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Minor collision, passenger side front fender and wheel pushed in...

Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 11:28 am
by 2nd Hand Yank
Is anyone in the Perth area free to come by (Spearwood) and help me out this weekend? :confused:

I think I was hit at about 15-20km/h by a Ford Laser
and this pushed the top of the wheel inwards about 10 cm/4 inches.
Managed to limp it back home.

Bent or broken:

- fender

- the bolt connecting the steering... it seems like it's a knuckle that might be able to screw in and out.

- the bolt connecting the lower suspension arm has a torn bushing, perhaps this is bent a little?

- a casting knuckle is also perhaps skewed a few millimetres (:???:) but there's a bolt there, so perhaps it's just pivoted slightly

- for some reason, there's a slight whistling sound coming from somewhere in my pulleys

- the CV joint is at a strange angle, but it just followed the bent joint. The car seems to drive fine and the steering works as it should, albeit a bit of rubbing and strange camber/caster.

I now have my car up on two "safety stands" with both front wheels off.
I was going to run it in gear to see if it makes any noises.
I'm also going to remove the bent front fender. This fender had rust anyways.

Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 12:23 pm
by RSR 555
Sorry Matt but I'm away at work at the moment but was the accident your fault? if not then just get it fixed by a suspension workshop, as you'll need an alignment anyway and they will be paying anyway :)

I'm sure someone else can help, if they are free. Can you take some pics of the offending items? Then we could let you know what you may need to replace.

Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 3:25 pm
by 2nd Hand Yank
RSR 555 wrote:Sorry Matt but I'm away at work at the moment but was the accident your fault? if not then just get it fixed by a suspension workshop, as you'll need an alignment anyway and they will be paying anyway :)

I'm sure someone else can help, if they are free. Can you take some pics of the offending items? Then we could let you know what you may need to replace.
No it was my mistake. Settled privately at the other bloke's request.

I'll see if I can post some pictures later.

Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 3:48 pm
by guyph_01
Ive got fenders, Aftermarket Monroe shocks with yellow king springs, bolts, newish steering rack ends but no lower ball joints, let me know if you need anything.

Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 4:01 pm
by Dikman
Sounds similar, damage-wise, to mine, just before Christmas. My wife was waiting to turn across traffic (to enter a shopping centre) and the guy coming towards her, in the lane closest, stopped to let her cross in front! She didn't see the car coming behind him in the other lane!!! I told her NEVER cross in front like that unless it's a single lane road. That guy should never have stopped like that - he disappeared as soon as the cars hit, strangely enough.

Anyhow, the front passenger fender was replaced, inside engine compartment knocked out, front bumper and the mounting section behind it replaced, new battery (battery compartment had been pushed in slightly, so the repairer figured the battery might have a crack somewhere) and "something" in the suspension, not sure what. My wife drove it home, and after I straightened a few bits out I tested it and it drove fine, but when I looked at it something looked wrong. Checking the wheel base found the left was 2" shorter than the right!

All up around $5,000 to repair (had to remove the air-con condenser and radiator, which probably didn't help cost-wise). I was still on my original battery (Oct 2004) and it was still going strong, but I figured my insurance excess pretty well covered what a new battery might have cost me before long, so I'm not complaining. The repairer seemed to do a pretty good job, car looks fine.

Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 4:13 pm
by 2nd Hand Yank
pictures:

[ATTACH]3164[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]3165[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]3166[/ATTACH]

Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 4:19 pm
by 2nd Hand Yank
more pictures

Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 4:21 pm
by 2nd Hand Yank
and another

Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 4:50 pm
by guyph_01
Looks like a bent strut or hub to me, Steering ends are fine i think. They are ball joint and move anyway.
You might have to take the strut out to be sure.

Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 5:44 pm
by RSR 555
Definately a bent strut. I would replace this.. I'm sure KPM (aka Guyph) would have one lying around. Maybe even fit for you. Then take the car for a wheel alignment and they'll let you know if anything else needs replacing.

Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 5:47 pm
by RSR 555
Oh.. and as for the fender.. I can't see too much damage, so I'd leave it on.

Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 6:25 pm
by steptoe
And let them know you are fixing it up after the said bingle just so they know to be on the look out for things

Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 6:29 pm
by discopotato03
I don't know about on your coast but in Sydney there are "pre loved" spares in you pull it type wreckers .
I'd be replacing the strut and knuckle - and the ball joint and tie rod end even with good second hand uncrunched ones . In fact if you can find a good wrecked L you may consider taking the shaft as well because then it all "falls" back in .

Oh , nearly forgot - take a VERY close look at your brake caliper and its hydraulic hose and hard line . Those old hoses get brittle with age and if its partially damaged/torn replace it because its not worth dieing for if it fails .

Lastly explain the situation to the bloke doing the alignment because he can take a close look undernerath at everything , and if the strut tower or crossmember has moved he'll see stranger than standard numbers on the alignment gear .

Sorry one more . When everythings fixed and the steering pointed straight ahead measure along both sides between the wheel centers . You would be surprised how many show room fresh cars are not even let alone with a bit of "drift damage" ...

PITA , been there but my damage was only panel work ie headlight guard front filler bit and a few choice thumps on the radiator support panel .
Frantic hours work had it looking acceptable and I was just lucky I had the bits in the cave . Silly bovine that backed into me was honest enough to cough up the cash and got off lightly .
Lady repeat after me , "Never never never back up in a one way street without looking and ignoring frantic bellows to stop ".
Ellie been very wary of she dev er drivers ever since .

A .

Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 7:38 pm
by guyph_01
Fender looks pushed in just before the door and he also wants to replace it as its full on rust with holes. KPM is happy to fit it for you but its a long drive to my place.

Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 7:50 pm
by taza
Thats not good Matt, hope shes an easy fix!

Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 9:06 pm
by Captain Obvious
yeha looks like bent strut and maybe hub, id start there and see how you go!!

bryan

Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 9:11 pm
by Wagonman
Hey Matt.. You're in my area! I cant help this weekend but next weekend i can if you still need.

I would recommend just getting new ball joints and suspension now while you are doing the work. If you get all the parts together over the next week we could get it all together next weekend maybe.

I have a quite a few spares too so if you theres anything you're struggling to get just PM me and i might be able to help.

I fixed both of my stuff ups so yours will be no worries

Image

Image

Must be something creepy going on with all these LHF hits!

Wagonman.. (John)

Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 9:12 pm
by El_Freddo
"Good" work there mate! I think you got off light!

The strut will definitely be bent, If the wheel wobbles as it turns the hub will be bent but I doubt that the hub assembly (cast iron part that everything mounts to) is bent, that'd break before it bent.

The CV shaft should be good. Guard looks fine.

Much damage to the other car?

Glad you weren't hurt, pride may have been damaged but that's repairable.

Cheers

Bennie

Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 10:27 pm
by 2nd Hand Yank
RSR 555 wrote:Oh.. and as for the fender.. I can't see too much damage, so I'd leave it on.
The door will only open 10-15 cm before rubbing on the fender.
That's why I thought I should replace it.

Unless... there's a way to pull it straight from the outside.
No access to hammer it back out from the inside. :???:

Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 11:02 pm
by 2nd Hand Yank
Gregories manual says to disconnect and "plug" the brake line to prevent excess loss of fluid.

Do I need a special spanner for this?
How do I plug the line?