 k or so till you get the feel of it.

[2nd Hand Yank]

if the wheel people did not pick up rear wheel misalignment there likely isn't any, but a good way to check is to get someone to drive it for a while while you follow and observe the rear wheels to see how they behave.
if there is a problem there it is possible there has been some damage at some time or the rubbers are worn .
also feel the rear brake drums and front hubs if a brake is not adjusted it might be binding and causing problem, but don't do it after a 50 k drive by then the heat would have affected the drums/hubs anyway. do it every 10 k or so till you get the feel of it.

Do what exactly, every 10 k? (10,000 kms?)

[tony]

after 10 kilometers or so stop the car and feel the hubs to see if they are equally warm, if one is a lot hotter the brakes have seized or need adjusting.
on the other hand you could try doing it without stopping but not recommended.

[2nd Hand Yank]

after 10 kilometers or so stop the car and feel the hubs to see if they are equally warm, if one is a lot hotter the brakes have seized or need adjusting.

on the other hand you could try doing it without stopping but not recommended.

Great idea. Never thought of that.

Well I am a busy bloke.

[El_Freddo]

Yes my problem is camber for the rear tyres,
but I don't know how that affects my vehicle's tracking.

My driverside tyre bottom is inboard slightly. Is this wrong too?

Do a search for instructions on how to fix this. From memory the thread/post was by Andrew_T about how to do the adjustment.

It works well - I've done mine on both sides. You just need to fiddle with the three bolts that hold the hub's arm to the outer arm of the swing arm assembly. It'll make sense when you take a rear wheel off.

Cheers

Bennie

[Alex]

Do a search for instructions on how to fix this. From memory the thread/post was by Andrew_T about how to do the adjustment.

It works well - I've done mine on both sides. You just need to fiddle with the three bolts that hold the hub's arm to the outer arm of the swing arm assembly. It'll make sense when you take a rear wheel off.

Cheers

Bennie

there was a lil thread about doing this only afew days ago.

its as easy as loosening the three bolts with the car in the air, letting it settle for a while then tightening them back up again. We did mine while i was standing on the hub to help it abit haha.

alex

[2nd Hand Yank]

I have a hissing sound that is louder near the driverside.
The bloke who did the electrical work tried to find it,
plugged most of it, but when he did that, it cut out my "vent-airflow"
so I only had air coming out on my feet no matter what vent option was selected.
Today he unplugged what he plugged and I now have vent air again, but hissing.

Any ideas on how to fix this?


**My AP60 cruise-control kit came in today, bought off eBay.

[2nd Hand Yank]

there was a lil thread about doing this only afew days ago.

its as easy as loosening the three bolts with the car in the air, letting it settle for a while then tightening them back up again. We did mine while i was standing on the hub to help it abit haha.

alex

I might try that, if it doesn't get fixed first back at true-track.
I need bearings put in the front, and I heard there's no point in an alignment before that.