Front wheel bearing, costs??

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gemery10
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Front wheel bearing, costs??

Post by gemery10 » Mon Mar 20, 2006 6:59 pm

Hi all, What would you expect to pay a mechanic to install front wheel bearings on one side? I have been quoted $300 + and it seems a bit steep.
Don't have jackstands, breaker bar, 36 mill socket , hole punch, brass drift but waying up cost of purchase vs mechanic?

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tim_81coupe
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Post by tim_81coupe » Mon Mar 20, 2006 8:15 pm

I reckon you'd definitely beat $300 doing it yourself and buying the tools.

Basically the tradeoff is you'd have to sweat it out doing it, but you get to keep the tools for next time or having peace of mind knowing that if the new bearing fails its a warranty job....


I'd do it myself, but thats because my cars never go to the mechanic.
82 MY Wagon, EJ20G

87 RX, EJ20G

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coupe
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f.....ripoff

Post by coupe » Mon Mar 20, 2006 8:56 pm

Well it cost me $47 from repco and 1 1/2 hours to change the front left
bearing .
You must make sure that you get the correct bearing package for your car.
The mechanic will charge you for 2 hours labour and retail on the bearings.
its not a hard job to do but you must take your time to make it hassel free.
Cheers Pete
Use The Fork Luke

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MUDRAT
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Post by MUDRAT » Mon Mar 20, 2006 9:34 pm

Counterpoint,

I'd pay a mechanic to do it. It's an annoying, filthy messy job that just sucks - but don't pay $300.

Here's a tip: Remove the steering knuckle from the car yourself and take that into the mechanic. If you've got a good mechanic it'll save you $$.
Monster Subaru sold to a good home!! Still a Subaru owner. Will try stay in the Ausubaru loop. Sorry :cool:

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Mon Mar 20, 2006 9:46 pm

sounds like Muddy is a bit better off than some of us others

MY and I suppose L series FWBearing kit under $50

Buy /borrow 3/4" breaker bar and 36mm socket and cheapy punch and do it yourself when got time to spare and a clean place to work. Do it once and you'll be have no fear to do the other side , or your mates at a later date.

Just make sure the spacer between the two bearings is not discarde and goes back where it was, and that if bearings are not pregreased that you wash them in solvent, best not petrol, to remove protective coating from stopping your hi temp wheel bearing grease sticking to bearing.

When knocking pin back, shaft should have a shampher one one side of hole to match a champher on outside of DOJ dbl offset joint bit to help line up the right way

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gemery10
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Post by gemery10 » Tue Mar 21, 2006 11:08 am

Thanks everyone, funds are low so I think I will tackle the job myself. I worked that pin trick the hard way doing the rear bearing ages ago (uncles tools). Are the fronts much harder than the rear?

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Outback bloke
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Post by Outback bloke » Tue Mar 21, 2006 11:23 am

Fronts are a lot easier than the rear. You do have to knock the bearings out from opposite sides of the hub though. Go and buy a $3 10 inch 1/2 extension from Supercheap and use that to get the old bearing out. There is a good chance you will damage the ends of it, so don't use one you like.

Once you have the hub off and sitting on the ground (vice is better if you have one), put the extension through the bearing on one side and hit the bearing on the opposite side out.

It will knock the seals out with it as it goes.

When you put the new gear back in take a bit more care so you don't damage the new bearings or seals.

It is a good time to do ball joints if they are suspect as they will be pretty much out any way once you have the hub off.

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bluesteel
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Post by bluesteel » Tue Mar 21, 2006 11:25 am

fronts are easy compared to the rear

just do it yaself, shell be apples
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Matt
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Post by Matt » Tue Mar 21, 2006 7:24 pm

Another idea might be to get sealed baarings, about same price and no where near the mess...... and you know they are packed right
"Bianca"
'86 Brumby - Dual Port Heads, 5 Speed Dual Range, Custom Cam, Tuned Weber, Tuned Suspension, 2" Body Lift Kit, LSD, 14" rims, 2.25" Exhaust, Snorkel, Dual Batteries, DVD Player, UHF, VHF, etc. Offically now part of the 350, 000 km Club! :) And still pulling like a freight train.
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"Claudia"
82 MY Wagon - EA81T, RS Liberty WIAC, 5 Speed Dual Range, Tuned Suspension, 14" Rims 27" Tyres, 2" Body Lift Kit, Apline Head unit, UHF, Roof Console, L Series seats, Soon to have New Paint, snorkel, Dual batteries, etc
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SuBaRiNo
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Post by SuBaRiNo » Tue Mar 21, 2006 9:40 pm

I have been told that the sealed ones are a whole lot more expensive... I will be getting some in the next few days so i will let you guys know.

Dave
EJ conversion wiring harness cut downs available. Please PM or email ([email protected]) for details.

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Matt
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Post by Matt » Tue Mar 21, 2006 10:21 pm

Dave I got mine for like $50 ea for the kit, but that was after i hunted around a bit.
"Bianca"
'86 Brumby - Dual Port Heads, 5 Speed Dual Range, Custom Cam, Tuned Weber, Tuned Suspension, 2" Body Lift Kit, LSD, 14" rims, 2.25" Exhaust, Snorkel, Dual Batteries, DVD Player, UHF, VHF, etc. Offically now part of the 350, 000 km Club! :) And still pulling like a freight train.
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"Claudia"
82 MY Wagon - EA81T, RS Liberty WIAC, 5 Speed Dual Range, Tuned Suspension, 14" Rims 27" Tyres, 2" Body Lift Kit, Apline Head unit, UHF, Roof Console, L Series seats, Soon to have New Paint, snorkel, Dual batteries, etc
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tim_81coupe
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Post by tim_81coupe » Tue Mar 21, 2006 11:23 pm

But the WA Subaru gang is used to very cheap parts in this area....:P I used to get the standard bearings around $20 a kit per side.
82 MY Wagon, EJ20G

87 RX, EJ20G

89 Brumby, EA81

12 BRZ, FA20

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gemery10
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Post by gemery10 » Wed Mar 22, 2006 11:09 am

Any luck on those sealed bearings? Sounds like a great idea as I have to quite a few flooded creeks to get to my father in laws. Fronts easier than rear, woohoo, rear was no problem, I thought the front would be harder because of all the steering stuff. Thanks heaps guys I'll definately do it myself then.

greg

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_curlie_
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Post by _curlie_ » Thu Mar 23, 2006 6:57 am

:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
then i am the lucky one as all i did was buy the bearing kits & the then watch someone do it for me free of charge

ps i do look after his computer

:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

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SuBaRiNo
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Post by SuBaRiNo » Sun Mar 26, 2006 3:48 pm

I got some bearings over the weekend.
Cost was about $24 each. I had the choice between the rubber seals and the metal seals. I went with the metal ones... apparently the rubber seals were a few dollars more expensive.

Here is a pic of them.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/525 ... 5049tXdJAZ

Dave
EJ conversion wiring harness cut downs available. Please PM or email ([email protected]) for details.

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GTlegs
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Post by GTlegs » Mon Mar 27, 2006 11:31 am

For those that dont put sealed bearings in (ie grease them themselves) put it in, make sure that absolutely no dirt/sand/etc gets into the grease. Small point, but it will save you having to skim the hub and redo the bearings later.
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BrumbyWorx
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Post by BrumbyWorx » Mon Mar 27, 2006 4:52 pm

Mental note to self. Next time get sealed bearings. Did my passenger side on the weekend.. driver's side a couple of months ago. No dramas. I'm getting quicker. Bought the socket and breaker bar and have found the bar to be a really useful tool... knocking out the bearings for starters.
Separating the ball joint and occasionally hitting myself in the head with (I love the ringing sound)
As muddy said.. it's a bugger of a job but quite satisfying when you pull away and you don't have to listen to the hum (grind) of a wheel bearing and all you can hear is road noise. Now I can go back to listening to the EA81 rattle.. grrrr

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