The AUSubaru.com.au Forums

hey,

Thinking of a few things to help my car out (89 L Series wagon)... could anyone help estimate how much I would expect to pay for it all?

Also, how likely do you think my mechanic would be to let me pay it off in bits rather than all at once ... I've been using them for about 2 1/2 yrs now... and I drive to Clayton from Brunswick because I rate them so highly (after advice from ppl on this forum no less).. Not sure if I can swing it really.

Plus, if they're going to do my heater core, is there anything else I should ask them to look at while they're in there - as I think a large chunk of cost for that fix will be going on the manhours pulling the dash apart !! And with good reason obviously! (But has to be done - bit freaky driving on a cold rainy morning madly rubbing at the condensation and trying to see out the windows - scary)

-New heater core
-New gas struts
-Tyres - got a few which I could possibly swap over? What tyres are recommended anyhow?
-New key barrel for the hatch (any day now this is going to kick the bucket and I'll be trying to squeeze a double bass in via the side door - er - it's not gonna happen!)

hmmm that's all really... hope someone has some tips!

Well at a guess it would be probably $150 for the heater core (core only, dont know how much to fit it), Assuming the struts for the boot?? $25 to get them re gassed (Got mine done for that), 13" tyres are about $60 to $70 each from places like k mart fitted and you can buy new barrels for locks for about $70 for all ignition, front doors and Boot from somewhere like supercheap.

Cheers, Jarrod

Regassing - Would I have to leave the car with them or does it just take 10 minutes? Any recommendations? My mechanic told me they didn't rate regassing very much...

I wonder if I could get them to put new hoses for airflow in while they've got the dash in pieces... or check the seals or something. Oh and figure out why the dash clock never keeps the time! That would be so cool if it was fixed... It would be like a brand new car

I've priced the heater cores for between $300 and $400 (supply only) at quite a few places so beware, you will probably have to shop around a fair bit to get a good price.

The struts have to be taken out of the car, only about a 10 minute job with a spanner. Not sure but less than a day.

Whit the clock, check where the power supply for the radio comes from, mine came from the radio and drew power away which made it lose time.

you could get a secondhand heater core and chuck it in like i did. takes best part of a day to get dash out and in yourself

jsut find some good 2nd hand gas struts and fit them yourself. Will take 10mins.

pull your clock apart and i bet you'll have dry solders. Causing the clock the turn on and off etc. Either re-solder or find a new one.

With the heater core, i wouldnt go 2nd hand personally, just becuase it could go bang again soon.

Alot of these things can be done yourself and youll save alot of $$ in the process.

where are you located mate?

alex

Brunswick VIC... I'm really not too confident with doing the jobs myself though ey - If I had a mechanic mate I could call if I somehow soldered the dash clock to the passenger headrest (hey it could happen!) I probably would attempt it! I would like to do a short course in auto mechanics one day... it's a dream haha!

Agree with Alex on the heater core - too much of a PITA to put a 2nd-hand unit in and have it fail. It's a common problem with the L-series.

Clock - piece of cake, there's a big 2w resistor on the back (pop the entire unit out, it's got a connector with about 3-4 wires which you can undo), take the back cover off, and in the top-middle of the PCB is the resistor. The solder will look dull and is not making a clean contact between the resistor and the circuit board. Get a soldering iron, apply plenty of heat and reflow the solder joint so it appears silvery. Re-assemble, plug back in...done.

Gas struts - my local wrecker has a bucketful, $5 a piece. If you can push the ends together by hand they're worn out, if you have to put your weight on one end to get any movement they're still good. Mazda 626 hatchbacks from the 80s are a good donor, nice long units with lots of travel. Generally they have a metal clip at the bottom of the strut that you lever out with a screwdriver, then you can pull the strut off the ball.

Tyres - ditch those 13's and put on some 14's - much better handling, and much better tyre choice. Pug 505's will bolt up, find some at a wreckers, a cheap set of tyres if you're on a tight budget, some hubcaps off a later-model Subaru with 14" rims and you're golden.

If you want some help with the clock & struts, etc, shoot me a PM, I'm about 1/2 an hour from Clayton...

Dean.

hey,

Dfoyl is right about the clock, mine kept going dull every now and then and was behind on the time. i took the pcb out and almost all the joints looked like dry joints. Just go over them all with a soldering iron to avoid any future problems.

Cheers,
adam

re the gas struts

go the rock-ape fix.

Bend them slightly to stop them falling on your head - worked great when mine failed way out bush

Like i said, not a pretty solution!

PS: have a go doing some these yourself - they are pretty straightforward, (save the heater core) and the more you do, the better you will become...plus the satisfaction of DIY

sven

Hey Kezpipa,

Do a search for heater core replacement or something of that subject. I did a step by step write up that was apparently useful.

With a bit of time, some attention to detail and some tools, you can achieve anything - pulling your car apart may sound daunting but its really not that bad - the more you do it the easier it becomes.

I would go to a radiator joint and have them make up an all metal core so the problem will not occur again. GTlegs had this done last year, he has a dead core that I gave him to give the rad joint as a template so he only had to pull his dash apart once.

If you're coming on the vic cruise we could probabily organise to have the dead core passed on to you. Or we could all end up at your joint for a subi TLC arvo/evening

Cheers

Bennie

definatly get a new heater core and replace the 2 rubber hoses that are in the box as well....

Sorry to drag up an older post - but would you expect that a heater core for a US Loyale would fit in our L Series? Can anyone think of an issue with the LH / RH drive thing?

Fang wrote:Sorry to drag up an older post - but would you expect that a heater core for a US Loyale would fit in our L Series? Can anyone think of an issue with the LH / RH drive thing?

Nah Fang, it'll all be the same, and if it is piped in from the other side I couldn't imagine subaru using a different core, just different rubber hoses... My bet would be that the water for the heater core still comes in on our passenger side, even in the US.

Send a PM to The_Loyal - he'll beable to set you straight.

Kezpipa - would you like to organise a weekend to drop in a do some work on your L? I've pulled my dash out so many times its not funny...

Let us know.

Cheers

Bennie

Well I hope it's the same, Bennie coz I just bought a spanking new one from the US

Where did you find it? I need a newie for my liberty.

vincentvega wrote:Where did you find it? I need a newie for my liberty.

On eBay - for $93 delivered. However, I do know of someone that deals in genuine new parts over in the US. I will have a quick hunt for the details and PM you.