What did you do to improve your soobie today

Post by **Bantum** » Sun Apr 19, 2015 11:17 pm

Went Subi parts 'picking' today ...

Managed to 'pick' a few things too ...

Cheers, Bantum ...

Proton mouse · Post by **Proton mouse** » Mon Apr 20, 2015 12:15 am

C'mon Bantum, don't keep us guessing, what hottie parts did you pick? &#55357;&#56832;

Post by **Bantum** » Mon Apr 20, 2015 1:23 am

Umm - A few Brumby bits from here & there ( thanks to $tando ) + still negotiating for some others, will update more when I get them sorted ...

So here are some of the bits :

Mostly Electrical & Gearbox ...

Cheers, Bantum ...

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon Apr 20, 2015 9:41 am

as one who really needs to work on one thing at a time, could the Bantum bits topic be shoved aside until SubyDoug has furnished some photographic evidence of his handiwork please ?

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Mon Apr 20, 2015 1:57 pm

I'm sorry Mr Steptoe, I do have a few pics but it's a bit of a lashup at the moment. I wasn't even sure it would work. Seems as though it does I need to clock the compressor housing 180 degrees and mount up my intercooler. Also need an ej series throttle cable to go around the turbo and some heat shielding. This should give you the general idea though.

Regards

Doug

Post by **TOONGA** » Mon Apr 20, 2015 8:21 pm

Very nice Doug

Instead of turning the turbo, make the pipe for the intercooler turn right and go over the power steering housing, and then out the front to the intercooler.

TOONGA

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Mon Apr 20, 2015 8:51 pm

Shit Doug!

That's awesome! This probably needs its own thread as I have questions about the injector setup you're running. Looks like four plus one in the throttle body for when on boost. I'm keen to know more about the four at the heads

And is this your own programming of a home build ECU?

Cheers

Bennie

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Mon Apr 20, 2015 10:42 pm

Thats a good Idea Jules, Il have a look into it. Might have to weld a 90 onto the outlet of the compressor.

Yeah I should probably start a thread about it. Only the 4 injectors at the heads. I welded the bungs in myself (NOT for the faint of heart!). Its got a harley throttle body on it, also welded on and its all run by a microsquirt. Wasted spark and batch fire injection using speed density. My homemade ECU sucked compared to the microsquirt. Stuck the turbo on during the last week, running wastegate pressure (~7psi). When It blows up il stick some low compression pistons in it.

Regards

Doug

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Apr 21, 2015 8:26 am

think we all appreciate seeing the lashup devolpment stage Doug - I do

Did you use an EA82T exhaust and add a bit to get the turbo up at a more practical spot, or make that too ?

There are experienced nayseyers out there will say the NA comp and turbo will eventually kill your big ends first I think it is. You would be th right sort of geniuous to be able to devise a thing to relieve the turbo of a bit of steam as rev and load rise to something like just 4 psi to preserve things ?

Like your work - another action man like Tweetys Tony !!

On accy cable - the LHD ones you get from US are about 110mm longer and have correct ends for MY stuff

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Wed Apr 22, 2015 1:45 pm

No, no donor turbo bits Jonno. First thing to pop will most likely be head gaskets And piston lands. I've felt 7lbs now Jonno, there ain't no going back! I plan on tuning it up a bit better this weekend.

Regards

Doug

outback · Post by **outback** » Thu Apr 23, 2015 3:01 pm

Go for water meth injection that will help to..

What I did to improve my wagon was to put a new radiator in. (ebay one)
The top outlet blew off on the old one.
It still had the outlet in the radiator hose.
I'm not sure why it did it, but it can't be good.
Anyway when I pulled the old radiator out you could see that it had been in a prang.
There were a few other bits that looked like they had been putt back into shape as well.
So that bit wasn't a improvement lol..
Now I'm thinking about selling the wagon and get my old van going.
Then save up for a brumby with a ej 25 conversion I think..
Then sell the van..

dfoyl · Post by **dfoyl** » Thu Apr 23, 2015 9:33 pm

Prepped this up:

(For those who don't recognise what it was, it's the A/C button from an MY - repurposed to, well, help light the way)

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Apr 24, 2015 8:27 am

Dean, can you describe the wire connections of that switch and how to make it light up in ON position ?- I'm sure I could not work the circuit out when I was fiddling to make the button light up, and have a pair side by side for left and right rad fans

dfoyl · Post by **dfoyl** » Fri Apr 24, 2015 12:24 pm

*EDIT 25/4 AS ORIGINAL INFO WAS INCORRECT*

The switch lights up when depressed, irregardless of parker lights status. The yellow has +12V applied when the circuit is closed. In my application I tried tapping the second yellow (light bar switch) off the first yellow (AC switch) - this doesn't work unless the first switch is on (my workaround was to steal +12V from the parking light circuit that goes to the cigarette tray, so I only get power when parker lights are on, which keeps it legal).
The other two (blue and black with yellow line) are simply the switch running back to the relay with +12V - in my application I run +12V back to the relay input (back right terminal when looking at the relay sitting on the shock tower), and back out the relay output (front right terminal). I then have my (16A inline fused) +12V supply coming from the battery going into the back left side of the relay, and +12V supply to the light bar coming out the front left side.

dfoyl · Post by **dfoyl** » Fri Apr 24, 2015 12:29 pm

I'm assuming your fan wiring is running the ground to the blue and black with yellow wires in the above (ie. you have 12V to the fan(s) positive from the battery, and the negative from the fan(s) runs through the switch and down to ground. If you have the positive running through the switch and the fans have the negative terminal going straight to the chassis then obviously you'll need to wire the switch yellow wire to ground instead of the 12V accessory supply.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Apr 24, 2015 11:38 pm

I do not recall the wiring methiod from a dozen years ago but will take note of both posts above - thanks heaps. Pretty sure I was in a hurry to hook them up and get going somewhere at the time - was running a plain switch and no relay at first - got a bit warm

Certain I bodgied up something that was bodgie to begin with as well!

JP147 · Post by **JP147** » Sat May 09, 2015 12:58 pm

Wilson!

Clearwater99 · Post by **Clearwater99** » Sun May 10, 2015 7:36 am

Fitted

I measured my ground clearance before and after at lowest point

Before 195mm

After 165mm

I don't mind, it's for the beach not the rocks.

henpecked · Post by **henpecked** » Sun May 10, 2015 5:04 pm

Quite a lot got done Friday, mostly ( actually all [;)] ) by a fellow member

WIC got

1) repaired drivers side electric window motor ( replaced entire assembly)

2) rims and lyres - 195/60/15s

2) New rear disk Brakes

4) Rear LSD

I just need to put the OEM racks on, the 2" lift and steering extension, the rear window louvre, fix up the aerial and speakers, and put proper coolant in the new alloy radiator and its all good to go start work on the Brumby:D

Proton mouse · Post by **Proton mouse** » Sun May 10, 2015 5:39 pm

That's a nice looking bash plate Clearwater99, pity for the most part it will remain unseen!! So long as it does the job though. that's all that matters

Henpecked...That's a good match with the alloys on the silver duco, very factory looking indeed !!
Much envy for your rear disks and especially the LSD. Will be a great setup when you get a lift kit in!!

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