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Having de ja vu with my 82 coupe after lots of tuning ignition and problems with my 83 wagon a few years ago. misfire/hesitation, poor idle, knocking etc. Timing jumps from the factory spec 6 degrees to 10 at random.

All consumable ignition compnents that can be replaced have been. Ran like a dream for 2500 kms of my trip to mt isa, now quickly degenerating.

Quick swap to new points solved the problem for half a day. Third set of brand new points a day later changed nothing.

I suspect worn disty bushing, curios to know what others have done to fix them. Or if it could be something else.


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change points gap changes timing so if block wears down or the contacts pit you get a change and don't ask me which way, not done this in years. Though think if gap reduces timing retards rather than go the other way.
If your setting goes from 6 to 10 does it go back to 6 again. You also need to be mindful of the idle speed when checking - needs to be same to get correct readings.

Good excuse to go for electronic.

Old rule of thumb was if change points also change condensor to be on safe side
Are points contacts ashing up grey or maybe yellow ??

Obvious question but did you disconnect and plug the vac advance line when checking the timing? Something I've forgotten before but wouldn't help your issue. Also does ignition coil fall under consumables? I had some very strange gremlins with misfiring, changed coil and all was fixed.

Point are fouling up with grey shit. I haven't changed any condensers, i noticed there's 1 on the disty and 1 on the coil. Do both? So when i said all consumables i meant minus condensors and coil Is a condenser a condensor, or are there different types/ratings?

Timing set at 800rpm, with vac advance blocked off.. Timing is erretically jumping around, back and forth between 6 and 10btdc, probably worse now. Hard to set now it jumps, i haven't changed the timing since it started doing that.

I have a dwell meter, what dwell angle should i be setting for? Only got points gap info.

Found fly guys choosing points over electronic and talking about 200 hours reliable flight without adjustment.

What coil should i buy? Gt40r and gt40 both chewed through point when i tried them on my wagon. Ended up going optical ignition on that car with succes. This machine is so unmolested though so i'd much prefer a stock looking solution.

Do the ea81 electronic dist wear bushes aswell? Put off sourcing second hand if it could also be worn. I am aware you can replace the module jigger in it.

Worn dist bushes seems a common problem, probsbly resulted in a few cars been sent to the wreckers.

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Even with this issue the car used less than 8ltrs per 100km from winton to mt isa, very impressed with it

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probably why it got that !

Had another look over things. Almost 2mm play in points due to worn dist bushes. Was solid 3000km ago, just glad it got me to mt isa. Reman electronic unit coming in the mail, along with bosch coil that is a close match for the fact unit for the elect. dist.

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If it's points based ignition with a ballast resistor (white block on the coil) you need the GT40R (R for resistor) if you're swapping to electronic I don't think they have a resistor so you just use the GT40.

Venom wrote:Had another look over things. Almost 2mm play in points due to worn dist bushes. Was solid 3000km ago, just glad it got me to mt isa. Reman electronic unit coming in the mail, along with bosch coil that is a close match for the fact unit for the elect. dist.

Glad it got you to Mt Isa! The new electronic unit is a drop in set and forget? I hope this is the only issue you have with it! Cruisie and comfy ride otherwise?

Cheers

Bennie

The little coupe is a great cruiser. Ea81 seats are comfy.

Recieved a distributor in the mail. Electronic type number 429878110 stamped on it. Do these use the same rotor and cap as points type or is it different?

There are 2 terminals on the ignition module. I beleive these connect straight to the coil? 1 to +, 1 to -. But which on the module is +/-? Not labelled.

Any help appreciated.

Cool cap and rotor is the same. Search is a wonderfull thing. no info on the wiring though...

can you see a similarity in wires from dizzy and those already on dizzy ? Yellow from dizzy to mate with yellow wires already to coil, and red from dizzy to the other terminal with red wires going to it .....

New dizzy in, wired by trial and error. Vac advance not as good as 2wd unit. Works great though and car running well again.

Venom wrote:New dizzy in, wired by trial and error. Vac advance not as good as 2wd unit. Works great though and car running well again.

Good to hear mate! Many many happy km's to come I'm sure!

Cheers

Bennie

Just be wary that you'll blow the bum out of the non electronic coil. There's a difference in the resistance of the coil.
I think from memory that if you use an electronic coil with points, the points burn.

original coil was in, which leaked when i took it out? As someone mentioned earlier it was probably a faulty condenser causing the original problem.

New transitor type coil fitted at the same time as dizzy to match the electronic style.