A long list of repairs...

ScubyRoo · Post by **ScubyRoo** » Fri Jan 10, 2014 1:46 pm

Hey guys,

The outback went into Pedders today for a check up, and a long list of things to repair in the steering and suspension came up. The list is below.

I'm not concerned with handling/comfort at the moment - my wife and I are only in the country for 6 weeks of the year. So what I would like is for your thoughts on what do you guys think are SAFETY critical. I already have my thoughts, but I want to hear yours first.

Front Suspension
Shocks - soft and leaking ($795)
Strut mounting plate - sagged/collapsed (inc. in the above)
Lower ball joint - excessive moment, require replacement ($241)
Radius Rod and Bushes - Bushes Worn Causing Excessive Movement ($370)
Outer Tie Rod Ends - Excessive Movement, Require Replacement ($189)
Sway Bar and Bushes - D Bushes Worn, requires replacement ($239)
Sway Bar Links - Link bushes worn (inc. in above)
Steering Gear - worn and leaking ($796)

Front Brakes
Front pads and rotors ($365)

Rear Suspension
Shocks ($542)
Lateral Arms - inserts required ($154)
X-member mounts - Rear diff mount bushes worn/broken ($365)
Sway bar bushes and links - D bushes worn, link bushes worn ($241)

The costs in brackets are for both parts and labour. Many of these things I could do myself, but I don't have my tools or a garage...

Thanks for your help,
Owen

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Jan 10, 2014 6:33 pm

I'd take it to an authorised inspector for a rego safety check/change of ownership and get their opinion if they do it in Vic. Would not show or tell them what you know here above - you want an independent inspection report. Ask for whatever report they will do, even if you have to pretend change of ownership, take plates off around the corner .... I believe some very good vehicle inspections will report on a component as soon as it is out by a mm of freeplay. State vehicle inspections can allow , well, used to be a total of 6mm freeplay, 3mm for newer vehicles or commercials ? The above will likely bring everything back to new spec. I have seen a fellow go to similar extent and still had the problem he went in complaining about in the first place. If he went to a place that sold tyres - his coplaint would have been resolved sans suspension overhaul.

FujiFan · Post by **FujiFan** » Fri Jan 10, 2014 11:48 pm

+1 I agree with steptoe.

All front end components equal safety/comfort, esp in a synergistic total. What do you do?
If your only driving it six weeks a year with that in mind, hard to justify $$$.
Again they are all things that would equal a beautiful drive if fixed.

ktmtragic · Post by **ktmtragic** » Sat Jan 11, 2014 8:19 am

Get a second opinion before shelling out, may save you a fortune

Point · Post by **Point** » Sat Jan 11, 2014 9:47 am

just about all of those things look important from a safety point of view, but it all depends on how bad they really are. I have had those checks done on some of my cars before and it almost looked like they hadn't really checked the car, they had just quoted to replace every moving part on the car. The prices quoted seem excessive too. I can understand if you were only doing one thing at a time, but a lot of those things can be done at the same time which should save labour costs.

One cause for concern is the quote for Radius rod and bushes. Outbacks don't have radius rods. That might be the control arm bushes? You would think they could get the names right.

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Sat Jan 11, 2014 3:53 pm

Pedders are infamous for quoting high & recommending repairs that arent really needed.

Can you check the wheels for movement: jack it up & wobble the tyre side to side (tie rods) & top to bottom (ball joints/wheel bearings).

Can you see any leaks in the steering rack or losing fluid? If not dont worry.

Dont worry bout the swaybar bushes & end links, some people disconnect them!

If you've raised the suspension, the lower control arm rear bushes are likely buggered, good time to replace them with caster offset bushes. After lifting they need to be loosened then retightened to remove the tension on them caused by twisting. Mine were visibly leaking plus awful play in them.

You can check the brake pads yourself, just take the wheels off & look. Feel the disc for grooves, if bad needs machining or replacement

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Tue Feb 11, 2014 2:18 pm

Definitely go for a few more quotes from some other places