How do you remove tinted window?

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 8:25 am

What is the best way to remove the agey window tint that was placed on the car in 1998 and now it has "waves" and its annoying that you cannot really see specially if you dont have time to have a quick look, plus some areas is peeling.
Do I just peel it off or use heat gun or just scrape them off with knife (big job on rear window!)?
Thanks
AP

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 8:40 am

Brick, rock, tyre lever?

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 8:50 am

Ok serious post now..

I removed the tinting from the drivers window with a stanley knife blade. Its time consuming, but it works

shuffbag · Post by **shuffbag** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 8:55 am

yeah scraper/stanley knife blade then something to get the old glue in spots, but dont scrape the dimister wires on the window.

last celtic warrior · Post by **last celtic warrior** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 8:59 am

You need to get the "special tool" that the manual always mentions. There are a few different "special tools" for different parts of the car that a normal tool won't be any use on. Where do you get these "special tools"? Well, you're supposed to take the car to a Subaru authorised specialist workshop, where they MIGHT have the special tool needed to do that particular job. The average Joe or otherwise "unauthorised" person cannot gain access to or purchase these "special tools"...

Here's a little trade secret exposed...

Pop down to any supermarket, hardware store, auto shop, newsagent, "cheap shop" or corner store... And grab yourself a $2 glass scraper (the ones with the changeable old style razor blades). Just skim the tint off in nice long slow runs and then use some thinners or other solvent to get any sticky goo off the window to leave it clean.

Matatak · Post by **Matatak** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 9:07 am

Steve is pretty much on the money there with a glass scraper.

if its really stuck on then i beleive it was either heat or a steamer that makes it alot easier.

last celtic warrior · Post by **last celtic warrior** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 9:38 am

The problem with using localised heat on side windows on a car is that they will most likely shatter. Zone toughened glass is DESIGNED to shatter, so the most you'd want to do is hold a rag soaked with thinners against the tint for a minute before scraping it, but make sure you don't get too close to the window seal, door trim or paint...

Matatak · Post by **Matatak** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 9:54 am

my windows havent shattered ?

i know a guy in the tinting industry who did it and im fairly sure it was a steamer he used which almost made it peel right off for him.

and when putting new stuff on a heat gun was used on certain bits but not excessively.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 10:50 am

when the 'available to the public' tint goes on water or water with detegent is used to slip it into place before squeegee the bubbles, water and soap out. I have heard the commercial stuff uses other secret ingredients, might come out of a male cows rear end...

If you are really lucky you can get a run on peeling it off once started need to hold peeled bit square to the glass for that right gifted peel, other angles can tear. Hold and pull it squarely away from glass not in direction of need to peel away sort of thing.
I used stanley brand blade holder from paint shop and safety single edged razor blades.

From memory it is Windex brand window cleaner that does good job of dissolving excess glue. A mate uses petrol but stinks to high hell !!

Bit of the "by appointment of HRH" ?? brand window polish to finish off

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 10:50 am

when the 'available to the public' tint goes on water or water with detegent is used to slip it into place before squeegee the bubbles, water and soap out. I have heard the commercial stuff uses other secret ingredients, might come out of a male cows rear end...

If you are really lucky you can get a run on peeling it off once started need to hold peeled bit square to the glass for that right gifted peel, other angles can tear. Hold and pull it squarely away from glass not in direction of need to peel away sort of thing.
I used stanley brand blade holder from paint shop and safety single edged razor blades.

From memory it is Windex brand window cleaner that does good job of dissolving excess glue. A mate uses petrol but stinks to high hell !!

Bit of the "by appointment of HRH" ?? brand window polish to finish off

Xtreme_RX · Post by **Xtreme_RX** » Sun Mar 01, 2009 8:02 am

The easiest way to remove window tinting is to buy a glass cleaner that has ammonia in it. Spray the glass so its 'wet' apply a few layers of news paper to the glass & wet the news paper with the glass cleaner. Leave for an hours or so, pull the news paper off & then the tinting film should just pull straight off the window. clean off excess glue with metho....

Suba · Post by **Suba** » Sun Mar 01, 2009 11:09 am

Love the old wifes tales

, .as far as heat goes we can get the glass to a temp that you can no longer put youor hand on the glass and we havnt broken a window yet. and yes we do this every day

Mike.

last celtic warrior · Post by **last celtic warrior** » Sun Mar 01, 2009 1:08 pm

Never said heat would definitely make the window shatter, just most likely, so better to be careful than have to replace the window if an accident does occur. And I specifically said "localised heat", which means some numbskull holding a heat gun designed for paint stripping in the one spot for a while (especially if it's a cold day).

Just because it's never happened to you, doesn't mean it can't happen. An unnoticed chip on the glass could give the heat expansion stress somewhere to start...