More Grief L Series major electrics

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Sat Aug 29, 2009 3:58 pm

cut and paste thanks to disco, to see differences a little easier I have used LOWER CASE. There is no guarantee that just because these fuse plates came from car date noted that they are original either! Colours matched though. I do not understand what HEATER fuse is for ,carby choke heater? Position is another, pre GPS for everyday man, and someone there learned how to spell height after the first go high. My Japanese is crap, so I can't talk


1985 L Series same as 1986 make date

"DON'T USE EXCEPT SPECIFIED FUSE"

BATT.........................arrow................ ......... LOAD

R-DEF........................CHARGE................. ..... HEATER
R-DEF.................BACK TURN 4WD AT............. HEATER
BLANK...................IG COIL FUEL.................... STOP ROOM
(DR LOCK)..............METER ENGINE................. TAIL LICENSE ILLUM
(HEIGHT).....................RADIO................ ....... BLANK
SPARE.........................CIGAR............... ........ HAZARD CLOCK HORN and >>> 4WD auto selection button circuit
SPARE..........................FAN................ ......... HEAD LH
BLANK.......................WIPER WASHER............. HEAD RH R-FOG

11/87 make date Touring Wagon L Series

"DON'T USE EXCEPT SPECIFIED FUSE"

BATT.........................arrow................ ......... LOAD

position....................CHARGE................. ..... HEATER
R-DEF.................BACK TURN 4WD AT............. HEATER
BLANK...................IG COIL FUEL.................... STOP ROOM
(DR LOCK)..............METER ENGINE................. hazard clock horn
(hight ).....................RADIO................ ....... BLANK
option.........................CIGAR/ mirror....... ........ tail licence illumi
SPARE..........................FAN................ ......... HEAD LH
BLANK.......................WIPER WASHER............. HEAD RH R-FOG

1990 model wagon carby

"DON'T USE EXCEPT SPECIFIED FUSE"

BATT.........................arrow................ ......... LOAD

R-DEF........................CHARGE................. ..... HEATER
R-DEF.................BACK TURN 4WD AT............. HEATER
BLANK...................IG COIL FUEL.................... STOP ROOM
(DR LOCK)..............METER ENGINE................. position
(HEIGHT).....................RADIO................ ....... hazard clock horn
SPARE.........................CIGAR............... ........ tail licence illumi
SPARE..........................FAN................ ......... HEAD LH
BLANK.......................WIPER WASHER............. HEAD RH R-FOG

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Sat Aug 29, 2009 4:07 pm

Looking at my new collection of fuse panel covers, looks like it is in hard circuit, TURN fuse 10 is indicators, Hazards fuse 6, use same flasher can according to diagrams and people. NOT found it yet!!

Some questions answered. Pull FAN fuse 15 and internal fan stops, pull HEATER fuse 1 and fan still works with fuse 15 back in , pull second HEATER fuse fan stops.

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Sun Aug 30, 2009 11:57 pm

and have found a diagram mainly relating to all the automatic selection of 4WD governed by braking, kickdown or wipers detected electrically when dash switch on. It shows Oz only Fuse#6 with the only wire from the back of fuse box is listed correctly as red/white trace. It has further junctions not associated with this circuit ending in ~ symbols. If the short is beyond these ~ symbols I do not know but it looks as if I can just leave fuse #6 out and cut wire at back to prevent further grief until I work out what else important things run off fuse #6

Found BACK CANCEL RELAY on a bracket that shares same screws as bonnet release pull, identified by wires.

AUTO 4WD RELAY above glovebox with green plug, ID by wires and plug colour,

4WD CHECKER UNIT sits between radio hole and steer column screwed to the back of plastic front dash just near odd vent slots, is black plastic box with its name on him. Only just found it by looking hard at the last moment, got too COLD to remove plug. Gave up for the day and went home

The AUTO 4WD SWITCH in dash next to lights been disconnected, making no diff to find shorting fuse 6.

Could mean that with horns disconnected and if not in this circuit must be hazards circuit but not looked to see if hazard circuit is disconnected when I disconnect the combo indicator switch plugs. NOTE TO SELF. Sort of clever, got indicators only work blink unit with IGN or ACC? but hazards work same blink unit in any key state.

Hazard connector, look at it dude.

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dukbilt
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Post by dukbilt » Mon Aug 31, 2009 8:44 am

Any chance of getting the diagram?

The hazard lights work regardless of ignition switch position, allowing the hazard lights to stay on with no key in the ignition so that other people can see your stranded piece of #$%! while you head off to the pub to drown your sorrows while waiting for the tow truck! Hopefully the barman's daughter is absolutely stunning, single, with a great personality, and has just finished her course on automotive electrics (specialising in your particular model...)!

Dreaming......

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Mon Aug 31, 2009 10:40 am

working on the diagram..... I understand why two circuits, just seen it done with flash unit for each circuit. Dream babe from school married the publican, now one of his ex's and worth quite a lot. Embarrasing thing is last time we talked I did not recognise her but knew her from somewhere ?? STILL HOT !!

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Tue Sep 01, 2009 6:53 pm

FRUSTRATED UPDATE:
Although I have the correct factry manuals for my car the electrical diagrams of immense and immaculate detail do not correspond with all on my car and subaru parts manual.

The blinker assembly that also has horn and hazards within ALSO HOUSES A BLINK CIRCUIT of some sort. There is no blink relay, flasher can anywhere else in this car - I've pulled it to bits looking for where it might be, where it is according to parts manual, followed the wiring - there is no flasher can. Aside from the detailed wiring diagrams not having a flasher unit in them, the flow charts for no turn lights ends up saying renew turn/hazard assembly!! After pulling the big plug off the four big plugs forward of the fuse panel - the main frame - isolated it down to one wire which was the hazard lights batery connection to the turn switch assy. It has a green wire gong off to power something else factory that does not easily show on diagrams. I cut the green wire and isolated the short in fuse 6 to beyond it. I have power to hazard switch but no hazards or turn due to everything disconnected BUT the hazards just buzz no lights. I may have spare switch to try.

Went chasing fuse 12 - diagrams all say it powers dash instrument. Don't care about them anymore. Gonna screw it all back together and CRUSH it. You'll be the second L Series I send to CHINA this year CHEAP GRIEF ....................

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Captain Obvious
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Post by Captain Obvious » Tue Sep 01, 2009 8:41 pm

hmmmmm i had a problem with my RX, the right indicator stopped working and the flasher unit on the steering column had a wire or metal terminal the glowed red hot when i tried to use it, it also from memory had buzzing noise as well. now as a temp fix before a trip away i ran a new wire to each right indicator lamp and it worked fine, i never changed it when i got home and sold the car like it.

maybe this helps some how
[SIGPIC]http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/image.php ... 1468060434[/SIGPIC]



The 4x4: 2004 Nissan Navara d22 ZD30 dual cab.
The Wifes car: 2005 SG9 Facelift forester 2.5l auto XS

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Tue Sep 01, 2009 9:37 pm

thanks, been thinking I need to rewire some stuff if it is to go again and be driveable. The switch will take some playing with to get it understood and working. You were lucky, you had an external flasher unit on the stering column - I don't! Found my spare indicator unit and it is the same wiring etc , so to try it....

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Captain Obvious
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Post by Captain Obvious » Wed Sep 02, 2009 5:49 am

no it was all apart of the the stalks and head lights, i tried changing it to a new one but it still did the same over heaty thing so thats when i guessed there was a short and rewired the light.

bryan
[SIGPIC]http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/image.php ... 1468060434[/SIGPIC]



The 4x4: 2004 Nissan Navara d22 ZD30 dual cab.
The Wifes car: 2005 SG9 Facelift forester 2.5l auto XS

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Wed Sep 02, 2009 11:27 am

Oh, all right, I am not alone!! Just real out the wires to where they need to go? I am gonna make up nine bridging links to connect the connectors one wire at a time and look for something suss. if the new to the car switch not do the job.

When this spike/surge occured I used the brakes, indicators and hazards and opened the door explaining which circuits went futt. Unfortunately the igntion was also ON !


Thinking a DIODE in the wiring may have shot too so causing the short, they are those sexy blue rubbery looking things found under dash, seen a few in the diagram and there is a little rack of five diodes attached to the bottom of the fuse box.

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discopotato03
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Post by discopotato03 » Wed Sep 02, 2009 3:08 pm

As per PM , yes starts with that fuse removed and no B/R wire goes nowhere .

Cheers A .

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Thu Sep 03, 2009 11:20 am

and that rack of five little diodes had something to do with wipers, brakes and kickdown conns for the automatic 4WD selection. Should not pose a problem as other bits in chain disconnected but they are no longer needed, so further weight reduction will occur. They will only be found on cars with the 4WD AT and probly only the turbo versions. Disco, thanks for the task and the PM and posting in here for archival needs

Jonno


Looking over all the diagrams I have it looks to be a simple fix will be to run a new wire from the back of FUSE 12 METER ENGINE (& 4WD AUTO SWITCH) to the correct power supply to the combination meter (dash gauges) as the short still exists with dash out, and all other stuff I can find on any diagrams that should run off FUSE 12. FOUND MORE: such as the solenoids on the carby - on carby versions through the engine connect plug


Discos post #31 above refers to a Black/Red wire coming out of the indicator switch loom, is known as i23 and connects to a Yellow/Red wire in digital dash versions

Gees , I miss driving this baby

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Thu Sep 10, 2009 1:38 pm

OK.

The wires have been snipped, fuses don't blow, checked all relays, lights for shorts, got the wire from rear of fuse panel 12 to white round plug at back of tacho and put it all together, replaced the alternator for safety sake. Cranked her over and SHE RUNS ! Ye Ha :) :). I have temp gauge and tacho, no fuel gauge or any red dash warnng lights. A new IGN power wire to the red warning lights panel IGN wire may fix that. Got no door ajar, handbrake on, warning lights in midle panel either - may just need power. The spare indicator hazard switch assy does the same so gotta isolate that issue and install new wires where need be to fix that with some luck.

:) :) WOO HOO !! :) :)

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Thu Sep 10, 2009 11:35 pm

Also found that to disconnect the blinker hazard hi beam combo switch connector plug kills headlights , even though headlight switch is on the dash, fuji logic!. Great relief is that the ignition module and coil are fine. Coil is new and where'd ya get another 3 plug ignition module?

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Sun Sep 13, 2009 10:18 pm

~ engine started again today :)

~ i have got dash switch and gauge lights, glovebox, ash tray and cig lighter

~ found that to disconnect the turn/hazard/horn loom plug and feed 12V + down to the turn lights only front guard lights worked (bumpers may still be disconnected) found water in a connector last week! The rear turns not lighting up but are connected and work on test of unit, so it will be rerun new cable from switch plug direct to rear lights, make sure bumpers turn lights work and hope the blink unit stops buzzing and blinks instead. The switch plug has two wires per output on the turn lights wire port, one goes to front, the other to the rear and it was a guess each time as to which one was the one to the rear to cut. Each bloody time I got it wrong and bit the front supply, right then left ! so those two wires got patched up :)

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phillatdarwin
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Post by phillatdarwin » Mon Sep 14, 2009 12:27 am

it sounds like u do not have earth wire on there .

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Mon Sep 14, 2009 7:23 pm

sounds like I don't have the earth wire where? the blinker loom? I will double check its wiring, just had a few issues to deal with and looked at all about same time b4 tackling them. If you mean no earth at the rears - the tail and brake share the earth there and they work.....

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discopotato03
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Post by discopotato03 » Tue Sep 15, 2009 12:35 am

Steptoe a friend of mine spent the greater part of last weekend under/inside the dash of his 89 Brumby trying to sort blinker ills .
Once he established that they were earth switched he managed to trace the wires to a three way join - and one broken off wire . It helped having the loom from his old 84 MY wagon to open up because his Gregory's WSM was pretty useless .

Guess who was at the wreckers Sunday afternoon pulling the engine and dash loom out of the car that donated its tacho binnacle for the Brumby ?
Ahh , spares good to have .

Something else that cars owner discovered was that L Series relays plug into commonly available rectangular loom connectors so must help myself next time I'm out there .

I did manage to bag a 90 or 92 L blower fan motor for my car because it has either serious electrical ills - or a stick stuck in the fan blades .
I also stripped the battery connections off I think a Maxima because they use real heavy cable to the starter motor but the bonus is the plug connectors x 2(that plug in at the battery pole clamp) that means you can disconnect the battery supply without tools . Handy .

Best of luck with yours , cheers A .

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Tue Sep 15, 2009 9:33 am

After seeing the detail of Subie diagrams, the non gen diagrams are just mudmaps at times.Brumbies are earth switched on indiators? I got some really odd symptoms last night sorting my quad light BWumby B4 fitting new halogen inners, I blew one headlight fuse on the side I had disconnected the earthing inner light H4 as it was not insulated from light body as the LHS was and got earth from all three outer h/l connector.

What? the L series gauge pod (you call binacle) fits into Brumby/MY ? I have seen someone jam in an Imprez(t)a. I have butchered an L for its tacho and an MY trying to graft it in......mess

Work cont on Grief today.

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discopotato03
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Post by discopotato03 » Tue Sep 15, 2009 10:04 am

Nooo , some MY sedans had the tacho dash with is a different shape as is the complete upper car width "trim" . I think the headlight and wiper switch gear is different and had to be changed .
I remember him crowing about having intermittent wipers - the wonders of modern technology LOL .

He did join here the other day in frustration trying to find online MY/Brumby - what are they MV or MA factory WSM wiring diagrams .

He also mentioned that L's have a combination flasher/hazard box somewhere in the column gear ? I must now rat up an early one (just in case) because Ellie being an 86 (series 1 L) is probably different in that area to 87+ .
I missed out on a mint column in an early FWD auto L sedan a while back , it had no play (mine does) and mickey mouse stalk etc .

Since Ellie looks like getting a Vipec or Link G4 Storm computer I'm gonna have to get under that dash and start sorting computer power supplies and fuel pump relay wiring . I'd like to actually make up a loom and leave the existing ECU wiring in place so that I don't have a car that won't run if the new computer doesn't play ball initially .
Also it means it can be removed later when no one wants to pay me a tenth of what this car owes me .

I hate wiring but I'm lucky to know people who are good at it .

A .

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