VW To offroad buggy

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Kappage
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VW To offroad buggy

Post by Kappage » Mon Feb 23, 2009 12:14 pm

i thought it was time to make a new thread so i can show people how i am doing this.

So far i have a VW Super beetle with a 1600 in it and the running gear which is all fine :D

I am looking to raise it up an inch or two, I know how to do the front suspension because its like a normal car with the shockies and springs, but i am un aware of how i raise up the back of the car because it has a torsion bar at the back. Any ideas on how i can raise the back of the car?

here are some pics, i will post up more when i get home, so far i have stripped off the doors and fenders, then after that its time to get the grinder out and help it loose some more weight!

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And yes it is in a shed, this is when i first got it home on saturday!

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AndrewT
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Post by AndrewT » Mon Feb 23, 2009 1:09 pm

Awesome project, I've always loved these old beatles.
The rear torsion bar surely must bolt to the body? I'd say it's a case of making up some block spacers to put in between and use longer bolts.

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Kappage
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Post by Kappage » Mon Feb 23, 2009 6:55 pm

well since its got IRS i shouldnt get positive camber from raising it like daves!

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Kappage
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Post by Kappage » Mon Feb 23, 2009 10:10 pm

ok heres a quick update, managed to clean most of the carpet and crap out of the inside last fender is off got a spark plug out to buy a new set

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Anyone got an idea of how the front seats are in? they seem to be welded down! soon im getting the grinder, still gettin the crap out so it doesnt catch alight, also can anyone tell me what the little plastic bottle on the right of the engine is for? I am 99.99% sure its the lead replacement crap, but i dunno aye?

Also forgot to ask this aswell, anyone got any plough discs i can have? i need to weld up a few axle stands but my oldman gave them away about a year ago!

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whatcharterboat
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Post by whatcharterboat » Tue Feb 24, 2009 1:50 am

Any ideas on how i can raise the back of the car?
Dude. Very, very simple. Take off the end caps of the rear torsion bar. pull the swing arms out and rotate around on the spline. Don't overdo it though or your CVs will spit the dummy.
also can anyone tell me what the little plastic bottle on the right of the engine is for? I am 99.99% sure its the lead replacement crap, but i dunno aye?
I'm 99.9 % sure that's what it is too. In fact "Moreys Upper Cylinder Lubricant" to be precise.
anyone got any plough discs i can have? i need to weld up a few axle stands but my oldman gave them away about a year ago!
Yesterday 06:55 PM
I bought some 5 ton Axle stands from SuperCheap cause they go up really high and the base is alot bigger and if anyone ever got hurt I could sue someone else. Cheap at half the price.

Great project by the way. Tons of aftermarket bits available. You can even buy high lift front strut tubes for them. I did a lot of high performance work on one of those high motors in my Kombi many years back. Once you go down that track there is no turning back. Always trying to get more power and the things just end up too unreliable when modded so you throw so much money away.

Never again. If that's what you were thinking go a Subi motor from the start. VW are awesome things but don't waste your money on the old engine. Sherman Conversions is only one of the guys that will do you a conversion kit. If the motor is still running sweet just leave it as it is.

BTW One thing that kills them in hot weather is if the engine gasket is stuffed. It's the big foam ruber strip that seals the engine tinware to the engine bay tinware stopping the engine from re breathing hot expelled air back up into the cooling fan. And run straight 50w oil like the old Penrite HPR50M or something made just for big aircooled bikes like Harleys. If you have oil pressure and cool air they run fine.

If you aren't using the heater hoses coming out of the main fan housing cause the old exhaust heaters are rusted out, block 'em off with a couple of big Welsh Plugs too. Makes the fan pump harder.

Sorry I'm starting to blab on. All the best with it. John

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Kappage
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Post by Kappage » Tue Feb 24, 2009 8:18 am

John, youve been the biggest help by far, so far! But i am left with 1 last question, when you say 'dont over do it', how much am i able to rotate the swing arms?

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whatcharterboat
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Post by whatcharterboat » Tue Feb 24, 2009 8:31 am

Hi Well for starters , it's no good if the rear suspension tops out all the time. So that will be a good indicator. You'll see what I mean when you actually go to do it.

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Thumpage44
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Post by Thumpage44 » Tue Feb 24, 2009 6:20 pm

Hey mate, do you mind if i ask how much you paid for your beetle and what year/model it is?

Looks sweet as and really simple to work with! No wonder you see them converted to drag cars :D Well.. That and the rear engine + RWD factor.

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D3V1L
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Post by D3V1L » Tue Feb 24, 2009 6:38 pm

hey michael only adjust the swing arms by 2 or 3 splines..any more and it will be over done....u also have to remember once the body is off and frame is on, it will be lighter and sit higher as it is.... i can always pop round and show ya a thing or two with it all..and there definetly is a trick to doing the torsion bars..ahahah..otherwise youll frustrate the shit out of urself

dave
no more subarus


[/SIZE] [/color][/B][/color][/SIZE][/color]http://community.webshots.com/user/D3V1L9



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Kappage
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Post by Kappage » Tue Feb 24, 2009 8:59 pm

Yea just a quick update here

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It all sorta came off in one piece but it was welded to the floorpan so out came the grinder!!

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Kappage
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Post by Kappage » Tue Feb 24, 2009 9:50 pm

Thumpage44 wrote:Hey mate, do you mind if i ask how much you paid for your beetle and what year/model it is?
Well i paid $450 for it and its a 1972 Super beetle

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Kappage
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Post by Kappage » Tue Feb 24, 2009 10:05 pm

just thought id add these aswell since dave is explaining on how to raise it..

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Kappage
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Post by Kappage » Thu Feb 26, 2009 12:49 pm

I dont suppose anyone knows how to remove the immobiliser from this car? either can tell me how to do it or do it?

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gx_rex
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Post by gx_rex » Thu Feb 26, 2009 4:39 pm

Rewire it. Easy. Put a wire from the + on battery to the coil. Put a switch in between this as your on/off switch. run another wire from starter motor to start button to + battery. Done.

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Kappage
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Post by Kappage » Thu Feb 26, 2009 6:49 pm

umm this thing has a regulator on it, do i just bypass that or go from the regulator? Also id like to try and keep the key on there.

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gx_rex
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Post by gx_rex » Thu Feb 26, 2009 6:53 pm


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Kappage
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Post by Kappage » Thu Feb 26, 2009 9:55 pm

ah sweet, now ive got that i feel more confident!

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gx_rex
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Post by gx_rex » Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:04 pm

No probs. Have you heard the thing start? How does it run etc?

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Kieren
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Post by Kieren » Fri Feb 27, 2009 12:18 am

my uncle has one of these...

all he did was raise the ass end and fit big wheels on it for the sand.for the front end it just had bigger wheels.
he did and exhaust job for extra power too.

i aint read this too much, but does it run on leafs in the rear? if u make good spring hangers, that should do the job for the lift...
1989 L Series Wagon
3" lift, 27/8.5/R14 Muddies
EJ22

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Kappage
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Post by Kappage » Fri Feb 27, 2009 8:12 am

gx_rex wrote:No probs. Have you heard the thing start? How does it run etc?
Well it was running until my brother and i got liberal with a hammer, now that we removed the stereo it wont start anymore.. its that stupid immobiliser it goes physco when u turn the key!

Its got springs at the front and a torsion bar at the back

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