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yeh uh help on this cv boot
Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 12:06 am
by Subafury
im guessing it would be easier and quicker if someone showed me how to change this boot.
can anyone experienced help saturday?
Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 2:04 am
by KERAZY
get a cone.
just your basic cone.
what are you stumped on dude?
Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 6:32 pm
by vidler
never changed a boot... thinking they are a bitch to do without dismantling the shaft though
Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 6:38 pm
by D3V1L
have to dismantle the joint..not hard.but need a surclip remover for the end gear...other then that its easy sailing
Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 7:37 pm
by KERAZY
dismantle the joint? on my MY it's only a matter of getting the end shaft out of the hubs and gaining access to it. after that you use a hollow conical device and some extra grease to slowly but surely slide the boot to the end without it slipping off. then get the cone, put it to the joint and push over the boot.
or is that ONLY for the my?
Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 7:53 pm
by Subafury
the subaru manual said to take like the whole hub n rotor etc off and take the whole shaft out. but surely i can take the shaft out from one of the ends sorta like the rear diff? ill call someone when i get stuck tomorrow anyway
Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 8:35 pm
by vidler
to remove the front shaft, requires removing castle nut, jacking up, removing wheel, unbolting strut from hub, remove inner role pin, jumping on hub till base of strut comes out. tapping out shaft from hub and removing... thats bits not hard.
Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 9:00 pm
by Subafury
**** i dont have no 36mm socket to get the castle nut off the hub. and i dont think a big crescent will work... dont have circlip remover either...hmmm crap maybe ill just wait longer for someone with the right tools to help...
oh and as of yesterday i hate putting struts back into the knuckle
Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 9:34 pm
by tim_81coupe
With the welded diff you're going to get used to these Matt, so I suggest you dive right in!
My personal preference is to swap out entire shafts in the vehicle, I have several (well many now) spare entire shafts that I keep as spares. When a joint dies in the car, I swap one of these in to keep the car on the road for the maximum amount of time possible. I then rebuild the old shafts at my own pace.
This applies to front and rear btw. Much quicker to swap an entire shaft than it is to put a boot on one in the vehicle.
Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 9:50 pm
by Subafury
well anyone got a spare front cv then to make my job easier?(as in i want to fix this before the powerlines on sun) pls?
Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 12:54 am
by AndrewT
I have a spare 100% complete front shaft.
Reconditioned outer CV with brand newboot.
Reconditioned inner CV.
Brand new castle nut.
It's the one I keep as a spare in my boot...I guess you can borrow it for the trip if you want.
It has the larger spline type of inner CV on it... suits EFI or Turbo L series gearboxes (which I guess you have, unless they left the original Carby gearbox in your car?).
I also have a 3/4" breaker bar with 36mm socket on it.
Unfortunately no time at all to help...I'll be home sometime tomorrow arvo to do a little work on my wagon so you could pick them up then if you need to.
Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 12:26 pm
by SuBaRiNo
ewww... don't change the entire shaft you sycos.... I usually take the pin out of the inner joint... pop the knuckle off the strut.... and disassemble and re-assemble the CV under the car.
Have u got a cv boot. I will require someone send me an SMS when u go to Vidlers this afternoon.
Dave
Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 12:51 pm
by Subafury
no worries. already msged u
will be sorted this arvo.
Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 5:41 pm
by Subafury
thanks to subarino who is a gun at changing boots in record time. i would of been sooo stuck without ur help. now i know for next time too (- dont bother taking the whole shaftoff just disconnect at gearbox.)