My new wagon.

freakazoid · Post by **freakazoid** » Thu Feb 10, 2011 6:32 pm

Well the old sedan just wasn't doing it for me anymore so when a cheap L wagon came up as a trade in at work i grabbed it. It was a 92 auto 4wd drive wagon now its 5 speed dual range with a 4 inch lift and 27" muddies. Its great being able to fit my fridge and my camping gear into the car. Still playing with the snorkel at the moment....is there nothing you cant get at bunnings? Any way I thought you guys might appreciate it. Oh yeah if any body in brisbane has a bull bar to suit I would be real interested.

FujiFan · Post by **FujiFan** » Thu Feb 10, 2011 6:57 pm

Nice!

Post by **TOONGA** » Thu Feb 10, 2011 7:36 pm

very nice & rather neat, it looks like it belonged to another member? EJ motor in the wings?

TOONGA

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Feb 10, 2011 9:15 pm

Very neat. I'm starting to think the 3 inch is inadequate!

And I've really got to clean ruby scoo up...

Cheers

Bennie

TheInterceptor · Post by **TheInterceptor** » Fri Feb 11, 2011 8:37 pm

Now that is how i want my soob to sit!

Looks great.

Unrested · Post by **Unrested** » Fri Feb 11, 2011 11:29 pm

I have an enormous black bullbar on my 81' Commodore Station Wagon, one which I really don't need

freakazoid · Post by **freakazoid** » Sat Feb 12, 2011 7:39 pm

Just put the CIG locker in from the sedan this weekend ready for a trip down evans heads way, sure makes it easier off road. Now just need to play with the shifter and it will all be sweet. They say once you have been black you just can't go back........lol but have gotten on to one localy so will see what happens. It will make the bash plate much easier to fit. Not sure of the history on this one but it was a totaly stock auto wagon when it was traded, pity the ac was toast but hey thats what windows are for. If it was a forum members car i do have one question.............Did you shave a large hairy dog in here or what ??????? i have never seen so much hair i thought it haqd shag carpet at first.....oh well it will be fun. Thanks for the comments. Mike.

FujiFan · Post by **FujiFan** » Sat Feb 12, 2011 8:21 pm

Just a quick one dude, I notice on your pic of this beast that the snorkel inlet is facing backwards. Should face forward for better inlet charge:)

D3V1L · Post by **D3V1L** » Sat Feb 12, 2011 9:22 pm

FujiFan wrote:Just a quick one dude, I notice on your pic of this beast that the snorkel inlet is facing backwards. Should face forward for better inlet charge:)

not the most accurate statement out there, in terms of which way the snorkle inlet should face.

davo

FujiFan · Post by **FujiFan** » Sat Feb 12, 2011 10:32 pm

not the most accurate statement out there, in terms of which way the snorkle inlet should face.

Well davo could you please clarify this. Forgive my ignorance.

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 1:08 am

D3V1L wrote:not the most accurate statement out there, in terms of which way the snorkle inlet should face.

davo

FujiFan wrote:Well davo could you please clarify this. Forgive my ignorance.

Yeah.. I'm thinking it looked the wrong way too but Dave has a brake light in his helmet.. is a ideas man

freakazoid · Post by **freakazoid** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 1:07 pm

There has been quite a bit or research done on ram air intakes, lets get one thing out first, yes they do work but only at high speed and with correctly profiled intake point and ducting. Most snorkles vary in diameter and have several points that introduce turbulance to the airflow in the air flow, ie it kills flow. Now engines are just air pumps and as a result create negative pressure on the intake side which is quickly filled by ambient air pressure some where around 14.5 psi depending on conditions. Your just not going to improve on this with a forward facing scoop at road speeds, if it did you can bet that every manurfacturer would have it fitted already. Manurfacturers are more interested in getting cooler air due to it being denser. I fitted the scoop due to drowning my sedan, i caught it before it did any damage but it was close the filter was soaked and had mud in the air box. Forward facing scoops tent to gather more muck into the intake and also water when it rains. Rear facing scoops force the air to change direction as it enters and therefore helps and dust or water to be removed, much like a pre filter on a Donaldson etc. Besides no amount of air is going to make a L series on 27" tires a road warrior........thats what EJ22's are for. lol.

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 1:36 pm

Thanks Mike.. that does make sense about the inlet collecting more dirt and rubbish but I'm sure you're still using an air filter. I also believe that the snorkel is not there for preformance but for water/creek crossings (which don't work very well on ULP engines) and from the way I understand air movement.. when you have air moving along a pipe it will create a vacuum as it passing the end of the pipe.. thus making it harder for your NA air pump to draw in the required air.. and in turn use more energy (which will equate to more fuel being added) to make the engine work. I'm not trying to start any argument but rather a healthy open discussion as I wish to do the same type of thing

Cheers,
Paul

freakazoid · Post by **freakazoid** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 6:32 pm

No arguments from me i had thought about that also. It would be fun to put a manometer ino the intake and check some pressures (negative or otherwise). I'm pretty sure that the suction generated by the engine would far out way the effect of air flow past the pipe, I have slash cut the end of the pipe to keep the rain out but also make the opening efectivly larger. Its early days though I may play with it a bit as i go, its not my daily driver i have a subaru powered Volkswagen for that, so its mainly just used as a toy and for camping etc. My main concern was keeping water out as it didn't cough or miss when i submerged it i just found the wet air box while checking it back at camp.

FujiFan · Post by **FujiFan** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 8:48 pm

I appreciate your explanation, I wasn't trying in anyway to correct you about your snorkel arrangement as such. Only attempting to point out a detail that I believed (based on reading to many magazines perhaps) could offer an improvement:???: Clearly you have more experience than myself with this.
Was only trying to be a useful contributor. Could do with some useful info myself on a suitable waiding depth air intake:)

BTW that snorkel ontop of the lift and 27" tyres is one mean looking machine.

freakazoid · Post by **freakazoid** » Mon Feb 14, 2011 6:21 pm

Sorry FujiFan, I didn't mean to come across as narky...lol. I appreciate all comments, its the best way of getting new ideas. I am tossing up about putting a pre cleaner on top of this as some forrestry trails can be real dusty and they sure do help getting rid of the bulk of the crap in the air. The whole snorkle owes me about $30 bucks and is easily repaired or modified with a quick trip to Bunnings. The lift is great, it saves alot of body damage but the clearancr under the drive train is only up by the increase in tyre diameter. The best mod by far has been the CIG locker, it is the best thing i have ever done to help off road. If your looking to do some wading spend some time sealing the motor and the electrics, seal the distibutor and tap it for a breather pipe high in the engine bay and rout the emmision air intake up high as well. Water will stop it eventually but you will be surprised how deep you can go. I hope your not fussed about your carpet.................

FujiFan · Post by **FujiFan** » Mon Feb 14, 2011 6:29 pm

thanks for the input. Not so much planning wading but you never know when it will arise. like to be prepped and bullet proof much as possible. I am working on a rear diff breather ATM that runs into the interior (safely).
How does this CIG locker thing go on sealed roads - any concerns?

littlewhiteute · Post by **littlewhiteute** » Mon Feb 14, 2011 7:04 pm

FujiFan wrote:
How does this CIG locker thing go on sealed roads - any concerns?

I'll ask as well.

I'd be concerned if you do a lot a small radius turns on bitumen.

Tends to wear rear CV joints faster than average.

freakazoid · Post by **freakazoid** » Thu Feb 17, 2011 1:20 pm

The CIG locker hopeless on road, i just pop off the rhr driveshaft for road use, it only takes a minute to put it back on but with it removed its just as nice to drive on the road as with out being locked. It will also go a long way off road in 3wd too, lol but its worth the hassel of jacking up a rear wheel to swap it in, just use zip ties instead of axle pins.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Feb 17, 2011 1:26 pm

freakazoid wrote:The CIG locker hopeless on road, i just pop off the rhr driveshaft for road use, it only takes a minute to put it back on but with it removed its just as nice to drive on the road as with out being locked. It will also go a long way off road in 3wd too, lol but its worth the hassel of jacking up a rear wheel to swap it in, just use zip ties instead of axle pins.

Have you shaved the stub axles? This is pretty common practise for the good old welded. Now that I'm going for AWD I still want a locked rear end, but there are currently no off the shelf options available

Cheers

Bennie