Am I Kidding Myself??

Post by **TOONGA** » Thu Mar 11, 2010 1:57 pm

yep after lots of web searching, disscussion and looking through that forester manual these buggers could be the biggest problem any engine could ever have

heres a stock picture from a website that sells the version without the tgv

heres what it looks like with a sensor attached

this site has a detailed description on removing the problem

it is worth a read (bring a cut lunch)

http://www.omods.com/index.php/mods_art ... all_guide/

it would seem this is a problem the the WRX motor has as well

I would say when those things slam shut when you are trying to tow a trailer or even just drive the car it would cause all sorts of fun and games

and that loose tube is an air breather tube so as I understand it isn't connected it measures ambient air pressure

read Part 15: TGV Motor Removal on the omods page (very informative pictures)

TOONGA

Outback bloke · Post by **Outback bloke** » Thu Mar 11, 2010 3:03 pm

Cam timing - if the crank and inlet cam on the passengers side are not correct it won't run. If any of the other 3 are out it will have have a bad idle.

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Thu Mar 11, 2010 3:17 pm

TOONGA wrote:sorry should have said Australian specifications (it is on the page that I found the link on)

1994 ccm = 2ltr

Ah i got my PDF from the http://www.pdftown.com site

I'll looking at the one that you suggested very soon.

If the TGV is stuck partially closed, that could be the reason you car is so lethargic, even though its showing proper boost, because the boost is being held back by the TGV

Post by **TOONGA** » Thu Mar 11, 2010 3:36 pm

Suparoo wrote:Ah i got my PDF from the http://www.pdftown.com site

I'll looking at the one that you suggested very soon.

If the TGV is stuck partially closed, that could be the reason you car is so lethargic, even though its showing proper boost, because the boost is being held back by the TGV

yep it is the Australian spec and it helped find this problem

and the big problem is that one of these valves will fail or both if one fails the engine is sluggish and runs badly if both fail it isn't a good thing at all

when the TGV engine fails the valve shuts and 90% of the intake is blocked

so great boost is shown but it isn't getting anywhere

TOONGA

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Thu Mar 11, 2010 8:24 pm

The articulator is on one side, and the feedback sensor (which is very similar to the throttle position sensor) is on the other.

Grab a multi meter and test the sensor output. This should tell you what position each TGV is at

SuBaRiNo · Post by **SuBaRiNo** » Thu Mar 11, 2010 8:29 pm

This is a real possibility... i swear im hearing some noise down near that device... surely it should do nothing and make no noise when reving it in the car port. Sounds like a clicking like spark noise. Not all the time it's audioable though. That answers my question to what my mystery hose is meant to go to also... and why the computer would not give me an engine light flash code when it was unplugged (i don't think there is one for that).

Idea... this thing is meant to close off when it detects wheel slip or something like that... could the box slip trick it to thinking it needs to close... or my mysterious "wheel noise" have something to do with it.

Anyhows i need to process this idea... Paul i will call u soon for a chuckle if i have time tonight.

Cheers guys
Dave

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Thu Mar 11, 2010 8:43 pm

According to the wiring diagrams, the Yellow/Red wire (pin 3) on the left hand sensor and the White/Red (pin 3) on the right hand sensor is the signal back to the ECU. Test between these and the body with the engine running under different revs, the readings should change, but should be equal between the 2 sides.

I cant actually find an page in the FSM for testing them

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Thu Mar 11, 2010 8:52 pm

They have nothing to do with preventing slip.

They are designed to create turbulence during idle and cruise to better mix the air and fuel just after the injectors.

They open up progressively as either engine revs or engine load increase

There are 11 codes relating to TGV malfunction, but are codes that can only be read with a Select Monitor machine from a Subaru dealer

SuBaRiNo · Post by **SuBaRiNo** » Thu Mar 11, 2010 10:45 pm

This looks like a huge job. I would want to be 100% sure this was the problem before i attempted it.

Dave

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Thu Mar 11, 2010 10:46 pm

Is the select monitor the thing that Paul has?

If it's not there is a genuine subaru select monitor forsale on Perth-wrx.com, it's $2500 tho! :P

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Mar 11, 2010 11:04 pm

with auto trans fluid a simple drain and refill does not drain the torque converter which can hold several litres. Once did one that had a lot of water in in from a swim in the river. I think we drained pan, filled, ran it, drained it, ran it drained it about four times until we got red fluid and no trace of pink. Ran well and changed as expected afterwards. Just as well , it was Honda CRV (pricey parts)

SuBaRiNo · Post by **SuBaRiNo** » Thu Mar 11, 2010 11:28 pm

Im not sure what the thing is Paul had... if it's not that thingo then maybe i should pay the money for Subaru to check and see what they say. Will cost me $130 for me to take the mechanic around the block with his computer.

Dave

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 12:22 am

Hey Dave.. I'm almost 99% sure that this is what is causing the problem. I'd like to test the connections to see if they are changing (open/shut) and go from there. I still believe that the fluid in the box needs changing as it's like thin as. I glad to get clarification on those tumblers as they make more sense

I'm happy to give you a hand on testing and removing if we find out for sure. I'm sure the 3 codes my scanner were the same as what I read on the site about this TGV issue.

I still think we should do the EJ25T after the big day

SuBaRiNo · Post by **SuBaRiNo** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 12:42 am

Yeah sounds great paul. I feel like im asking a lot of you at this stage but i don't think i would attempt this without u.

I will be doing the trans this weekend and see what happens with the box there.

From what happens with the rest of the motor it all sure seams to fit. Maybe (if your keen) we can do the removal one night after work and refit the next maybe. Since the injectors would be out anyways i should get them serviced too while it's all out.

So might need to refit a few days after depending on how long it takes me to get them in somewhere and back... i can't take any more time off work.

I agree with the 25. I would have to get very happy with this car very quickly to make me want to spend that sorta money on it though.

Sorry i didn't call... phone went flat. Can call u tomorrow during the day if you like though.

Dave

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 12:49 am

It's really no troubles Dave, I'm happy to help it's just a shame you live just shy of Geraldton

I'm thinking that I'll drop in on Sunday on the way back from Lancelin and we can talk about the whole removal of the manifold stuff.

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 12:00 pm

lol at the EJ25turbo

If u were happy with the car (only problem seems to be lack of power) then u wouldn't need that.

Would be kinda cool though....but I still think if you were going to consider an engine swap then a 6cylinder would be more suited to your application.

maxxair · Post by **maxxair** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 12:31 pm

TGV. what i gay idea. illd be taking that out, regardless if its the trouble or not. looks more hassle than its worth

Post by **Captain Obvious** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 5:56 pm

maxxair wrote:TGV. what i gay idea. illd be taking that out, regardless if its the trouble or not. looks more hassle than its worth

agreed, that seems like what the problem is!! and the fact that the vac line on it has come off suggests that its the culprit.

bryan

SuBaRiNo · Post by **SuBaRiNo** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 9:39 pm

At this stage im investigating the costs of a half cut. If i have box problems... engine problems and wheel hub problems then it's starting to make sence that if i can get a low KM half cut im much better off. Depends on how much.

Dave

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 11:40 pm

I don't think you need to go to that extreme Dave. TGV delete won't cost you anything more than a couple of manifold gaskets. I'm sure your gearbox will be much happier with some new fluid and lastly I'm confident that I can work out the wheel issue once we have the other stuff sorted.

Don't lose faith just yet Dave, we'll have you sorted in no time and you'll be on that trip with a great car