Castrol Magnetic or Magnetic Diesel

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 8:12 am

One of the mechanics from down the road from work swears that Castrol Magnetic Diesel is lot better than plain magnetic oil for boxer engines, he uses it in his Porsche and he tells me that I should use it... Are there any side effects if I used Magnetic Diesel on 270,000 kms Liberty - It always used Magnetic since new.
Any other comments?
Cheers
AP

madmat · Post by **madmat** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 8:45 am

i don't know all about oils but diesel oils generally have a higher detergent factor to control the soot. this may not be so good in a petrol engine???

Ben · Post by **Ben** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 9:10 am

Shell Semi-Synthetic, the stuff in the metallic blue bottle.

Cam · Post by **Cam** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 1:30 pm

There's something bout castrol i don't trust, probaly their dodgy gtx ads with intellegent molecules, too much bs i reckon. however if its been used since new and all is fine there's prob no reason to change.

diesel oil probaly isn't a good idea in a petrol engine because they've got different additives in them.

How olds the porsche? if its like 70's theres no real comparison.

Phizinza · Post by **Phizinza** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 2:26 pm

I stay away from Castrol now. Seen two engines totally clogged up because of GTX2. Well the only proof I have is the first time it happened it was on a car we only ran GTX2 in and it went form clean to completly screwed over tow services. And the other proof is a mechanic told us his seen the same over and over because of GTX and GTX2 after we told him about it.
I know, I could be mission out on a good thing. I just don't like supporting a company that has sold dodgy stuff, and still does. Even if they have so called good products.

Matatak · Post by **Matatak** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 6:31 pm

Generally Diesel oils are not good in a petrol engine.

thats all ill say coz i dont use castrol or shell or any brands liek that.

my baby gets 20W50 Fuchs GT Plus

Willie · Post by **Willie** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 8:09 pm

I changed to a diesel engine oil (because I got it free) in an old 1100 Mini years ago, with quite a few km's on it. As previously mentioned, these oils have a higher detergent concentration and as such it cleaned out all the galleries and such, and the motor in the Mini started blowing more smoke and became a bit more "rattlier". Changed back to normal oil after this was pointed out to me, but she was never the same after that.

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 8:12 pm

Interesting... Yeah I'll steer away as I am not confidence with it.. I'll stick to Petrol ones... I know Fuch's oils are very good quality.
Cheers
AP

Xtreme_RX · Post by **Xtreme_RX** » Tue Mar 11, 2008 9:01 pm

Each of the swag of Subaru's i look after run different brands & viscosity depending on engine condition / how there driven & used...

RX Turbo Wagon - Mobil Synth S 10W40 Semi-synthetic - Daily Driver (Mine) 165,XXX k,s on EA82T NO issues.

Leone Royal - Nulon 10W30 Hi-Tech Semi-synthetic - Daily Driver (Hers) 250,XXX Kms on EA82 MPFI With lifter Tic (Occasionally)

Liberty GX AWD - Shell Eco 10 - Daily Driver (Fathers car) 275,XXX Kms had 'issues' with lifter pump up - this oil has reduced the 'issues'

Subaru REX - Mobil Synth S 10W40 Semi Synthetic - Daily Driver (Mothers car)
1XX,XXX Kms on EN04 Supercharged MPFI.

Liberty GX AWD - Mobil Synth S 10W40 Semi Synthetic - Daily Driver (Sisters Car) 265,XXX Kms runs like a dream.....

I have heard bad things about Castrol engine oils, have seen 4 or 5 EA81's die/clog up from GTX oils....

Diesel oil is good for short runs in your motor ie 1000Kms or less then drop the oil & change oil, filter. Helps remove the varnish in the block...

& thats my 2c worth.....

rtcb65 · Post by **rtcb65** » Tue Mar 11, 2008 9:14 pm

Has anyone tried the HPR oils and what do you think of them.

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Tue Mar 11, 2008 9:17 pm

Xtreme_RX wrote: Diesel oil is good for short runs in your motor ie 1000Kms or less then drop the oil & change oil, filter. Helps remove the varnish in the block...

I agree, use it to give the engine a clean, but revert back to petrol oil when done.

For the record... I use Penrite HPR15 SemiSythetic

subanator · Post by **subanator** » Tue Mar 11, 2008 10:28 pm

Matatak wrote:Generally Diesel oils are not good in a petrol engine.

thats all ill say coz i dont use castrol or shell or any brands liek that.

my baby gets 20W50 Fuchs GT Plus

I agree with 20W50 Fuchs GT Plus.

mynance · Post by **mynance** » Tue Mar 11, 2008 11:25 pm

I find that ProSyn 730 in MY 07 XT is a good match, I used the Cruiser Oil in my 80 Series Cruiser and it was still running fresh at 455,000 klm, when I sold it.

http://www.synforce.com.au/synthetics.html

Point · Post by **Point** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 1:28 am

i've always used the penrite hpr oils. ventured away a couple of times only to regret it and go back to it.

Clearwater99 · Post by **Clearwater99** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 12:59 pm

well we could debate over oils .. i read a 6 page thing on it once . after they tested cabs in newyork .. basically it came down to

JUST CHANGE IT EVERY 5000 - 10000 k

then sit back and don't panic about your oil ..

oh btw i like

olive oil . it tastes nice in spaghetti !

discopotato03 · Post by **discopotato03** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 3:01 pm

The golden rule should be 5000 K's - period . Oil accumulates combustion products so no matter how good it is the only way to remove them is to remove the used oil .

High km engines have lots more blow by than low km ones so they contaminate their oil more readily .
Late type engines have very effective crank case ventilation systems and this hides the signs of blow by , the gunge still gets in the oil regardless .

If you really like your engine you'll use a good synthetic oil and still change it at 5000 religiously .

So what if you have to spend 50 odd dollars on 5 liters of oil . If the oil owes you $50 then that works out to ~ $5 - $4.16 per week over 2.5 to 3 months . If you bought run of the mill mineral oil at $30 you've saved $20 so $2 or $1.66 per week over 10 or 12 weeks . Trivial isn't it ?

I always insist on Ryco filters and I've lost count of the times I've walked away from places who can't/won't supply them .

My mentor does this with his new (rebuilt) engines .

First fill is Castrol GTX (pale grey bottle) because it is a mineral based oil with a minimum of friction modifiers . Start engine and all the usual fluid leak checks . Drive home or round the block enough to get it to running temperature . Change to another new oil filter and top the oil up .
Drive car from Sydney to Bathurst and back to bed in piston rings .
Change to Castrol R Synthetic 10W60/new filter and every 5000K change again . Note this is for Nissan RB sixes .

My plan is to run in on GTX and then switch to either Mobil 1 5W50 or similar in Castrol Edge . Proper synthetic oil is much less temperature sensitive than mineral oil - in other words it can survive higher temps before it breaks down . It also pumps more easily when cold so gets around the engine sooner after start up than most mineral oils .

If you can find the money for lift kits , EJ engine and box conversions etc you can find the money for good oil . Its as hard as slipping $2 a week into a tin and adding it to the mineral oil price . Shoot I've seen Mobil 1 25W50 as cheap as $36 for 5L .

If you really want to know about engine oils speak to people who work on motorbike engines , these spin a lot faster than car engines and are mostly in a higher state of tune than car engines .

Your call but I would avoid Penzoil and Motul like the plague , my No 1 choices would be Castrol Edge (used to be called Castrol R) and Mobil 1 .

Cheers A .

mynance · Post by **mynance** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 9:00 pm

discopotato03 wrote:
I always insist on Ryco filters and I've lost count of the times I've walked away from places who can't/won't supply them .

Cheers A .

I used to use Ryco filters in my Diesel Mazda
Mazda Filter 3 micron - $65 change 40,000 k
Ryco 6 micron - $12 change 15,000 k

Cost of not using Mazda filter $ 1,455.00 for rebuild of pump and injectors after only 6,000 k, have avoided them like the plague since

D3V1L · Post by **D3V1L** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 9:06 pm

all of my cars have had hpr 40 in them..never had an issue...ever

rex has had sin10 since the rebuild and have had no issues whatsoever...when i did the run in service on the new motor the oil came out clean as it went in...surprising but good.

madmat · Post by **madmat** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 7:04 am

"Drive car from Sydney to Bathurst and back to bed in piston rings . "

So Discopotato03 should the WA boys flat top there cars over here so they can do the drive from Sydney to Bathurst? i live in Sydney so i'm ok to do the Sydney to Bathurst drive but am concerned for the others who live further away.

Also is this the best drive for bedding in pistons or are there other options that will give a different result?:D
For example if i was bedding in Chrome rings should i drive from Sydney to Singleton instead?:-D

Like all of us i just want the best for my car.

discopotato03 · Post by **discopotato03** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 12:06 pm

For the viewers at home that don't live in Syd/NSW .

The Blue mountains is good for this because it loads the engine enough to get gas pressure high enough to hold the rings out against the bores - increased engine load at sane speeds/revs . Its a mixture of expressway / long climb / nice scenery and a good excuse to drive around Mt Panorama . Also in one of the main drags there is a good pie shop called The Bakery .

Never been to WA so don't know if there is a convenient mountain range drive .

The point is a wide range of engine speeds and loads .

A

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