Help adjusting camber on a brumby......

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Chopper05
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Help adjusting camber on a brumby......

Post by Chopper05 » Tue Sep 25, 2012 12:55 pm

Hey guys,

I need a hand in how to adjust the front wheel caber on my brumby. Its toeing in alot rather than flat or even toeing out. Need to adjust so it goes around corners a bit better. I am handy with a car but by no means a mechanic. I read the workshop manual and it doesn't really explain it too well.

Can anyone shed some light on how i do it? Can imagine it would be too hard....
1992 Brumby

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TOONGA
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Post by TOONGA » Tue Sep 25, 2012 1:25 pm

Chopper camber is no ajustable and set from factory :(

you can make adjustable camber blocks like Rumbl1n did here

showthread.php?t=21469

but you will need to make the rest of the lift kit as well.

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coupe
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Post by coupe » Tue Sep 25, 2012 2:01 pm

When i had my leone coupe i filed the strut bolt holes on the engine side in by a 1/2 inch this gave me roughly 0 or 1/2 deg pos camber instead of 1 deg pos.
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Bantum
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Caster ...

Post by Bantum » Tue Sep 25, 2012 7:25 pm

I think some is confused with Camber / Caster ... :confused:

To fix Camber : As suggested is not easliy done, as you need to move the top of strut or put in spacer's to adjust ... :(

To fix Caster : See later post ... :0

To fix Toe : Place a string line along side car ( close as practicle to wheels ) or park along side a strait edge in floor. Jack up & put on stand ( if you have them ) loosen the tie rod arms on either side of steering rack & adjust. You'll need to get the wheel's pointing in the same diection ( square to body / string line ) so best to measure both sides of front wheel ( inside easier ) & usually they have a slight amount of toe out.

Make sure the steering wheel is dead center too ... ;)

Once your happy with your allignment tighten everything back up. It helps to have some one assist in checking that visually everything is looking right.

Take it for test drive to check you haven't over done it ... :D

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littlewhiteute
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Post by littlewhiteute » Tue Sep 25, 2012 7:44 pm

Bantum wrote:I think some is confused with Camber / Caster ... :confused:

Must think like : Camber is vertical + Caster is hoizontal ... :cool:

To fix Camber : As suggested is not easliy done, as you need to move the top of strut or put in spacer's to adjust ... :(

To fix Caster : Place a string line along side car ( close as practicle to wheels ) or park along side a strait edge in floor. Jack up & put on stand ( if you have them ) loosen the tie rod arms on either side of steering rack & adjust.
You'll need to get the wheel's pointing in the same diection ( square to body / string line ) so best to measure both sides of front wheel ( inside easier ) & usually they have a slight amount of toe out.

Make sure the steering wheel is dead center too ... ;)

Once your happy with your allignment tighten everything back up. It helps to have some one assist in checking that visually everything is looking right.

Take it for test drive to check you haven't over done it ... :D
Misleading info.

Camber is vertical, negative leans in like a racecar, positive leans out like a early VW.

Caster is strut inclination away from the vertical looking from the SIDE of the car.
Positive Caster leans towards the back of the car.

You DO NOT adjust tie rods for Caster.

Adjustable Caster rods allow Caster adjustment.

Tie rods are for Toe-in/out adjustment only.
Regards

Gary ;)

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Chopper05
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Post by Chopper05 » Wed Sep 26, 2012 12:33 am

So just to clarify my two front wheels are running on the outer edges of the tyres, not flat. Looking at it from the front of the car the bottom of the wheels are closer at the bottom than they are at the top. so that is positive camber? and can be fixed by adjusting tie rod ends? :D
1992 Brumby

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revmax
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Post by revmax » Wed Sep 26, 2012 6:02 am

lower the front end by backing off the height adjusting nuts on the struts
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Gannon
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Post by Gannon » Wed Sep 26, 2012 6:20 am

If its positive camber, it cant be adjusted by the tie rod ends. What 'littlewhiteute' posted is correct, what 'bantum' posted isnt.

Check this out,
Image

Technically it shouldnt need adjusting if nothing on you car has changed. But the above suggestion of filing the bolt holes inwards should do the trick
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TOONGA
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Post by TOONGA » Wed Sep 26, 2012 8:58 am

Gannon wrote:If its positive camber, it cant be adjusted by the tie rod ends. What 'littlewhiteute' posted is correct, what 'bantum' posted isnt.

Check this out,
Image

Technically it shouldnt need adjusting if nothing on you car has changed. But the above suggestion of filing the bolt holes inwards should do the trick
+1 it is set at the factory and is non ajustable,(my very first post was missing an "N") unless you modify the strut tops or the bolt holes the camber is always positive on the MY - MV.

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Correction ...

Post by Bantum » Wed Sep 26, 2012 2:37 pm

littlewhiteute wrote:Misleading info.

Camber is vertical, negative leans in like a racecar, positive leans out like a early VW.

Caster is strut inclination away from the vertical looking from the SIDE of the car.
Positive Caster leans towards the back of the car.

You DO NOT adjust tie rods for Caster.

Adjustable Caster rods allow Caster adjustment.

Tie rods are for Toe-in/out adjustment only.
Sorry guys, I was in a rush last night - correction made ... :oops:

P.S. - I'm using a public library computer, which has a cut off time limiter ... :(

Note: Caster rods can be found on the lower arm of suspension - they run from outer end or arm, back at an angle to the fire wall, where the nut is. ( the sway bay is also attached to it ) You can get some minor forward adjustment by putting spacers in - backwards if you 'em take out.

So it's not really necessary to adjust Caster, unless you have a lift kit installed or the car is bent for some reason ... :o

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Toe in ...

Post by Bantum » Wed Sep 26, 2012 2:44 pm

Chopper05 wrote: ... So just to clarify my two front wheels are running on the outer edges of the tyres, not flat. Looking at it from the front of the car the bottom of the wheels are closer at the bottom than they are at the top. So that is positive camber? ...
Correct, See here :

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Chopper05 wrote: ... and can be fixed by adjusting tie rod ends ? ...
No, see prevoius comments about strut mounts & adjustments ... :)

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Chopper05
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Post by Chopper05 » Wed Sep 26, 2012 7:54 pm

From the chart longs posted its definitely positive camber! Might look at making up some brackets for the top of the strut. It is currently adjusted as low as it goes
1992 Brumby

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Post by brumbyrunner » Wed Sep 26, 2012 10:30 pm

Before you start making adjustable strut tops or slotting the mounting holes in your strut towers, you might want to check the condition of your suspension components. Bent struts, broken strut tops, bent lower control arms and worn out lower control arm bushes are just some of the things that can cause camber changes.
The front camber in an MY is set from the factory and has proved to be fine unless you start changing things.
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Chopper05
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Post by Chopper05 » Wed Sep 26, 2012 10:37 pm

Not sure it's anything faulty as is the same on both sides but will definitely check all that before I make anything.
1992 Brumby

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stork955
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Post by stork955 » Fri Sep 28, 2012 6:29 pm

G'day, all the earlier Subaru's have heaps of postive camber and toe out from the factory (My's and L's). It is normal - no need to adjust anything unless your tires are wearing unevenly (on the edge). It just looks weird compared to a "normal" rear drive car.

Cheers,

Stork

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