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Hey Guys how are ya?
I have been really busy over the last few months and haven’t really kept up on much.
So I thought id just post some status on my end and also put out a call for help.

I’m now on gearbox number 4 on my wrx and taking in fairly easy on the boost and misuse of the car :P but she is running smick with only a few small things in the working

Upgrading to T28 Ball baring Turbo
Fitting New Surge Tank / Brained Lines / Fule Pump
In the market for PNP ECU (scrap my old unichip)
In the market for FMIC ( scraping my APS top mount, is a great unit but I need room now for a higher mount on the turbo)

My poor old L Series is looking great but suffering greatly, its upsetting me now to look at it.

I have tried a few options and still cant seem to figure out its bizarre cooling problems.
I now have had a pulley fall off (bolts come lose?) and now after further inspection it appears that my pulleys are very old and were well over due for replacement!

CAN SOME ONE PLEASE HELP!!! I got heaps to offer for those who are willing :P
(and no that doesn’t mean sexual faviours!!)

Thanks
Brendan

I rekon it has to be the water pump, or possibly even just a faulty temp gauge.
If its the water pump I havn't done one on an EA82 before but I'll do my best to help!

Hi Brendan,
Could you be a bit more specific about the cooling problems? I am in beeliar, happy to drop round.
Aspro

:O i usto be in beeliar, now im near midland
The car has had its ups and downs, basically it was running fine. Then I left her for a wile and when I started using her again id notice shed get hot at high speeds 100km/h plus. I could start the car let her run for 1hr or more and shed idle fine and run dead cool. Get in drive off start getting upto speed and shed just nearly to red. If I revved the car up some times and held them up it could drop the temp… I have flushed the cooling and also tried a spare radiator that Andrew kindly lent me with no luck.. I also noticed that the belts are really bad, and come to think of it I think they were slipping heaps because the alternator didn’t seem to always keep up. But meh, I really don’t know enough about cooling on cars to start debugging properly.

Ive tried

-Flush Cooling
-New Radiator
-No Thermostat

Obviously now I need new pulleys and also have to look at the one that fell off and figure out what went on there 

Also look at what coolant you are using.

The condition of the hoses.

Is there preasure on the system?

Has it only been driven on those hot days we had lately? what about evening/night/cooler conditions?

All hoses are as new still very well kept. I have had them all off and on and don’t seem brittle. It appears to have ok flow? But I’m not really sure on that :/ as I said. I’m very limited in my knowledge of debugging cooling probs 

One thing tho, when I did rev the buggery out of it I could drop the temp some times. :/

-4MUFF- wrote:One thing tho, when I did rev the buggery out of it I could drop the temp some times. :/

That can be due to the increase in temp therefore increase the water flow through the system and can have a short term cooling effect.

hmm yeh, my bro said maybe the water pump is fucked or that the water pump pulley or belts and slipping.

i just need some professional assistance in the l series ways i think...

Jaffa wrote:

-4MUFF- wrote:One thing tho, when I did rev the buggery out of it I could drop the temp some times. :/

That can be due to the increase in temp therefore increase the water flow through the system and can have a short term cooling effect.

You lost me there Jaffa. Surely you mean an increase in RPM resulting in higher speed of the water pump thus higher flow. Hope you meant that anyway....


If you were still in Beeliar 4muff, I'd be happy to drop around. But Midland is a bit far...

*sigh* not looking good
new engine time i think :/ might have to hard basket it!
dont want to tho, the engine akes good power and has extreamly low k's on it!

I had a similar problem. It ended up being a head gasket problem.

For a temporary fix you can try chemiweld or a similar product.

Signs of a head gasket problem are;
Coolant loss.
water in oil.
small bubbles in the radiator with engine running.
losing pressure in the cooling system.

It would be better to fix the heads then replace a low km motor. It may just be a gasket set & refacing the heads.

Kev

no way! ..... too many people are just thowing up their hands and saying "new engine time".
Talk to a few radiator places and get their opinions. I think they are likely to confirm its the water pump. Get a couple of quotes, ask them how long it usually takes. I'm sure with one or two of us WA crew getting stuck into it we could knock it out fairly quick.

Yeah I agree AndrewT, a little time spent at the radiator place with the CO tester will confirm whether gasses are present in the coolant.
Last year with my wifes car it proved ok from the CO test and was just excess sealant from a previous job to the timing cover blocking half radiator cores, tanks were removed and cores rodded clear. Saved a bit of heartache that day!

On the other hand...lets just buy a front cut and get cracking on a conversion!!

It the bottom hose so soft its sucking in & cutting the water flow off at high rpm ?

have seen this

I have done testing with coolents , The best was the Toyota long life its expencive but we found it to be the best .

I have a lazer test gun if you need to check the temps .

seagull

The hoses don’t look like they are under too much stress, tho the 3" lift doesn’t help the matter. but it wouldn’t be that I’m fairly sure. As for losing coolant etc I have no real head gasket problems that I can see. She’s hold coolant fine and has nothing in the oil..
I hope it is just the water pump and pulleys. I just want my car up and running again 