Brumby running on

AuBrumby · Post by **AuBrumby** » Tue Jul 20, 2010 8:47 pm

Hi everyone This is my first post. I have a 88 brumby with a ea81 engine running a weber. My problem is that it runs on does anyone have any suggestions? The carb is a remanufactured 32/36 to suit the ea81 engine with a manual choke with a redline manifold. The engine also pings slightly on light acceleration and has a stumble intermittantly when making a sharp u turn. Any help ??

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Tue Jul 20, 2010 10:58 pm

Hi AuBrumby and welcome to AUSubaru

I would say that your timing is too advanced and maybe your carby is also not setup 100% correctly. I would find a local carby specialist that can tune it to the correct Air/Fuel ratios and they sould be able to set the ignition timing for you as well.

spike · Post by **spike** » Tue Jul 20, 2010 11:06 pm

RSR 555 wrote:local carby specialist.

i was talking to somone the other week (read year??) didnt know who i was and when i said i had a slight problem with the car (datsun back then) he sugested taking it to dad buisness cause they do good stuff??
said they wearnt specialist but they know what theyre doing, really confused me lol

basically its hard to find a carby place isnt it??
if you can live without the car id say pull the carby off and post it to the best, unsure right now of who would be the best.

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Tue Jul 20, 2010 11:27 pm

http://brisbane.yalwa.com.au/ID_1020154 ... rvice.html

uCb · Post by **uCb** » Wed Jul 21, 2010 8:15 am

what ever you do don't take it to west side carby in queens park w.a there's one in o'connor myaree don't know there name / or do what l did get one of motor that you know works

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Wed Jul 21, 2010 9:37 am

Ipswich is a long WAy from Queens Park, I say it is best to see carb on car and diagnose correctly.

T'subaru · Post by **T'subaru** » Wed Jul 21, 2010 10:37 am

http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/

trouble shooting, tech info, tuning aids and manuals and exploded views, hope this helps.
Cheers, mark

AuBrumby · Post by **AuBrumby** » Tue Jul 27, 2010 8:28 pm

Thanks everyone a carby shop was the most obvious answer to these problems but i was hoping to take a DIY approach to try and fix my problem any ideas?

Post by **TOONGA** » Tue Jul 27, 2010 8:35 pm

what is your timing set at?

is your dizzy points or electronic?

what fuel are you using? (ron level)

was the float level set before the carby was put on the car?

have you checked that there are no manifold / vacuum leaks?

does the carby have an idle solenoid valve?

is the vacuum advance on the dizzy working properly ? (is the vacuum hose in the right spot on the carby)

just a few things to check before you pull the carby apart

TOONGA

AuBrumby · Post by **AuBrumby** » Tue Jul 27, 2010 9:08 pm

The timing is set at 8 deg was set to 10 deg although going back to 8 has not changed anything
Using an electronic dizzy with normal unleaded fuel
I am trusting that the float level is right as the carby is a new weber 32/36 with manual choke, apparently jetted to suit the EA81 engine and it doesn't have a idle solenoid.
Does it need an idle solenoid?
There are no vacuum leaks have checked with carby clean
The vacuum advance is definetley working

Post by **TOONGA** » Tue Jul 27, 2010 10:51 pm

if the carby doesn't have an Idle solenoid then it doesn't need one do you have a return line to the fuel tank and if yes is it connected?

my reasoning is if it isn't connected the extra fuel pressure could be pushing fuel past the needle and seat when the engine is shut down causing dieseling until the pressure is relieved

most webers only need around 3- 4 pounds of pressure for fuel delivery any more and it bleeds past the needle and seat

TOONGA

AuBrumby · Post by **AuBrumby** » Wed Jul 28, 2010 10:55 pm

The return line to the fuel filter/tank is blocked off close to the filter as there was no where on the weber for its connection. I am going to measure the fuel presure and see what it is as it has a non genuine replacement pump on it.
Does anyone know what the right size jets are for the weber on a EA81 ?

Post by **TOONGA** » Thu Jul 29, 2010 10:13 am

try connecting the return line up via a T piece on the fuel line just before the carby before pulling you carby to bits. (as the after market pumps are about 6 pounds)

and the advice I got for the weber was Primary Idle jet 52; Secondary idle jet 60: main jet 140 & secondary jet 160 (or 135 & 180)

Im running Primary Idle jet 60 (the 52 didn't fit); Secondary idle jet 60: main jet135 & secondary jet 150

TOONGA

AuBrumby · Post by **AuBrumby** » Fri Jul 30, 2010 11:14 pm

Thanks Toonga i will try all that on the weekend and let you know how it goes will 10 degrees of advance be ok on normal pump unleaded could i push it to 12?
Now that all the plolution gear has been disconnected and the air valve on the exhaust is blocked off would there be any advantage in getting rid of the engine pipe and air valve and having a larger engine pipe made that bolts straight to the head. I already have a larger exhaust looks like 2 & a quarter (was on the car when i bought it) that starts at the original engine pipe collector with a hotdog and a straight through mufler, will i gain anything or would it just be a waste of time and money?
Has anyone ever tried iridium or platinum plugs in a EA81 did you gain anything??

Post by **TOONGA** » Sat Jul 31, 2010 9:25 am

ok if you have gotten rid of 90% of the air pollution gear getting rid of the last bit is not going to hurt the engine, in fact you may find it will run even better (it could have more crankcase emissions aka blow by) a new set of headers will cost a bomb and will give you a small increase in power it would be easier to block the air valve but leave the pipe which goes back into the head (less chance of ping)

I would change your timing to 8 degrees now as you will probably find your vacuum advance is quite a bit more sensitive as the weber is a bigger carby and has a bigger cfm. yes 10 degrees is factory standard but now you don't have factory standard emission controls which suck the power out of the engine by law.

if you have time start at 6 degrees and work your way up until you find a point where you have good power etc but no ping

it has taken me quite a while to get my engine to a good compromise and finally iridium plugs work well I have a set in my engine

hope this helps

TOONGA

Post by **TOONGA** » Tue Aug 03, 2010 6:20 pm

any progress with your carby, if you have the 32/36 weber there is an idle solenoid available via ebay in the US for 17.95 but he wants 20 dollars US for postage

TOONGA