manual immobilizer suggestions...
manual immobilizer suggestions...
If the car is parked somewhere more than a day, what precautions do you do?
say for a OBW...
steering lock - yes
well yeah can pull the fuses, but that might be too easy to check.
(have an immobilizer, but been too lazy to put it in,err been trying to trace out its circuit diagram....might take a while yet)
Pull some sensor plug, so its not obvious, which would be the best one?
say for a OBW...
steering lock - yes
well yeah can pull the fuses, but that might be too easy to check.
(have an immobilizer, but been too lazy to put it in,err been trying to trace out its circuit diagram....might take a while yet)
Pull some sensor plug, so its not obvious, which would be the best one?
- Gannon
- Senior Member
- Posts: 4580
- Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Bowraville, Mid Nth Coast, NSW
Leave a heap of thumb-tac's on the drivers seat
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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Well you could just unplug the fuel pump or even its fuse that way its not to noticeable and they just give up when it wont start, disconnecting starters and even imobilisors won't always stop them. From my experience its best not to aggrevate these youths otherwise you end up with no more than a beaten up shell And police that apparently have more important things to do!
- Gannon
- Senior Member
- Posts: 4580
- Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Bowraville, Mid Nth Coast, NSW
Yeah pull the fuel pump fuse and replace it with a blown one, then it wont be noticable
Also, if you remove the fuse, the engine will still start, but not for long, it'll maybe run for 5 seconds.
Also, if you remove the fuse, the engine will still start, but not for long, it'll maybe run for 5 seconds.
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
------------------------------------------
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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it may not start at all if there's no primage.
maybe if its the L, put it in the neutural gear between 4wd lo and high, might take em longer to work it out, even if they do get it started.
also you could install a kill switch - its a good idea even with an immobiliser.
thumb tacks sounds like an excellent idea hahaha.
maybe if its the L, put it in the neutural gear between 4wd lo and high, might take em longer to work it out, even if they do get it started.
also you could install a kill switch - its a good idea even with an immobiliser.
thumb tacks sounds like an excellent idea hahaha.

- FROG
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THATS GREAT LOLgx_rex wrote:If its auto leave it in gear. This happened to my uncle a few years back, car broken into and attempted hot wire but didnt check that it was left in drive.
PLUS ONE FOR THE GOOD GUYS

KILL SWITCH IMHO YOU CAN GET CREATIVE WITH WHERE YOU HIDE IT

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I had a VL that everyone though i didn't want. I put 3 switches in line along the fuel pump wiring. Even if they found one and switched it, there are still two more that might need a flick. The combinations start to get too complicated. Had one in the boot mounted upside down beside the rear speaker (sedan), the other two in the car, with one not too hard to find.FROG wrote:KILL SWITCH IMHO YOU CAN GET CREATIVE WITH WHERE YOU HIDE IT
I recon a switch between one of the sensors would be good. How would the car handle if you broke the connection for the crank angle sensor? The ECU shuts the engine off right? That would take them hours to find what the cause was. So long as they don't find the wires or switch:)
Gotta agree with Tex though, insure it and keep it simple, otherwise they just trash the thing after getting frustrated. If they do get it started with the usual mobilizer they will either leave it somewhere or right it off. Only when its not insured that you might really want to get into the security. Or if you have poured your heart and soul into it...
If it's an old carby model with a mechanical dizzy the old trick of taking the rotor button with you always works a treat.
Otherwise cunningly hidden ignition kill switch is great.
Speaking of steering locks, when I bought one of my RX-7's I was wondering why there was a massive bolt right through the floor pan directly under the steering wheel...I worked out it was for securing the 1" chain that I found lying in the boot. Yes they passed the chain through this massive bolt in the floor and up through the steering wheel and used a large padlock.
Reminds me of Mr Bean with his gate-latch on the Mini's drivers door!
Otherwise cunningly hidden ignition kill switch is great.
Speaking of steering locks, when I bought one of my RX-7's I was wondering why there was a massive bolt right through the floor pan directly under the steering wheel...I worked out it was for securing the 1" chain that I found lying in the boot. Yes they passed the chain through this massive bolt in the floor and up through the steering wheel and used a large padlock.
Reminds me of Mr Bean with his gate-latch on the Mini's drivers door!
EZ30 L series - Monsterwagon
https://www.ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=26163
https://www.ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=26163
- SUBYDAZZ
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I find locking the car has always worked for me.
Also, on my Liberty I know there's a 25mm or so diameter airpipe that goes from just after the AFM to somewhere below the throttle body (maybe PCV valve). With that removed the car will hardly run, may start just but then dies. I take it with me when I don't want people who have my keys borrowing the car. There'd probably be something similar on most late models. Very cheap and easy anti-theft.
Also, on my Liberty I know there's a 25mm or so diameter airpipe that goes from just after the AFM to somewhere below the throttle body (maybe PCV valve). With that removed the car will hardly run, may start just but then dies. I take it with me when I don't want people who have my keys borrowing the car. There'd probably be something similar on most late models. Very cheap and easy anti-theft.


SUBYDAZZ
- Gannon
- Senior Member
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Just had a crazy idea...
Wire in a 2 position switch that swaps the starter motor wire from the key barrel with the horn, so when a theft tries to start the car,.... THE HORN BLOWS!!! HAHAHAHAAAA
Wire in a 2 position switch that swaps the starter motor wire from the key barrel with the horn, so when a theft tries to start the car,.... THE HORN BLOWS!!! HAHAHAHAAAA
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
------------------------------------------
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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- subybrumby
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- El_Freddo
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Well, when it happened to me the first time (just after doing a standing launch in a muddy paddock) it scared the sh!t outta me cos i thought i'd broken the gearbox... til a mate put me straight on the neutral position (BIG sigh of relief).Cam wrote:4wd lever halfway between hi and lo range so no drive? wouldn't take a genius to work that one out, but i have my doubts about some of these ppl...
I think someone focused on getting the car outta there will not notice the 4wd lever but may notice the dash lights - could put a switch in that wire to turn those lights off..
Cheers
Bennie
tasers...in the drivers seats
....cousin did it in adelaide.....tested on a mate...fried him!!!! never talked to each other again so i dare say it will work 
dave


dave
no more subarus
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D3V1L wrote:tasers...in the drivers seats....cousin did it in adelaide.....tested on a mate...fried him!!!! never talked to each other again so i dare say it will work
dave
Nice lol
Or do the old electric door handles trick, Not sure how its done but it should work!
'91 Legacy GT wagon, 2.35 turbo, td05-20g, 05sti spec c dccd 6 speed, 3 inch, front mount, power fc
- steptoe
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On top of my alarm I had steering lock (lock facing down & away) and an auto tranny switch on the safety switch wire.
I've seen a weight lifting gut belt sitting on someones back seat !! get ya head pummelled if you even think of breaking in ?
leave it unlocked, leave console and glovebox open and on display
fit a flat tyre?
disconnect fuel gauge so it reads empty ?
leave ya fuel cap unlocked? and nothing on display
I've seen a weight lifting gut belt sitting on someones back seat !! get ya head pummelled if you even think of breaking in ?
leave it unlocked, leave console and glovebox open and on display
fit a flat tyre?
disconnect fuel gauge so it reads empty ?
leave ya fuel cap unlocked? and nothing on display