Dash removal tricks L-series

GTlegs · Post by **GTlegs** » Mon Jun 25, 2007 5:07 pm

Fellas, are there any tricks/traps about removing the l-series dash in addition to the instructions shown in the Gregorys manual?

Thanks

Fang · Post by **Fang** » Mon Jun 25, 2007 5:14 pm

The cluster or the whole dashboard?

GTlegs · Post by **GTlegs** » Mon Jun 25, 2007 9:12 pm

The whole thing (ned to change heater core)

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Mon Jun 25, 2007 9:14 pm

I've heard there's a nifty shortcut you can take in an MY based car which allows you to change the heater core without actually removing the dashboard.
Not sure if there is a similar trick for L series as I havn't tried yet but I hope there is....my core needs replacing too!

Smokey · Post by **Smokey** » Mon Jun 25, 2007 9:45 pm

When I changed my heater core I pulled the whole dash out. Good time to clean any rust if you have any also.

The dash quite plainly sucked to get it out. It was this time last year and i was working in the dark each night in the cold. Putting it back in was not so much hard as it was fiddly. The only tip I'd suggest is find a way to get the core out with out removing the dash, and let us know how..lol or remove the whole dash, but in my case it was hard to maneuver it round the steering column, not sure how as its hard to explain. When its all undone just hoist it up in the air, rope off to the sun visor brackets. That way you will able to work on the core and when finished just untie it and lower back into place.

I removed the whole heater box from the car to work on, and removing both front seats and console gives you room to work. Now is a great time to install any wiring and switches for lights/gauges also.

I also replaced all the rubber/foam seals on each of the flaps inside the heater box to. Just to make it all seal nice.

Needless to say my core is leaking again, so it might be wise to replace the small hoses also, as I think that is whats wrong w mine now. These are small and shaped so might be worth getting genuine Subaru articles also. If you do post the cost on here for the rest of us

And a big good luck as its a fairy easy and straight forward but tedious and annoying job to do. Especially when its such an easy job to replace the core once the damn dash is out.

Matatak · Post by **Matatak** » Mon Jun 25, 2007 10:28 pm

well if its that bad a job then cut through the firewalla and pull it out then weld it back up lol

stamp_licker · Post by **stamp_licker** » Tue Jun 26, 2007 10:00 am

pull th steering wheel.Ive heard,but not done,that can prop it out of the way while getting to the core.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Jun 26, 2007 1:14 pm

a mate did an L heater core not long ago, I noticed he had both front seats out and removed steering wheel with the column to make it easier

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Tue Jun 26, 2007 1:38 pm

I've had the dash out of my L three times in the past year. I couldn't pull the steering wheel off so just unbolted it from its firewall support (3 bolts) and let it hang there or sit on the drivers seat. I've never removed the front seats.

There are 7 main bolts that hold the dash in place, 5 are under little tabs that you gently lever up/out. One in each corner under the windscreen, on above the clock, one on the lower left hand side and right hand side. the last two are under the ash-tray behind that little compartment. In my L this compartment is removable without taking the console out, but if your worried you'll break it remove the console, its an easy process too.

Then all the wiring needs to be diconnected, the fuse box needs to be un-screwed and left to hang, behind it there are 3 or 4 large clips that will need to be undone, these are white, black, blue and brown if you have four, in a little bracket that's held by 2 nuts, i find it easier to undo the nuts so i can move this bracket to get the plugs out. Numerous wiring clips on the lower left and right hand side also need to be undone along with some air con clips on the left hand side behind the glove box (two screws removes the glovebox). The heater box temp slider cable will need to be undone with the vacuum lines - do this at the heater box near the drivers feet. Then the two vents (left and right) have a wire cable that need to be undone, and another vacuum hose (not real important, it will come undone if you forget about it). The speedo cable needs to be pulled out too (can do while dash is still in).

Then you have to lift the whole thing off a little tab that it all hangs from, piss-fart around a little bit and it will come out the passenger's side door. Then right in front of you is the heater box. Two bolts (or is it four, sorry can't remember but think its only two), an airconditioner duct clamp and the two heater hoses from the engine bay is all that's holding you back, oh, and some other little bracket that sits in front of it all (two nuts).

Its a little long winded in the reading department but once your on it you'll see what needs to be done.

Cheers

FROG · Post by **FROG** » Tue Jun 26, 2007 2:15 pm

These are small and shaped so might be worth getting genuine Subaru articles also. If you do post the cost on here for the rest of us

72006GA372 25.88 + GST
72006GA361 25.88 + GST

BlackMale · Post by **BlackMale** » Tue Jun 26, 2007 2:52 pm

Nope no easy way to this sh_t of a job just rip her out (you do know that you have to lift it slightly as its on kinds hooks near the screen - it will not just fall on the floor)… its putting it back where the REAL fun begins.

Smokey · Post by **Smokey** » Tue Jun 26, 2007 8:50 pm

GREENTREEFROG wrote: 72006GA372 25.88 + GST
72006GA361 25.88 + GST

Good stuff mate, makes this thread just that little bit more helpful down the track as a reference guide/how-to. And top instructions El_Freddo! Those heater cables were hard to get back together, and that air vent (drivers side) I still can't get it connected, just can't get my hand in there to connect the cable.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Fri Jun 29, 2007 11:33 pm

Smokey wrote:Those heater cables were hard to get back together, and that air vent (drivers side) I still can't get it connected, just can't get my hand in there to connect the cable.

No worries... as i've said, done it a few times in the last year...

Yeah, those cables are hard to do, especially if you have tradesman hands (no offence meant to anyone out there with tradies hands), i'm lucky that i've sorta still got my 'school boy' hands. Persistance has been the key for me at times.

Good luck with them.

Cheers

eaglebrad · Post by **eaglebrad** » Wed Mar 19, 2008 7:06 pm

Well I followed the instructions from El Freddo and the dash removal isn't so bad. It was particulary easy the second time.... First time I removed the dash, removed the heater box, took out the core and replaced the heater box and dash. Took 2 1/2 hours. Next day I rang the repair place and they said they wanted the heater box as well to make sure the repaired core fits. Nice...............
Next time I removed the dash in about 1/2 hour. Only problem I have now is that the aerial wire that connects the radio to the external aerial is hanging from the radio and I can't find where it connects. So much for rushing.

Any ideas where the connector is (between the external aerial wire and the wire hanging out of the radio.

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Wed Mar 19, 2008 7:30 pm

Should only be a few inches back from the radio. I can really remember as i cut mine off cos the connector was broken. Maybe somewhere near the heater box

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Wed Mar 19, 2008 9:51 pm

Suparoo wrote:Should only be a few inches back from the radio. I can really remember as i cut mine off cos the connector was broken. Maybe somewhere near the heater box

The aerial comes down the driver's side A pillar, under the floor covering of the driver's feet up to the side of the heater box near the driver's feet... This is where the end piece of the aerial will be, it can typically be re-joined without removing the radio if you have an extention lead from the radio hanging out the back.

To get more length with the aerial, remove its path from under the driver's feet and re-route it under the dash above the driver's feet. I realise this brings it near all the electrical equipment (fuse box etc) but I have not had any problems with my radio reception. This will give you more cable to play with...

Hope this helps.

Bennie

eaglebrad · Post by **eaglebrad** » Wed Apr 02, 2008 7:33 pm

Thanks for all the advise guys. Finally got my repaired core back from the radiator shop. Removed the dash again and replaced the heater box ets. Found the other end to the radio aerial wire (right next to the clutch pedal under the matting. Got all the vent cables connected and am now back in action.

Once again all the advise from the forum members who responded made a painful job much less so.

esray71 · Post by **esray71** » Thu Apr 03, 2008 6:04 pm

mine is stuffed aswell..... how much did it cost you to get the heater core fixed?? and who does these kind of repairs?

scrumpy · Post by **scrumpy** » Thu Apr 03, 2008 6:15 pm

Thanks to all the guys who contributed to this thread especially el freddo. I was going to attempt this job next week and this makes me a little more confident!

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sat Apr 05, 2008 6:43 am

scrumpy wrote:Thanks to all the guys who contributed to this thread especially el freddo. I was going to attempt this job next week and this makes me a little more confident!

Hey no worries. If I can help someone out by writing up a guide to something i've done a few times I'm happy to do it.

Glad its helped out.

Cheers

Bennie