What did you do to improve your soobie today

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Tigger
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Post by Tigger » Sat Jan 31, 2015 6:18 pm

Removed F Badge :)

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2012 Subaru Forester - 2.0D Premium ~ 2002 Subaru Forester - Limited (Lifted)

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henpecked
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Post by henpecked » Sat Jan 31, 2015 7:34 pm

JP147 wrote:For the first time ever, working boot struts!
It sounds so minor - but in reality it is HUGE !!! well done.

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JP147
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Post by JP147 » Sat Jan 31, 2015 10:01 pm

henpecked wrote:It sounds so minor - but in reality it is HUGE !!! well done.
The routine used to be: open boot, hold up with head, get vice grips from boot, clamp onto strut, hope it doesn't slip.

When I was buying the car, the bloke's dad was helping me install the tow bar and the boot decided to come down at full speed. The corner would have got him in the head except the spare hadn't been swung out all the way and it hit that, just missing him.
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dfoyl
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Post by dfoyl » Sun Feb 15, 2015 3:42 pm

Finally separated the EJ20 donor engine from the auto box. I read a lot of people have problems with separating the two, but it pretty much fell apart once I removed the two 13mm bolts running at the top corners (both from the gearbox side into the engine, one the top bolt for the starter and the other under a bit of folded steel). Maybe I was just lucky, or the use of a jack at the end of the gearbox gave me the angle to start the split...

Now to dispose of the box and start the EJ rebuild.
1989 Brumby - Shiny new red paint, stroked EJ20 phase 2 SOHC with Darton sleeves bored to EJ22, Wiseco high-compression pistons, Delta 2000 grind cams , EJ/XT6 5 stud with WRX 4/2 pots, 5-speed, 86 GTS seats and so much more.
Contact me for reproduction XT6 hubs...and EA82 rear discs.

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purp
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Post by purp » Sun Feb 15, 2015 7:38 pm

Contemplated the safety of L series rear drums...

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Proton mouse
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Post by Proton mouse » Mon Feb 16, 2015 2:00 am

I know L series rear disks are the better option, but didn't realise the drums could have so much 'bite' too :rolleyes:

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NachaLuva
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Post by NachaLuva » Mon Feb 16, 2015 11:48 am

Dont worry, the redback will keep the other spiders away :p
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Owner SubieLiftOz, lift kits for Subarus :twisted:

'97 Forester: EJ22E; 4" Custom Body Lift; JDM STi plated LSD; 20mm WRX RSB; Snorkel; Kings

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Fri Feb 20, 2015 10:25 pm

gearbox and front diff all in one oil change - Brumby 4 speed box :) unknown frothy looking stuff and G70 out - castrol VMX80 in - looks like sewing machine grade ! is meant for light commercials and older cars needing better cold weather shifts - recommended by RSRPaul

Shifting just as nice as before :)

Also got a wash, special Meguiars light cut stuff or pre polish cleaner and TopGear by Magnum, [now obsolete] polish. WooHoo !!

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FujiFan
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Post by FujiFan » Fri Feb 20, 2015 10:47 pm

gearbox and front diff all in one oil change - unknown frothy looking stuff and G70 out - castrol VMX80 in - looks like sewing machine grade ! is meant for light commercials and older cars needing better cold weather shifts - recommended by RSRPaul

Shifting just as nice as before

Also got a wash, special Meguiars light cut stuff or pre polish cleaner and TopGear by Magnum, [now obsolete] polish. WooHoo !!
Was this for the Vort Jonno?

J.

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NachaLuva
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Post by NachaLuva » Sat Feb 21, 2015 10:43 am

Put in these bad boys, Hella Supertones, hella loud :twisted:


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Owner SubieLiftOz, lift kits for Subarus :twisted:

'97 Forester: EJ22E; 4" Custom Body Lift; JDM STi plated LSD; 20mm WRX RSB; Snorkel; Kings

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Silverbullet
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Post by Silverbullet » Sat Feb 21, 2015 10:59 am

Recently I scored a second set of RX rear discs and so of course they went straight on the Brumby :) Rear disc stopping power in both my cars now :p
Got up super early today (never seen a clock on Saturday reading 7:30 AM!) because it was going to be 40 degrees today...well it was about 30 at 8 AM and sun beating down already (see high tech shade device below)

I have to say it was a frustrating experience...when the tool designed specifically for brake flare nuts destroys the brake flare nut you know you're in for a fun time. The one from the old drum solid line connecting to the rubber hose on the trailing arm...had to remove the rubber hose from the chassis, put the lot in a vice, heat the crap out of it and the nut finally let go with a pair of big ass vice grips...brake fluid dripping from the car the entire time :mad:

The other side wasn't nearly so bad, went straight on with no issues in about half the time. Bled the brakes and we're good to go. Haven't tested them yet, will do later today and see how different it is.

*Edit* just came back from the first drive with discs and well, it is different but not shockingly so. The brakes come in alot sooner up the pedal than before, with perhaps some increase in stopping power but overall not a massive difference. I think this must be one of those things; people who rave about them being the best thing ever are comparing them to flogged out, improperly adjusted drums but my old drums had brand new pistons in them and new shoes, properly adjusted and stopped the car just fine. Still, I was sick of always adjusting them and the springs coming loose inside the drum and the drum being filthy everytime you had to take it off...so discs still worth it :)

Parts laid out and ready to go
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One side done, after an hour of toil, frustration and rounded brake nuts.
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High tech shade device (at least the old drums are good for something!) actually made a huge difference when the sun isn't on your back.
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Will it ever end!?
-EA81 TWIN CARB!!!!
-L series 5 speed
-Custom paint job
-2" lift
-Full custom re-wire
-L series front end
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henpecked
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Post by henpecked » Sat Feb 21, 2015 8:32 pm

Good job , well done. My understanding is that some huge percentage of all braking effort is from the front ( 70%+ ?) so the rear disks are really just one of those 10% jobs, plus bragging rights - :D My white brumby had rear disks and supposedly the largest front disks, and I have not really seen much difference now I'm driving a bog standard Brumby. But then I'm and insensitive ar$ehole at the best of times ;) :rolleyes:

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Silverbullet
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Post by Silverbullet » Sat Feb 21, 2015 10:01 pm

henpecked wrote:Good job , well done. My understanding is that some huge percentage of all braking effort is from the front ( 70%+ ?) so the rear disks are really just one of those 10% jobs, plus bragging rights - :D My white brumby had rear disks and supposedly the largest front disks, and I have not really seen much difference now I'm driving a bog standard Brumby. But then I'm and insensitive ar$ehole at the best of times ;) :rolleyes:
Bahahaha :rolleyes:

When you look at them though, the rear disc pistons are tiny, so 10% is probably about right :o Plus there's no weight in the back so no big brakes required in the back. Another interesting thing I learned recently from a guy at the brakes shop is that drums are more "efficient" than discs, require less force to actuate. Picture how the shoes sit in a brake drum, when you activate them the rotation of the drum pulls the shoes around making them dig in and is sort of like another servo assist, well that's how the fella explained it to me. Discs have no such assistance and need more fluid pressure to work properly.
Will it ever end!?
-EA81 TWIN CARB!!!!
-L series 5 speed
-Custom paint job
-2" lift
-Full custom re-wire
-L series front end
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Proton mouse
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Post by Proton mouse » Sun Feb 22, 2015 1:12 am

Another interesting thing I learned recently from a guy at the brakes shop is that drums are more "efficient" than discs, require less force to actuate
Yep, there is an old saying that a well adjusted set of drums will out brake a set of discs 'once'. After the initial out stopping though, they become out of adjustment and therefore less efficient. The problem is especially exacerbated on front drums where those inconsistencies can be felt with left or right dominance of efficiency. Hence why manufacturers went to front discs many beers ago.

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Sun Feb 22, 2015 3:13 am

and lower end budget cars still have drums on the rear :( I would not be surprised if ..say...the Victorian government passed legislation against re rego of cars with rear drums if not been registered previous 12 months as with their alleged anti handling laws

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Silverbullet
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Post by Silverbullet » Sun Feb 22, 2015 8:53 am

Proton mouse wrote:Yep, there is an old saying that a well adjusted set of drums will out brake a set of discs 'once'.
Ah yes there's the other thing, what's their performance like after continuous use. Heat buildup would have to come into it too...

True Jonno, but then all semi's and big rig trucks use drums!
Will it ever end!?
-EA81 TWIN CARB!!!!
-L series 5 speed
-Custom paint job
-2" lift
-Full custom re-wire
-L series front end
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Nubaru
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Post by Nubaru » Sun Feb 22, 2015 10:30 am

the drums may be better at heating up and cooling down without damage, whereas a disc may not ??
member since 10january2014 #6191

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Tigger
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Post by Tigger » Tue Feb 24, 2015 4:12 pm

Installed new Bullbar on the White Foz :)

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2012 Subaru Forester - 2.0D Premium ~ 2002 Subaru Forester - Limited (Lifted)

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pezimm
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Post by pezimm » Tue Feb 24, 2015 8:24 pm

^Nice bullbar! Never seen this type before, is it custom?
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GONE :( - Forester XT Auto - MY07 with all the goodies
Now occasionally driving a Ford barge...

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Tigger
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Post by Tigger » Wed Feb 25, 2015 6:57 am

It's the original prototype bullbar made by the original owners of SubaXtreme. The grandfather of the current bars.
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2012 Subaru Forester - 2.0D Premium ~ 2002 Subaru Forester - Limited (Lifted)

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