What did you do to improve your soobie today

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Sat Nov 28, 2015 10:30 am

So that's different to tint?

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
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Cliff R
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Post by Cliff R » Sat Nov 28, 2015 10:47 am

Bennie
As this stuff uses static to stay in place there is no adhesive used.
The water is only used to get it positioned (looks preferable to trim it to size first) and when the water dries it should stay in place.
I have window tinted cars before and the main issue I have with this static stuff staying in place is, it is heavier in construction meaning it doesn't just sit in place once wet.
It tends to fall off but this is made easier if it is trimmed before putting in place as there is less material to stay on the window instead of the whole sheet.
Apart from this, it is fully removable and reusable so no more scrapping off for hours.
In principle it look great, just don't know how it will go on a rear window with such things as electric demisters etc.

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dfoyl
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Post by dfoyl » Sat Nov 28, 2015 3:06 pm

>Only problem is, I only have (2) centre caps as this is all that was on the L series when I bought it

I probably have at least 2 spares if you want them...
1989 Brumby - Shiny new red paint, stroked EJ20 phase 2 SOHC with Darton sleeves bored to EJ22, Wiseco high-compression pistons, Delta 2000 grind cams , EJ/XT6 5 stud with WRX 4/2 pots, 5-speed, 86 GTS seats and so much more.
Contact me for reproduction XT6 hubs...and EA82 rear discs.

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Cliff R
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Post by Cliff R » Sun Nov 29, 2015 8:35 pm

Fitted the new oil pump, with a new oil filter, oil and the new oil pressure gauge sender.
Certainly a challenge to fit the pump with the front pulley and belts in place but do-able with patience and time.
The leak from the old pump looks to have been coming from the paper gasket and/or the smaller o-ring that goes into the recessed area in the face of the pump (the old ring had a slight deformity).
Unfortunately, I now note one of the exhaust flange studs on the driver side head is loose and wont tighten as it is pulling out. I don't recall if this is one I previously heli coiled or not. It isn't an issue right now but I don't like to leave only one stud holding the exhaust on.
There is another reasonable oil leak somewhere and I don't know where it is at this stage. Will need to do a decent degrease. Could be a rear oil seal or a rocker cover gasket.
I had been planning on getting another gearbox in the next year or so as the current one has syncro issues and wasn't exactly perfect when I put it in 12 years ago as a swap over for the original auto box.

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Cliff R
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Post by Cliff R » Sun Nov 29, 2015 8:37 pm

dfoyl
Thanks for the offer, I will let you know what I need when I sort out a few other issues.

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JP147
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Post by JP147 » Mon Nov 30, 2015 7:51 pm

[quote="Cliff R"]

Mine had been helicoiled and the helicoil pulled out. Ended up putting the studs in the other 2 holes and modifying the exhaust.

You can see the large hole where the helicoil was at the bottom.

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Cliff R
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Post by Cliff R » Mon Nov 30, 2015 8:02 pm

Wasn't going to do this job today but ended up dropping the exhaust and noted the loose stud was in an original hole with original thread.
Drilled the hole out and put a Helicoil in.
Put it all together, haven't run the engine but it all looks good.

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coxy
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Post by coxy » Tue Dec 08, 2015 11:00 am

Improvement Well thats always a personal thing but it sure is different to see an L series Sedan with an E30 BMW front and it does not look all that out of place.
http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/showt ... 01&page=10

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dfoyl
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Post by dfoyl » Tue Dec 08, 2015 12:37 pm

>sure is different to see an L series Sedan with an E30 BMW front

It's an interesting idea, but it looks a bit odd as he kept the BMW kidney grille without extending the BMW design traits throughout the car - the hofmeister kick in the c-pillar design and the tail-light design in particular. The other problem is the BMW had a more slanted forward grille design, while the L-series was very much slanted backwards. So the ends of the front fenders just don't quite work.
1989 Brumby - Shiny new red paint, stroked EJ20 phase 2 SOHC with Darton sleeves bored to EJ22, Wiseco high-compression pistons, Delta 2000 grind cams , EJ/XT6 5 stud with WRX 4/2 pots, 5-speed, 86 GTS seats and so much more.
Contact me for reproduction XT6 hubs...and EA82 rear discs.

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Subydoug
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Post by Subydoug » Wed Jan 06, 2016 4:21 pm

I improved the location of my subaru!
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mattw
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Post by mattw » Wed Jan 06, 2016 4:36 pm

Using the last week of holidays to embark on installing power steer and air con in the brumby. So far so good, although I'm missing one of the pulleys (on the a/c tensioner) if anyone has one laying around.

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Proton mouse
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Post by Proton mouse » Wed Jan 06, 2016 5:39 pm

Lovely location Subydoug. Are you going to build a shed there? ☺

Mattw... Have you got a pic of the a/c set up on yours? There's a couple of variants. I possibly might have something. PM me your number if interested.
Cheers JB

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coxy
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Post by coxy » Wed Jan 06, 2016 8:12 pm

I posted this up in the Cars seen for sale thread, But I recon most would agree this would be the best thing you could do for your Subaru today, In many cases replace it with this Gem or at least add another to the stable.

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/ferntree ... 1098092619

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mattw
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Post by mattw » Thu Jan 07, 2016 7:16 pm

Proton mouse wrote:Lovely location Subydoug. Are you going to build a shed there? ☺

Mattw... Have you got a pic of the a/c set up on yours? There's a couple of variants. I possibly might have something. PM me your number if interested.
Cheers JB
Thanks man,
See the pics. Hopefully they work.....
Missing the tensioner pulley to the left of the alternator. I have the other for below the alternator but the bearing is shagged.

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RubysueEA82
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Post by RubysueEA82 » Fri Jan 08, 2016 12:12 am

Ok so it wasn't today, it was NYE actually, but what Maggie did to her Subie was drive the poor bugger into a power pole! :(

Maggie is ok, she's a bit sore but will live, RubySue however mightn't ever see the road again. The hit was enough to move the engine/transaxle enough to make the gear shift a bit queer. Spare tyre has shoved the air cleaner. When I picked it up from the towing place, Maggie said it might run, but although it had a half arsed cough, starting wasn't likely. I'll admit it's ruthless but I'm fairly proud that the starter was stout enough to crank the old girl onto the tilt trailer though.

I don't have photobucket so you'll have to squint at the avatar...

Now all I'd like to ask is this... does anyone on the forum have real life contact details for BlackMale in Perth? I'd like to talk to him about his advert & thus buying another L wagon, but the forum has been a bit unreliable thus far and Maggie is getting impatient. If anyone here could stir Craig up for me that'd be most appreciated.

Hope your new year is going better!

Cheers

Anthony

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Cliff R
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Post by Cliff R » Fri Jan 08, 2016 10:09 pm

I have just discovered rust in the MY's front LH guard has spread to the firewall pillar where the door hinges. Not structural but a pain the butt. Gonna be time consuming.
I am seeing having to pull the bull bar off, pull the LH guard off, get depressed over the damage, grind back and repair the pillar, get a new guard and fix this long overdue mess up.
Before finding all these issues, I have been looking for a new gear knob but wasn't keen to spend the dollars being asked for and wasn't happy with what was available from the usual places anyway
Ended up finding and buying this from ebay.
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I have a love/hate relationship with the sports wheel. Even though it is only 25mm smaller in diameter than the original it still doesn't feel right.
Anyway the old steering wheel is now back on but the knob is excellent.
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I am still waiting for the new external windscreen sun visor to arrive but this will be the last expensive item for the car for a while till I sort the front guard issue out and save some cash for rego in a few months.

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Tue Jan 12, 2016 6:57 am

torque monster ...

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Cliff R
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Post by Cliff R » Sun Jan 17, 2016 1:11 pm

My rear bumper spare wheel rack appears to have been designed for the likes of 14's or at least a rim with less offset than the Sunnies I have on the MY.
The rims are off my previous L series so they have about 10mm or so more offset that the MY rim meaning they have less chance of fitting the rack than other rims.
I would still like a set of (5) 13" x 5.5" with a nice offset for the MY but for now the L series Sunnies will do.
I have not been able to fit the spare to the rack due to the increased offset and the tyre hitting on the rack and not the rack mounting face.
Decided to do something about this so made a set of spacers from some square steel tube, used stainless spacer tubes inside the square tube, fitted 4 x pieces of 12mm stud bar (front to back of the rack) and also installed 4 x stainless spacers over the stud bar.
Now the spare fits the rack and the spacers can be removed at any time to accommodate a rim with less of an offset.
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Silverbullet
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Post by Silverbullet » Sat Apr 02, 2016 2:19 pm

New brake pads on the rear of the Brumby; having discs turns what used to be a 1 hour job (not including hustling the old drums off, cleaning the brake mud out and finding your brake pistons were leaking) into a less than half hour job :)

A bit annoyed though, my rear brakes started squealing the other week so I ordered some Bendix DB419 with express post, didn't want to be driving around too long on squealing brakes. Two days later and they're still not posted, I get a phone call on my mobile from the online vendor telling me the Bendix pads are discontinued, would I like this other brand replacement?
(Then why were they bloody well advertising Bendix pads!??!)
I said yes just because I (thought) I needed brake pads desperately by then.

When I got round to doing it this morning, the old pads still have 3-4mm of material left on them! probably another 2 years worth! :confused:

Oh well, changed them anyway and rotated my tires while I was at it.
Will it ever end!?
-EA81 TWIN CARB!!!!
-L series 5 speed
-Custom paint job
-2" lift
-Full custom re-wire
-L series front end
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Nubaru
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Post by Nubaru » Sat Apr 02, 2016 6:21 pm

I think you will find factory minimum is 2mm despite what pad makers suggest -4or 5mm. I like to know new pads are in and piston is further back in its bore and more robust might be the word?
member since 10january2014 #6191

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