What did you do to improve your soobie today

phantomD · Post by **phantomD** » Mon Jun 24, 2013 8:21 pm

Put a new battery in the Brumby...and this seems to have fixed the stalling problem I was having after first cold start.

Also fixed the problem of the battery running out of charge after cranking over about 5 times...

Esubie · Post by **Esubie** » Fri Jul 05, 2013 6:38 pm

Bought a Subie keyring , hahaha.

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Sat Jul 06, 2013 11:08 am

This all happened over the last week or so.
- changed the MY's gearbox oil for the first time since I fitted the manual back in 2001. Used Nulon 80W-90 with 2 tubes of Nulon additive.
- bought four 2nd hand rims off ebay 14" x 6. It was thought there were Speedys but I have a Speedy centre cap of a set of 13"s and it is a lot smaller than the hole in the rims. Maybe there are different for the 14's but I will have to source a set of centre caps. They were painted black is not what I wanted so they are being taken back to bare metal on the outside, viewable face with paint stripper an "elbow grease"
- rims came from a Suby wreckers so while there asked about a set of tyre 14" tyres. Picked up a set of 185/70/14's with about 80% plus tread.
- while at the wreckers had loaded the rims and tyres into the Zook wagon and thought, what the hell, do they have any Brumby/Leonie bull bars. Sure did, turn out it is the exact style of bar I used to have on the MY. Jammed all this into the Zook, loaded to the roof and an interesting trip around Newcastle doing what I had to and then home with very little ability to see out of any windows except the windscreen
- fitted the bull bar to the MY wagon
Before

After (needs a polish) - took a bit to get the headlight protectors back on too.

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Sat Jul 06, 2013 6:51 pm

Great score! Woohoo

Kalbarri_baru · Post by **Kalbarri_baru** » Sat Jul 06, 2013 10:16 pm

Since last post,

An extra Rola roof bar (three all up) this now supports a basket.

2 x 4 inch 55w HID spotties.

An alloy Roo Bar.

A clean second hand Bonnet (cut back and in grey primer).

A Next G, 3G and 4G compatible (Vodafone, Optus and Telstra Next G) heavy duty Aerial.

A Force Cradle for a Blue Tick Nokia 6120c with power, data and external aerial connections.

A Camera monitor where the digital clock used to be (just waiting for the night vision camera).

Better second hand door cards and plastics.

Purchased new Front and Rear KYB shocks (waiting to have them installed).

LED reverse globes.

Narva plus 120% H4 globes (not worth the $).

Genuine Subaru Plastic Headlight Protectors.

Complete basic service with fuel filter, Nippon Max WZ493NM oil filter, Ryco A337 air filter, Penrite HPR 15 Full synthetic 15W-60 oil and the front (alternator) fan belt.

Cheers WayneO

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Sun Jul 07, 2013 1:59 pm

looks a neat package there mate

AshR · Post by **AshR** » Mon Jul 08, 2013 1:09 pm

my brumby is running.

After not posting for aaaaggggeeeesssss.

I finally got around to buying a new battery for the brumby on saturday, after sorting out fireing order from the dizzy it's kicked over fine. idle is a little rough so might have to sort that out soon, but it's running.

needs clutch and new oil + filter.

but running is a very good start. (didn't even have to touch valves etc)

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sat Jul 13, 2013 3:56 pm

Just adjusted the valve clearances on the ute with my special new valve adjusting tool (like 2 sockets in 1 with 2 separate handles) That thing makes a huge difference to ease of adjustment and saves alot of time, since you can very finely adjust the tiny square to get the right clearance, and hold it there solid while you do up the lock nut. Only a few valves were too loose (mainly on #1 cylinder) but it was making a horrendous clattering sound, and with a noticeable loss in power. Adjusted them to factory specs when cold although I went to the tight end of "a light drag" on the feeler gauges.

Result? almost silent on startup, and absolutely no valve noise when warmed up with a bit more pep to boot. Pretty good result I'd say

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Sat Jul 13, 2013 4:23 pm

that tappet tool available on the market? if not how do you make it? sounds great to me.

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sat Jul 13, 2013 4:32 pm

It certainly is, Schley products #89700

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-12-mm-VA ... 1257862395

Made in the US and very good quality. A member here ordered a few of them from the US since they weren't available in Aus and posted them out. Can't remember which website he used, but they're on ebay as well. Makes a painful job alot easier and will be added to my travelling toolbox as well

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sat Jul 13, 2013 11:53 pm

AshR wrote:my brumby is running.

After not posting for aaaaggggeeeesssss.

I finally got around to buying a new battery for the brumby on saturday, after sorting out fireing order from the dizzy it's kicked over fine. idle is a little rough so might have to sort that out soon, but it's running.

That's awesome news mate!

How long until you reckon it's on the road? Been a while now

Cheers

Bennie

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Sun Jul 14, 2013 12:52 am

after much searching (many dont send to Oz) have found this site

https://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisp ... SCLSL89700 they will send the tool to Oz but they will email me first.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Jul 14, 2013 1:48 am

there is always the highly praised priceusa.com.au who can get you stuff from US suppliers for minimal charge of 5% over $200 purchases and has a minimum charge for under. Operates from one of those Victorian joints begins with a B , allarat or endigo.

I fixed the bloody annoythecrapouttame rattle from the MY glovebox lock - third attempt! Lid buffer rubbers did not do it, nor did an O ring placement, finally - lock out again and simply wrapped the cheap, thin white teflon tape around and into the small gap just after the chrome outer knob until it tightened things up in there, reassembled - nerve fray saved !

mumbleman · Post by **mumbleman** » Sun Jul 14, 2013 7:52 pm

Got power antenna ,cigarette lighter outlet, boot release as well as one of the power window switches working in sons new 1994 liberty.
Now what to do about heater core problem, smells of coolant and fogs up. But doesnt over heat. To replace heater core or bypass and let him get cold.

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Sun Jul 14, 2013 9:58 pm

circa 1976. Had a VC 1966 Valiant but not the Regal model. no heater. Valiants them days had two large fresh air boxes each side of the front cabin, open them up and they would nearly put you in the back seat. Problem is they didnt seal well at all. I put up with the cold.

Then one day touring NSW it was bitterly cold. Slept on the back seat till 3am then woke. Drove to nearest town and my feet were numb. Thawed out and local ambo driver told me I near had frost bite.

NEVER will I go cold again lol......hence why Tweety has heaters haha

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon Jul 15, 2013 8:10 am

Shoved a new all LEDs working third eye brake light inside top of the Brumby rear window.

It is a canopy rear window double sided tape stick on job, to replace the 80% dud LED bar I fitted up with silicone, hardwired and all. This time used inline power socket and plug for easier replacement.

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Mon Jul 15, 2013 6:44 pm

Not long ago I posted a digital unit that allows you to adjust the cut in temp for activating thermo fans. This is the second time the unit has fouled.

Last time the digital readout failed and was sent a replacement. This time there was no way I could trace the issue. So I'm bypassing it. The Alfa 33 radiator has a bung for a sender unit just for this purpose- a fan sender switch. Ebay $22 with postage free. how's that?

Means I wont have a temp gauge at all. Sender cuts in and out when required (83-89 deg). The truck reversing horn for when coolant temps go over 95 degrees turns on automatically too. Less stress. the older you get the less buttons you want to press.

Bumpty · Post by **Bumpty** » Tue Jul 16, 2013 6:32 pm

Pulled out the old twin turbos (in the hope to improve my soobie) and now my limited mechanical knowledge has seen the process of swapping in the new turbos, slow down considerably...

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Tue Jul 16, 2013 8:21 pm

Welp, yesterday I found out why my rear wheel wells are full of water after rain... My rear right seatbelt was wet - confused I had a look around to find my window rubber leaking in the corner, letting water in that trickles down the side of the wall onto the seatbelt reel, then I presume it makes it's way down the wheel arch to the back of the car.
This could have been happening for quite some time now as I've sealed the wheel wells to stop dust and mud entering the inside of the cab. I've not really traced the issue until now.

I'm thinking some sikaflex forced between the window and the rubber might be the go here - anyone had to do this before?

Cheers

Bennie

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Tue Jul 16, 2013 8:36 pm

It's amazing where water works it's way into sometimes. Your problem reminds me of the issue I had in my wagon after the drivers door was smashed in; on a rainy night parked on a slope the drivers footwell would be a swimming pool. I spent hours re-seating the new door and poking around with the rubber...eventually found the water was actually coming in through the door behind it

and seeped it's way through under the floor finyl to the front of the car.

If it's the rear quarter glass and not the door glass you're talking about sikaflex could work, but I fear applying it from the inside would only trap the water in the window channel and rust it out.