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i would be careful with your "nothing must draw very much power" assumption. Those fusible links are a fuse. They are not an indication of how much current the loads connected to them are pulling.

safest bet is to measure the actual current drawn and spec cable / fuses accordingly, or copy the factory setup.

There are also a few improvements that can / should be done :

- Reroute the main headlights through a relay mounted in engine bay ( near the fusible links, or close as you can to the front ) to stop the ignition switch from overheating ...

- Same with the starter motor - put a relay near or just above the starter to improve start-ups ... ( there are diagrams on here for them )

- Add : Electronic Points Breaker - for improved performance & reliability ... ( bonus of not having to fit new points all the time )

- Add : Also would be a good time while your at it to add some form of electronic security system / dead switch, door locking mechanisms / power windows etc. Its not to hard to do any of these, just make sure to follow installation instructions ...

P.S. - these additional items don't have to done at the same time, can be added dividually later. Just make allowances for them when in the planning stages.

Just to be sure to measure the current drawn through your system to get the right gauge of wire. ( if you adding new wire ) You can re-use the old wiring, just make sure it isn't corroded or the covering is failing.

Finally make sure to re-wrap everything when done, will help to keep it in good shape with additional heat shrink & spiral cable wrap ...

Cheers, Bantum ...

sven '2' wrote:Crazy I know, but have you contacted Subaru??

Never know, NOS floating about a very dusty shelf somewhere?!

I am discouraged from walking in and asking for parts for my old car from Subaru. Last time I did I had the usual discussion of "So is it a Brumby or an L series???" And eventually worked out their books don't go back far enough despite parents having actually bought the car from there Well that was that dealership anyway, maybe some others are more helpful. I have to start desperately looking for a genuine firewall rubber grommet though (big one for the main loom) as mine is perished.

vincentvega wrote:i would be careful with your "nothing must draw very much power" assumption. Those fusible links are a fuse. They are not an indication of how much current the loads connected to them are pulling.

safest bet is to measure the actual current drawn and spec cable / fuses accordingly, or copy the factory setup.

I agree, just read in the FSM that if the fusible link wire gets very hot in less than 10 seconds, there is approximately 150A of current draw through the wire So I will copy the wire gauge that is already there where possible. I will probably go one bigger if I plan to add accessories into a particular circuit. Here's a question, would it be possible/good idea to replace the fusible links with circuit breakers?

Bantum wrote:There are also a few improvements that can / should be done :

- Reroute the main headlights through a relay mounted in engine bay ( near the fusible links, or close as you can to the front ) to stop the ignition switch from overheating ...

- Same with the starter motor - put a relay near or just above the starter to improve start-ups ... ( there are diagrams on here for them )

Just to be sure to measure the current drawn through your system to get the right gauge of wire. ( if you adding new wire ) You can re-use the old wiring, just make sure it isn't corroded or the covering is failing.

Finally make sure to re-wrap everything when done, will help to keep it in good shape with additional heat shrink & spiral cable wrap ...

Cheers, Bantum ...

Thanks, the headlight relays are a given The factory wiring has a big thick wire going straight from the battery + to the starter, is there much improvement to this?

Thanks for the help and encouragement so far guys, I'm getting my brain into auto electrician mode lately (:rolleyes:) and the more I pour over the FSM wiring diagrams the more I think I may actually be able to pull this off I'm liking the big peg board idea and I think a test probe/scope is on the list of tools to get. I will have to make sure every single individual circuit works before I take the loom off the peg board. And I'm thinking even if I spend $500 on tools and materials I'm still way in front compared to if I got a sparkie to do this for me plus I'll have the tools for life.

And today I answered my own question about the instrument dimmer switch; every light bulb controlled by that potentiometer is simply spliced into the pots signal wire which runs from the instrument cluster to the glove box.

Silverbullet wrote:I am discouraged from walking in and asking for parts for my old car from Subaru. Last time I did I had the usual discussion of "So is it a Brumby or an L series???" And eventually worked out their books don't go back far enough despite parents having actually bought the car from there Well that was that dealership anyway, maybe some others are more helpful. I have to start desperately looking for a genuine firewall rubber grommet though (big one for the main loom) as mine is perished.

Try, 'libfixer' on RSLC - a SA version of FROG - a top bloke too

Silverbullet wrote: ... Would it be possible / good idea to replace the fusible links with circuit breakers ?

Most certainly is, just have to find them ...

Silverbullet wrote: ... Re starter cable, is there much improvement to this ?

Sorry I'm not talking about the starter cable, rather the solenoid that engages it from the ignition ...
See here for more info :Adding a starter relay

Keep asking questions & you'll get there ...

P.S. - I've added a few more bits to the list of things to do ...

Cheers, Bantum ...

Supply FROG your VIN and he can look up what it had and see what's available, even if it's ex Japan if you want to wait...

Or find a VIN from a touring wagon that had the 6 gauge cluster and supply that to FROG. Differences in the wiring would be the fuel circuit runs all the time AFAIK.

Also, PM sent, sorry for the late reply!

Cheers

Bennie