any help DE-lifting my subi?

vincentvega · Post by **vincentvega** » Tue Oct 10, 2006 8:25 am

smoov wrote:ahem.

peugeot rims FTW.
don't de-lift your soob.

peugot rims suck ass. a simple set of flares solves his wheel problem

SuBaRiNo · Post by **SuBaRiNo** » Tue Oct 10, 2006 11:50 am

Definately seams to be a link between Subis with bonnet scoops and yellow stickers.

I would also fix your speedo cable too before u take it in.

Dave

BlackMale · Post by **BlackMale** » Tue Oct 10, 2006 12:36 pm

Pug rim looks do suck ass however the rims are great.
Dude sorry to hear… trust me I know what your going through… Oh and if you go to Welshpool they are well informed, again trust me.

All I can say is good luck with it. Oh, and as Tim_81 said go in as they will extend you sticker life.

vincentvega · Post by **vincentvega** » Tue Oct 10, 2006 9:14 pm

i didnt mean looks. pug rims not only dont locate on the center spigot, they also have weird ass wheel nuts that dont locate the rim properly on the hub.

if thats not enough, they are soft as copper and will be out of shape in no time if used offroad.

yes i have had some bad experiences with them

LTurbo · Post by **LTurbo** » Tue Oct 10, 2006 9:37 pm

vincentvega wrote: if thats not enough, they are soft as copper and will be out of shape in no time if used offroad.

The Steel ones? really?
or are you talking about the pug 15" alloys?

rigby · Post by **rigby** » Tue Oct 10, 2006 9:44 pm

u could try the one near across the road from harvey norman its on stock road they did a real shit check when they did mine

Subafury · Post by **Subafury** » Tue Oct 10, 2006 10:40 pm

so welshpool are clued up too. damn. looks like my best bet is in o conner then. bit of a drive from north suburbs- but if ive got more chance ill take it.
ill whack some proper flares on and go in on friday

smoov · Post by **smoov** » Tue Oct 10, 2006 11:07 pm

sorry for the hijack:

i've had the pug rims before, and they were great. never an issue.

steel rims were as tough as they get. sure they're ugly, but so are L series subarus. paint em black, and no one notices.

i don't know what's with all the skirts around here worried about centre spigots. pfft. don't be lame! they were only on for offroad purposes!! all im saying is borrow a set to throw on, to get you through the inspection.

my pug steels were STEEL. not COPPER!!

as for the nuts? they were very clever in design. a royal pain if you didn't have the matching nuts for the wheels, but clever if you had them to match.

man, all these current L series drivers are going soft... nothing like that in the good ol' days!

dane - you're just unlucky me thinks.

vincentvega wrote:suck ass.

are you an expert in this particular field?

D3V1L · Post by **D3V1L** » Tue Oct 10, 2006 11:32 pm

matt...also get ur mum to take ur car through...i have found that has been an advantage to a few of my mates...hehehe

SuBaRiNo · Post by **SuBaRiNo** » Tue Oct 10, 2006 11:46 pm

yeah and get her to take a pack of kids and tell em to smash the joint... they will want to ger her out fast that way.

Dave

Post by **Alex** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 8:39 am

I would highly recommend NOT to go to Welshpool, they're a bunch of dicks, they're hell strict on everything, i failed my log-book test there twice! and they where for bullshit errors!....

tim_81coupe · Post by **tim_81coupe** » Wed Oct 11, 2006 7:17 pm

Welshpool inspection centre... different staff to the Licensing centre.

Incidentally I got my license in Welshpool. 6 years ago (damn I'm old!)

gx_rex · Post by **gx_rex** » Thu Oct 12, 2006 6:38 pm

could always try going regional, like mandurah as they just use the local mechanics instead of the pits.. i know its a drive and a half but my uncle that lives down there has had about 3 or 4 old datto 180b's passed down there in the last few years and they were far from perfect...
otherwise i would say no to welshpool as they have the technical division there and would be the strictest i would imagine.
i know a guy that has been going to warwick every month for about 4 months with a supra as he dont have the cash to get his new tyres so they keep extending his for a month each time, but it dont matter where you go really as they rotate their staff. When i got my car here from NSW i took it to midland which i have never had a problem with in the past, but i got a new guy there that went right through it..
got knocked back for not having covers under the bonnet vents and scoop, as well as uneven tread wear on one tyre, which when it was taken back the next day had a different guy and he agreed that what was picked was over the top.

Subafury · Post by **Subafury** » Mon Oct 16, 2006 7:18 pm

thx for the tips n suggestions guys. i went to o'conner this arvo and my plan - for them not to pick up the lift kit- worked. but theres also some bad news.

after waiting an hour and a bit the guy comesd to me and says: " oh a jacked up subaru" and i was thinkin ah shit- he knows about lift kits. then i had to pay for the inspection in the office so i didnt see him check over the car. when i came out he made me wiggle the steering wheel over the pit- dont know why, then after test drive he says - i gotta write up a big work order now. so 20 mins later whilst im fearing the worst about the lift kit heres (most of) the list.

-rectify torque steering as veers to the left. wheel alignment yeh?
-cover hole in bonnet at scoop. for some reason ur not allowed a scoop unless its factory. so ill just temp swap the bonnet over.
-renew worn ball joints
-exhaust not to hit body. thanks for that good work midas.
-leaking brake master cylinder
- passenger seatbelt doesnt retract properly
-adjust handbrake
-engine to be silent throughout gear changes ie not to emit noise through air filter etc. nooooo not my flutter!

so yeh the list is alright, although a little bullshit, but im glad he didnt pick up the 3" lift after seeing the jacked up soob.

tim_81coupe · Post by **tim_81coupe** » Mon Oct 16, 2006 7:26 pm

Sounds fairly good mate. My reccomendations are:

-Wheel alignment. Do this after ball joints.
-Do the bonnet swap. Consider in the long term a swap to a WAIC, I am a firm beleiver that your scoop played a big role in getting the sticker in the first place.
-Balljoints are cheap, shouldn't cost more than about $18 each. BJ257 is the part number.
-Where is the exhaust hitting the body? Fairly simple to resolve hopefully.
-Any brake shop should be able to sort the master cylinder out... take it out yourself and take it into a shop for a hone & new seal kit at the very least. Worst case scenario is a replacement.
-Take the passenger seatbelt out and play with the retractor a bit. You'll probably find you can free it up a little with some white grease, failing that you may need to get another one.
-Handbrake is the easiest on the list. Wind the little nuts in a bit.
-What's your airbox situation? Got a high flow filter in it? Whack an el-cheapo paper element in it and make sure the snorkel thingo from in the guard is still connected. Wind the boost down a bit and remove any BOV you might have (for the time being!)

Thats my $4.53.

D3V1L · Post by **D3V1L** » Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:34 pm

thats good news matt from memory u said u didnt have the standard air box SO you can borrow mine if u want temporarily to cover up the flutter and what not...anything else let me know... dave

SuBaRiNo · Post by **SuBaRiNo** » Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 pm

I can't add anymore... Tim got it in one... Refit your stock air box... remove pod.

Dave

waggaclint · Post by **waggaclint** » Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:57 pm

yep i agree tims got it one....

timmo · Post by **timmo** » Mon Oct 16, 2006 9:01 pm

Hey Subi - are you running an air to air intercooler? whats it out of? I'm thinking about intercooling options - I know the a WAIC from an RS is a good option but i'm kinda interested in an air to air IC.
Cheers

Subafury · Post by **Subafury** » Mon Oct 16, 2006 10:09 pm

yep uve got all the answers tim.
except as u might of read ive got a pod filter on and will have to try and fit my factory airbox back in and stuff some rags or something in it to muffle my wastegate flutter sound. D3V1L also suggested putting his boost controller in and tryin to wind that down a bit. less boost/air= less flutter.
ive found a bonnet already.
the exhaust should be easy- ill just bend the tip down from the bumper a little.
ball joints- easy enough to do myself?
and would my mechanic be able to reseal master cylinder? or have to go to brake shop? (in which case who?)