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f*&ked clutch or just clutch cable
Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 3:17 pm
by Creamfeeder
Hi guys, I m having issues with the brumby. the clutch doesnt disengage when i push down the clutch pedal. I have noticed that recently it has been taking more action on the pedal to get it to disengage, so I have been tightening the clutch cable adjustment screws to compensate. Now however, it just doesnt disengage at all, and I have to use more force to get the pedal to the floor. Is this a clutch cable issue, or is my clutch just had it? If it is a cable have any of you guys got one to sell me or some info as to where to get one? Being carless sucks balls!!!:mad:
Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 3:26 pm
by Kappage
Hey, im not exactly sure on how the clutch ona brumby works but, check where it pulls through the firewall it could be ripping a ring around the bracket, we had this with an EA falcon that had the same problems you are having.
Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 3:43 pm
by Creamfeeder
thanks for the tip! I will definitely check into this, but I think the cable actually travels through a piece of conduit through the firewall.. I will still check though as if thats all it is, thatd be awesome!!
Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 4:50 pm
by yarney
Sounds like the clutch fork worn on the ball you need to take out the gearbox to see or replace it
Jan
Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 6:39 pm
by rubisubi
I had a similar problem, it may be the pedal box, they are a weak design and when you push the clutch in the whole box flexes. You may need to take it out and weld on some stiffener bars.
Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 8:26 pm
by gtcompletepower
check the pedal box i had same problem about 3 months ago
Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 8:51 pm
by Callum89
pedal box on a brumby?
Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 9:45 pm
by gtcompletepower
where the clutch cable outer is held inside the vehicle left hand side of steering column thre is a mounting point where the weld breaks or the point it is welded to collapses due to metal fatigue
Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 10:37 pm
by AlpineRaven
Are you able to stall in 4th gear? If u can then the clutch is ok, problem will be somewhere, I would start looking at clutch cable, Pedel box, clutch fork.. Is there any weird noises? (ie grinding or squel?)
cheers
AP
Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 10:37 pm
by sven '2'
+1 on pedal box - common weakness
start here as is cheap/easy - if problem persists your clutch is done = remove the box as suggested
Sven
Posted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 6:09 pm
by Creamfeeder
thanks for all the info, guys. will look into it soon. How easy is it to get e clutch box, none of the spares stores here have ANY brumby or old subie parts. Very annoying?
Posted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 6:10 pm
by Creamfeeder
oh yeah and stalling is not a problem whatsoever!! and yeah nasty grinding noises but only when changing gear, funnily enough.
Posted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 6:43 pm
by Battlewagon
If you can stall it, then your clutch is OK.
The nasty grinding noises sound like a collapsed thrust race bearing.
Posted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 7:08 pm
by sven '2'
Creamfeeder wrote:thanks for all the info, guys. will look into it soon. How easy is it to get e clutch box, none of the spares stores here have ANY brumby or old subie parts. Very annoying?
Very common - try here?
vbclassified.php?do=ad&id=880
Better to weld yours adding a bit of flatbar for good measure
Sven
Posted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 9:14 am
by rubisubi
Hey matey, the reason the gears are crunching is because the pedal box is flexing, so when the clutch is pressed the box bends and the clutch plate doesnt even move. Think of it as trying to change gears without even using the clutch. I found that out the hard way one night on a club run. I took mine out and just got some guys to weld it up for me.
Posted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 9:30 am
by RSR 555
Yep.. pedal box and cable are most likely very worn for many years of use. I'd start with these before pulling the clutch out, a lot less work

Posted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 6:09 pm
by DavesB4
We just this past week replaced the Clutch fork on our Vortex for exactly the same reason. Cable was adjusted several times until nothing left. The fork had suffered severe metal fatigue and was about to disintegrate.
Get a torch and look down the hole in the bell housing while someone else presses the clutch. You will see if it wants to split and climb over the ball pivot.
Gearbox out to replace I am afraid.
Posted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 7:57 pm
by kevmif
Hi all - my clutch has also stopped working properly, looks like the cable has started to snap. Are new cables easy to get? Had a lot of trouble with spare parts places ordering me wrong parts in the past. Its an 84 Brumby.
Thanks
Posted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 9:20 pm
by RSR 555
I have a very good secondhand one if you like?
Posted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 9:31 pm
by robo
Heya
Dont want to hijack this thread but when i release the clutch on my wagon the car sometimes shudders particularly on slope, what could that be, it also makes a tink noise when engaging clutch.
cheers
robo