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I have two workshop manuals for Subaru. A Haynes 1980 thru 1989 and a Gregory's 1979 thru to 1994. Haynes doesn't specify any bleeding sequence. Gregory has two different sequences. One for '79 to '84 and one for '85 to '87.
I am now working on a '92 L series 4wd wagon. Would I be better using the later sequence seeing as that covers L series, or does someone have better info.?
I don't remember worrying about sequence on my ' 49 FX Holden !!

this doesn't always ring true but when i worked in a garage we did the wheel furtherest from the master cylinder first then the next closest and so on

so left rear, right rear, left front ,right front last as its closest to the master cylinder

TOONGA

not for old subies or lasers, more like but don't quote me , right rear, left front, left rear, right front - more if I can get fingers onto it.

me - always done rear left (passengers), rear right (drivers), front left (passengers) and lastly front right (drivers).....
Cheers
AP

I have found trouble both on Lasers and old subes when done AR's way


gregorys say


79 - 84 and utes

right rear, left front,left rear,right front


85 to 87 sed and wagon

So, I'd say stick with the L sequence of earlier unless you have problems

How'd you go? Suck it and see?

left front, right rear, right front, left rear


howzat

I've never had a problem with: bleed master cylinder then any wheel in any order.

Whenever I have bled brake lines it has been longest to shortest irrespective of the make of car.

One reason for the different methods is that some people just want to get the air out, while some are working on flushing the fluid as part of the bleed.
I reckon changing the fluid only needs doing every couple of years though.
Another is Single circuit v Twin circuit Axel split v Twin circuit Diagonal split.
There doesn't seem to be a Wrong way, some are quicker, some use more fluid.
Daza.

Subyroo wrote:Whenever I have bled brake lines it has been longest to shortest irrespective of the make of car.

That would be correct, if its right handed car, the furthest would be rear left and finish off and shortest which is drivers side.
If its left handed car its opposite. This is how i was taught.
Cheers
AP

just whatever you do, don't rely on a 'gravity bleed!' you can buy an auto-bleeder (providing you have an air compressor to hook it up to) from any decent tool store from as cheap as $30! they work a charm, use em at work every day.

Thanks for all the responses.
I will follow "Gregory's" sequence, as shown by Steptoe and appreciate what Daza is saying about the different ways of doing it; for different results. If "Gregorys" way also flushes the system, I will be happy to have used more fluid, as I dont know the service history of the vehicle.
Don't know what a gravity bleed is, Little-Red-L, fill me in, please.
One thing I saw on You Tube , was coating the bleeder nut with grease to stop air getting back in along the threads. A "first" for me, but how many of you do it ???

I have found sometimes in the past on Subies I have needed to use thread tape on the bleeder nipples to prevent air sneaking back in throught the threads while nipping them up. I suppose brake bit assembly grease is another way.

Gravity bleed is undo the nipple and let it dribble using no foot on the brake pedal to pump it through. I use a bit of rubber vacuum line on the nipple then a bit of clear pvc tube heading up first so bubbles rise, gravity allows the natural flow into an old PET 1.25litre fizzy drink bottle

I'm not sure why you would get air reversing back past the threads of a bleed nipple anyway - unless someone was playing with the brake pedal .
You can literally unscrew the nipple and take it right out of the brake caliper when doing a gravity bleed .
The bleed tap point is usually at the highest fluid point of a brake caliper to ensure that you float the air out above the fluid when bleeding the system .

Granted if you leave the bleed nipple in and attach a tube to it the operation is less messy .
On a four wheel disc L Series the fluid doesn't get in around the pads anyway so I just let it run and hose away the mess when finished .

If you get a firm pedal doing it this way obviously there isn't any air in the system is there ?

I'm waiting for the day that someone makes a bicycle valve fitting for a master cylinder cap so you can put a very slight positive pressure on its reservoir . Then get an accomplice to go round and crack the bleeders using the slightly elevated pressure to push fluid through the system .
If you used a car tyre valve its spring loaded so wouldn't leak air backwards .

Of course you'd have to make sure some berk didn't overdo it on the pump and burst the reservoir or force it up out of the MC's body .