What did you do to improve your soobie today

thunder039 · Post by **thunder039** » Mon May 14, 2012 10:54 am

thats sad to hear bennie seeming you just got it on the road

purp · Post by **purp** » Mon May 14, 2012 12:13 pm

Put a Bluetooth kit into the Foz (the family car) yesterday. I never really have enjoyed anything to do with removing trim and working behind dashes, but I was pleasantly surprised by the forester. I didn't even break any of those little plastic clips...

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Mon May 14, 2012 4:38 pm

steptoe wrote:just natural for getting hot, it is when it keeps doing it when driving is where you have done yer gasket. Don't think you can do a gasket just idling hot either - for your sake hope all is fine

Dunno about that, without anything cooling the engine and it steaming away I'm sure plenty of damage could be done.

So far though things are looking good. I'm hoping that it's all good and that nothing will show up anytime soon - or for the next 100k km!

nachaluva wrote:Sorry to hear bout your engine Bennie. have you thought about putting a buzzer on the "off" position so you cant forget or not notice?

thunder039 wrote:thats sad to hear bennie seeming you just got it on the road

Yeah I guess shit happens when you're complacent. So this is what I've got now, at $6.95 I couldn't go past it, no buzzers, and is very simple, when close the fans are at the "auto" position:

This is it when it's open, spring loaded too so when it closes it flicks the switch to Auto from either Off or On positions:

And I can still select the "On" position too, Off can be as well, I was going to post a pic of that but it's overkill to show the point of this rocket or missile cover:

So now I wait for a week or two to see what happens with the HG's. But early indications say that it's going to be a-ok!

Next will be properly mounting it on the dash somewhere. Just need to nut out something to make it look good, I've got a few switches to mount

Cheers

Bennie

2nd Hand Yank · Post by **2nd Hand Yank** » Mon May 14, 2012 6:07 pm

Your motor died too Bennie?

I got started on my AP 60 kit.
Actuator installed but nothing else yet.
Secured the throttle cable attachment to an empty threaded hole on top of the transmission.

Replaced a broken vacuum t-fitting for hopefully smoother running and more power.
Still pretty slow though.

Thinking about getting an EJ22 and custom longer travel struts.
I've never been stuck in my L Series but I've done a fair bit of severe bottoming and topping.
Seems to make more sense than focusing on just an EJ and limited-slip or locked dif.
Limited slip would be nice, but I think I can get by without it.

Or maybe I should just do all three?

Is a limited slip front differential hard to find?

B00sting · Post by **B00sting** » Mon May 14, 2012 7:53 pm

2nd Hand Yank wrote:Your motor died too Bennie?

I got started on my AP 60 kit.
Actuator installed but nothing else yet.
Secured the throttle cable attachment to an empty threaded hole on top of the transmission.

Replaced a broken vacuum t-fitting for hopefully smoother running and more power.
Still pretty slow though.

Thinking about getting an EJ22 and custom longer travel struts.
I've never been stuck in my L Series but I've done a fair bit of severe bottoming and topping.
Seems to make more sense than focusing on just an EJ and limited-slip or locked dif.
Limited slip would be nice, but I think I can get by without it.

Or maybe I should just do all three?

Is a limited slip front differential hard to find?

Personally I think your on the right track here.
Whats the point in having an upgraded driveline for off-roading if you don't have any extra clearance to back it up?

Sure I can take my brumby up some crazy stuff, but the reality is I will do damage sooner or later without a decent lift/bash-guards.

Exactly what i'm doing, except i'm upgrading everything (bar a locker) at once.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Mon May 14, 2012 9:58 pm

2nd Hand Yank wrote:Your motor died too Bennie?

No - at least so far! I'm still keeping a keen eye on it but so far so good. Hopefully it's stay this way for a long time to come.

2nd Hand Yank wrote:I got started on my AP 60 kit.

This is what I've got - you'll love it! Here's some pics of my install, you might do yours differently but I'm very happy with mine! The control unit was cable tied to the steering column above the kick panel. Pics:

Actuator:

Speed sensor mounted off the back of the gearbox:

And the control pad location - some serious drilling action was done to fit the control pad in this location, but it looks tops and is a great spot for it:

2nd Hand Yank wrote:Thinking about getting an EJ22 and custom longer travel struts.
Is a limited slip front differential hard to find?

Longer travel struts are good - until you try to extend past what the CV joints can handle. But it can be done by using a different strut and removing your strut's lift blocks. Been done before.

Front LSD - well it depends on what you're after and how much you want to spend. Like Venom I've gone for a mechanical LSD from the states via fleabay. Get on ebay.com/motors and search subaru LSD. It's about $500.00 plus postage (about ~$160)

I'm looking forward to the LSD

Cheers

Bennie

2nd Hand Yank · Post by **2nd Hand Yank** » Tue May 15, 2012 7:22 am

B00sting wrote:Personally I think your on the right track here.
Whats the point in having an upgraded driveline for off-roading if you don't have any extra clearance to back it up?

Sure I can take my brumby up some crazy stuff, but the reality is I will do damage sooner or later without a decent lift/bash-guards.

Exactly what i'm doing, except i'm upgrading everything (bar a locker) at once.

Thanks.

When I bought my L Series it already had bigger tyres (185/70R-14)
and a 2 inch lift from "lift-blocks" attached to the struts and some body lift.
Plus it has a decent aluminium roo-bar that replaced the factory front bumper.
So even aired-down, my Soobie isn't too bad.

I have heard of others going to a 3" lift,
both from more blocks (suspension + body lift)
and Matt who has a 3" lift in his Brumby from custom struts alone.

So yeah, I want another 1 inch of lift, either way
but I'm thinking having longer travel will help protect everthing in my car from hard impacts and add some comfort.

You're doing everything all at once?
How long do you think that will take?

I'm considering doing the suspension + EJ at the same time,
since both are supposed to require an engineer's approval.

2nd Hand Yank · Post by **2nd Hand Yank** » Tue May 15, 2012 7:23 am

El_Freddo wrote:No - at least so far! I'm still keeping a keen eye on it but so far so good. Hopefully it's stay this way for a long time to come.

This is what I've got - you'll love it! Here's some pics of my install, you might do yours differently but I'm very happy with mine! The control unit was cable tied to the steering column above the kick panel. Pics:

Actuator:

Speed sensor mounted off the back of the gearbox:

And the control pad location - some serious drilling action was done to fit the control pad in this location, but it looks tops and is a great spot for it:

Longer travel struts are good - until you try to extend past what the CV joints can handle. But it can be done by using a different strut and removing your strut's lift blocks. Been done before.

Front LSD - well it depends on what you're after and how much you want to spend. Like Venom I've gone for a mechanical LSD from the states via fleabay. Get on ebay.com/motors and search subaru LSD. It's about $500.00 plus postage (about ~$160)

I'm looking forward to the LSD

Cheers

Bennie

thanks for the actuator pics. And dash pics.

Hmm... A front LSD.
Would a front LSD be more practical than a rear LSD, since more weight is on the front end?

2nd Hand Yank · Post by **2nd Hand Yank** » Tue May 15, 2012 7:32 am

El_Freddo wrote:No - at least so far! I'm still keeping a keen eye on it but so far so good. Hopefully it's stay this way for a long time to come.

This is what I've got - you'll love it! Here's some pics of my install, you might do yours differently but I'm very happy with mine! The control unit was cable tied to the steering column above the kick panel. Pics:

Actuator:

Speed sensor mounted off the back of the gearbox:

And the control pad location - some serious drilling action was done to fit the control pad in this location, but it looks tops and is a great spot for it:

Longer travel struts are good - until you try to extend past what the CV joints can handle. But it can be done by using a different strut and removing your strut's lift blocks. Been done before.

Front LSD - well it depends on what you're after and how much you want to spend. Like Venom I've gone for a mechanical LSD from the states via fleabay. Get on ebay.com/motors and search subaru LSD. It's about $500.00 plus postage (about ~$160)

I'm looking forward to the LSD

Cheers

Bennie

thanks for the actuator pics. And dash pics.

Hmm... A front LSD.
Would a front LSD be more practical than a rear LSD, since more weight is on the front end?

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue May 15, 2012 8:20 am

the old split radio mount trick I see Bennie

did the same, but then used wood glue, bog and paint to mask it - so much time involved !!

thunder039 · Post by **thunder039** » Tue May 15, 2012 9:38 am

looks like your interior could do with a clean

AshR · Post by **AshR** » Tue May 15, 2012 10:54 am

Well I haven't done anything to my Subaru, BUT I did get one step closer to owning a brumby with my parts van being picked up today and getting a cheque for a few hundred for their troubles

Then this week have to replace the PS pump in the liberty.

Agree with Thunder, Bennie you need to buy a pack of Armor-all Wipes

thunder039 · Post by **thunder039** » Tue May 15, 2012 1:02 pm

brought a used subaextreme sumpguard for my fiance's car 'the green machine" pick it up this weekend

B00sting · Post by **B00sting** » Tue May 15, 2012 5:03 pm

2nd Hand Yank wrote:Thanks.

When I bought my L Series it already had bigger tyres (185/70R-14)
and a 2 inch lift from "lift-blocks" attached to the struts and some body lift.
Plus it has a decent aluminium roo-bar that replaced the factory front bumper.
So even aired-down, my Soobie isn't too bad.

I have heard of others going to a 3" lift,
both from more blocks (suspension + body lift)
and Matt who has a 3" lift in his Brumby from custom struts alone.

So yeah, I want another 1 inch of lift, either way
but I'm thinking having longer travel will help protect everthing in my car from hard impacts and add some comfort.

You're doing everything all at once?
How long do you think that will take?

I'm considering doing the suspension + EJ at the same time,
since both are supposed to require an engineer's approval.

I am, and the second answer is I don't know.

There are things I can't do obviously, so a lot of trailering about will have to happen no doubt.

I'm aiming for engineers approval as well, but if my budget can't stretch that far I'll at least complete it all to an engineers standard and have inspections to make sure, then have it engineered later on.

thunder039 · Post by **thunder039** » Sat May 19, 2012 5:33 pm

went and picked up my used subaxtreme sump guard for the green machine today. got it from ebay very happy virturally brand new no cracks or previous welds. Im not worried about cracks as the car its goig on realy doesnt venture off road often, and when it does it isnt hardcore.[img][IMG]http://i1152.photobucket.com/albums/p48 ... 00_428.jpg[/img][/IMG]

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sat May 19, 2012 7:45 pm

thunder039 wrote:looks like your interior could do with a clean

Back then yes it could have. Now it's a pot load cleaner - plus it hasn't seen too many dirt roads or long periods of time on dirt like it did back then.

thunder039 wrote:went and picked up my used subaxtreme sump guard for the green machine today. got it from ebay very happy virturally brand new no cracks or previous welds. Im not worried about cracks as the car its goig on realy doesnt venture off road often, and when it does it isnt hardcore.

Good looking sump guard mate! Did you manage to pick it up for a steal?

Cheers

Bennie

Bradenrm · Post by **Bradenrm** » Sat May 19, 2012 10:27 pm

Bought 4 new alloy 14" wheels and tyres for my Sportswagon, identical to what was already on it however has Black Subaru center caps and NO gutter rash like the old ones!

$100 for the 4 of them, tyres all have 50% tred (still happy with that!)

So I went to the tyre place, got the new wheels fitted and balanced, and a wheel alignment done, and the 80% tred tyres I had on the car to start with were swapped onto the good new wheels. 50% tyres on the gutter rash wheels. Wasn't stoked with the wheel alignment, I think I will do it myself from now on. My steering wheel is still 5 degrees out which annoys me..

Also had it cut and polished, and got a quote to get my bumpers colour matched to the rest of the car. $550, including some work on the rear right quarter panel (small dint, paint touch ups)

Pretty Keen to DIY a trailer with some gutter rashed 14's, or sell them to someone after a set..OR..
Motorkhana at avalon. So many possibilities..

thunder039 · Post by **thunder039** » Sun May 20, 2012 10:21 am

El_Freddo wrote: Good looking sump guard mate! Did you manage to pick it up for a steal?
Cheers
Bennie

i paid 150. pretty good basically brand new, brand new they are 350 and it was only a 30min drive from my house to go pick it up. they dont come up often 2nd hand so i jumped at the opportunity

Bradenrm wrote:Bought 4 new alloy 14" wheels and tyres for my Sportswagon, identical to what was already on it however has Black Subaru center caps and NO gutter rash like the old ones!

$100 for the 4 of them, tyres all have 50% tred (still happy with that!)

So I went to the tyre place, got the new wheels fitted and balanced, and a wheel alignment done, and the 80% tred tyres I had on the car to start with were swapped onto the good new wheels. 50% tyres on the gutter rash wheels. Wasn't stoked with the wheel alignment, I think I will do it myself from now on. My steering wheel is still 5 degrees out which annoys me..

Also had it cut and polished, and got a quote to get my bumpers colour matched to the rest of the car. $550, including some work on the rear right quarter panel (small dint, paint touch ups)

Pretty Keen to DIY a trailer with some gutter rashed 14's, or sell them to someone after a set..OR..
Motorkhana at avalon. So many possibilities..

thats a bargain for thoes wheels. was it mates rates?

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun May 20, 2012 8:03 pm

Think I got on top of the bleeding reco brake master cylinder and lines, then got into the $14 ebay made in India Brumby gearbox mounts - Fuji has beaten me. When I feel better about being under the beast with minimal room will try removing the other side - get meself in double the trouble

Just cannot beat the twist from the gearbox and the rugged new mounts

EDIT > much easier if both mounts are undone at same time

much easier if I had a hoist at home, was also easier in the dark, on stands than in daylight - just relied on headlamp or Narvas lighting

Also noted the shift in position of the radius rod mounting bracket after the gutter incident - the bolt heads reveal a shift in things. Something else to do before a wheel alignment. Can't wiait for next rainy day to go challenge a council engineer to take the roundabout at slow speed .....in their car !

AshR · Post by **AshR** » Mon May 21, 2012 9:54 pm

Put in a second hand PS pump and alternator from an 98 Foz that was at the wreckers (and took the belt that looked new) and got a new multimeter on my way home.

Both working sweet as

expecting better economy now the car isn't fighting the pump to turn the belt.