What did you do to improve your soobie today

zookcruzr · Post by **zookcruzr** » Sat May 10, 2014 9:08 pm

Put the Brumby up on the hoist today to suss out if there's room for a water tank and/or a hidden safe box and noticed a rip in my inner CV boot. So changed that today. Cheaper than I thought too. $13.

FYI I've added a water tank and hidden tray storage box to my to do list lol

zookcruzr · Post by **zookcruzr** » Sat May 10, 2014 9:12 pm

Plus I got a new door sensor/switch and found an ac unit at a wreckers. Yay more money lol

Bumpty · Post by **Bumpty** » Sun May 11, 2014 9:21 am

Put the secondary turbo on last night, one turbo closer to it being back together!

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Tue May 13, 2014 1:02 pm

Got the MY touring wagon through it's 32nd year of rego, EVENTUALLY !!!

It initially failed on the front indicator on the side of the guard wasn't working.
Changed the bulb but no good.
Worked out the earth (black) wire to this light was faulty.
Ran a temp wire from the light in the RH side of the bull bar and got through rego.
Went back home, pulled the battery and dismantled the main wiring loom.

Found this where the RH bull bar and RH side guard indicator earths join with what I guess is the same from the LH side.

Looks like corrosion has set in from where fluid has seeped down over the last 32 years through the wiring loom into the crimp fitting. Odd how one of the earths is faulty and the others OK.
I will be cutting the wires and baring the cores till I get back to clean wiring and joining via solder the wires back together. Should be OK to go again then when everything is covered up with tape.

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Fri Jun 13, 2014 7:15 pm

I had a front wheel bearing replaced in the ute today with sealed NTN units...my GOD it's so much nicer to drive now

That RH bearing has been making growling, howling, grinding noises for weeks now getting worse every day. At 80 km/h you practically needed ear plugs to not go insane. With the new bearings I can actually hear the exhaust now! sounds nice

Completely silent except the few squeaks and rattles from one of the brakes, tailgate latch rattling.

ScubyRoo · Post by **ScubyRoo** » Sun Jun 15, 2014 5:03 pm

I was in the country for less than 3 hours before I started on the car... Engine oil and filter change, new battery, discs and pads, topped up radiator overflow tank and a few other odds and ends...

New discs and pads:

New pad vs old pad:

Old disc/pad combo - was metal on metal! Note that the surface rust is from the car being stationary for 5 months while I was overseas... but you can see the wear on the disc:

And the new rotors paired with new Munroe shocks and King HD Springs (new shocks installed last Christmas). If you you look carefully can see the 2" lift block on the engine crossmember in the background:

Off to PAP tomorrow to get a new washer bottle, wipers, gear stick linkage and perhaps some front sway bar bushes if there are any of reasonable condition. Then off to a mate's place who is baby sitting my MIG to put the polishing touches on the rear bar and lift...

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Sun Jun 15, 2014 6:28 pm

Ooh shiny!

Some nice TLC, does this mean you'll come out with us next trip?

ScubyRoo · Post by **ScubyRoo** » Sun Jun 15, 2014 9:20 pm

NachaLuva wrote:Ooh shiny!

Some nice TLC, does this mean you'll come out with us next trip?

Thanks mate! Depends on when the next trip is! We're off to cairns for a few days next week, and a few days in Tassie next month. Otherwise we're mostly in Templestowe at my in-laws or in Sale visiting my parents...

Is there anything on the cards at the moment?

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Mon Jun 16, 2014 9:45 am

Nothing atm, & I have to move in a few weeks time (the fun of packing 5 yrs accumulation of junk lol). But I might be able to get in a day trip to Warburton mud

Wooster · Post by **Wooster** » Mon Jun 16, 2014 2:15 pm

Attempting to decipher what caused both front CV boots to tear for no obvious reason

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Mon Jun 16, 2014 3:28 pm

Wooster wrote:Attempting to decipher what caused both front CV boots to tear for no obvious reason

What lift do you have?

this came in the mail:

Wooster · Post by **Wooster** » Tue Jun 17, 2014 12:36 pm

Lift is stock mate

Tigger · Post by **Tigger** » Sun Jul 13, 2014 1:55 pm

Washed both the Foresters and installed the new UHF and a Roof Rack on the White Forester

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Fri Jul 25, 2014 7:56 pm

I converted my EJ20G in the RX to wasted spark ignition. I uses the coilpack from just about any EJ22 or EJ25 that uses an external igniter and it works using the existing EJ20G 4 channel igniter.
I mounted mine where the air-con compressor once was.

Remove the conduit and tape from the start of the engine loom just after the 16 pin connector. Find the wires that go to the coils,
Cyl #1 = Red/Green
Cyl #2 = White/Red
Cyl #3 = Blue
Cyl #4 = Light Green
+12v = Yellow

Join the Red/Green and the White/Red to the Red/Green wire of the new coil
Join the Blue and the Light Green to the Blue wire of the new coil
Join the Yellow to the Yellow of the new coil and replace the tape and conduit.

Run your spark plug wires and you are done

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Fri Jul 25, 2014 9:09 pm

Gannon wrote:I converted my EJ20G in the RX to wasted spark ignition. I uses the coilpack from just about any EJ22 or EJ25 that uses an external igniter and it works using the existing EJ20G 4 channel igniter.
I mounted mine where the air-con compressor once was.

Remove the conduit and tape from the start of the engine loom just after the 16 pin connector. Find the wires that go to the coils,
Cyl #1 = Red/Green
Cyl #2 = White/Red
Cyl #3 = Blue
Cyl #4 = Light Green
+12v = Yellow

Join the Red/Green and the White/Red to the Red/Green wire of the new coil
Join the Blue and the Light Green to the Blue wire of the new coil
Join the Yellow to the Yellow of the new coil and replace the tape and conduit.

Run your spark plug wires and you are done

Can't see the pictures

I have a rally car with an EJ20G and it has a weird setup... interesting looking coil per spark plug that sits near the heads, not like the EJ22 in the old car (Still have it) where it sits on top of the engine manifold.
What does the wasted spark setup do?

Cheers Cam

henpecked · Post by **henpecked** » Fri Jul 25, 2014 9:23 pm

Brumby Kid wrote:Can't see the pictures

What does the wasted spark setup do?

Cheers Cam

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wasted_spark

The wasted spark system is an ignition system used with some four-stroke cycle internal combustion engines. In a wasted spark system, the spark plugs fire in pairs even though one is on its compression stroke and one is on its exhaust stroke. The extra spark on the exhaust stroke has no effect and is thus "wasted". This design halves the number of components in a typical ignition system, while the extra spark, against much reduced dielectric resistance, barely impacts on the lifespan of modern ignition components. In a typical engine, it requires only about 2–3 kV to fire the cylinder on the exhaust strokes. The remaining coil energy is available to fire the spark plug under compression (typically about 8 to 12 kV).

Perhaps the most significant advantage of the system, compared to a single coil and distributor systems, is that it eliminated the high-tension distributor.[1] This significantly improves reliability, since many problems with a conventional system are caused by the distributor being affected by dampness from rain or condensation, dirt accumulation, and degradation of insulating materials with time. Although plug-top coil systems would later offer this same advantage, they were not available for another 30 years. Plug-top systems increase the number of coils required, the heat that these coils must survive, and so their demands on materials science for insulators.

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Fri Jul 25, 2014 9:58 pm

So long story short...
It fires 2 at once? The cylinder on ignition and the cylinder on exhaust? Helps to burn off anything that hasn't already?

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Sat Jul 26, 2014 8:07 am

Advantage is that it replaces the plug-top coils that are misifing on boost with a cheaper alternative to aftermarket Bosch HEC716 coils or later model WRX plug top coils that require an igniter delete.

These are the coils I removed

The photos are working for me. I'll try linking them differently

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Jul 26, 2014 8:20 am

That was pretty clever of you Gannon. Your idea or been done before ? Run any differently at all , or jus for cost and convenience?

Fuel pressure gauge ? Be hell easier if every efi had one of those - in the dash

or at least a warning light off a pressure sensor if pressure dropped off. An oil pressure sender and gauge could do the job ????

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Sat Jul 26, 2014 8:54 am

I have also replaced the plastic coolant header tank with a later model WRX aluminium one using spacers made from the metal tubes from swaybar bushes