Brumby dash removal

David D · Post by **David D** » Wed Dec 22, 2010 5:02 pm

Hi Everyone

I'm new to this forum and I'm busy trying to get my '87 Brumby on the road. I want to remove the dash to do some welding but I'm having a bit of trouble.
I know dash removal has been covered in some previous threads but I couldn't find an answer to this:
It's the instrument panel that's giving me grief. I disconnected the choke cable from the carb because I couldn't get the instrument surround off but it's still stuck. There's a 'box' of some sort behind where the choke control is which is stopping me pulling the cable through. Do I need to pull the actual choke cable through the outer sheath? Or is there something else I need to do?
While I'm asking, is there anything else tricky I need to know about before I get stuck again!?

Thanks

David

David D · Post by **David D** » Thu Dec 23, 2010 1:10 pm

Right,

I've got past the choke cable issue - I looked at it this morning with fresh eyes and realised I could take the knob off the end.
So the instrument panel is out, 3 bolts at the top are out, 1 nut either side and 1 beside the steering column are out and heater ducts are disconnected. I was hoping the dash would come out now but it's still not free. I reckon it's stuck somewhere behing the heater controls but I can't figure out where.
Is there much to disconnect in this area? Will I need to remove the heater control panel?
Sorry if these are stupid questions but I'm finding the Gregory's manual a bit vague.
Any help appreciated.

Thanks

David

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Dec 23, 2010 1:28 pm

That panel with heater and fan controls can stay in place just juggle it to the inside of the hole and the only cable to disconnect is the lever up down fresh air vent cable with a straight blade screwdriver under the clip on the outer cable.

I have a write up somewhere I should stick up in here when I have the inclination and time.

Found notes to say remove spare to undo steer knuckle splines under bonnet to remove column

those side pockets in dash next to vent , screw above them as well for something...

undo all the bendy loom retainers, 8 of them ?

slip the fuse panel out of its spot and above it will be more secure screws

note black earth wire that needs to go back at the rhs nut on bracket at side

David D · Post by **David D** » Fri Dec 24, 2010 6:42 pm

Cheers for that mate

Once I got that heater control panel thru the gap it was only a couple of clips holding the wiring loom in.

All out now but what a job that was! Not looking forward to puttin it back in!

Thanks

David

David D · Post by **David D** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 10:09 pm

Hi everyone

I'm actually putting the dash back in now but I didn't wanna start a whole new thread.
Anyway, I have a few queries I wouldn't mind sorting out before I go too far:

1. Does anyone know if the main wiring loom sits above the steering column or below it? I've got it above at the moment but I can't remember if this is where it was. (I know - I should have taken notes, pics etc!)

2. Dash warning lights - what should stay on? and when should they come on? and go off? I'm not sure what's 'normal' if that makes sense and I'm not sure why I have one 'stop lamp' light on the dash when they are both working.

3. Cigar lighter - this blows fuses and I'm not sure why. It's pretty rusty inside but I don't know if this is the issue or not. Any ideas how to trace the problem?

4. Analog clock is not working, do I need to take the instrument panel apart to look at this?

Sorry for all the questions but I'm keen to get this right now rather than have to take it all apart later on. Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks

David

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Wed Jul 06, 2011 8:39 am

1. Recall it sits above the steering column as my add on electrics stand out like dogs balls below the column
2. Turn ign on but not start with doors open and handbrake on, should have ign light for alt, oil pressure light, doors open lights and brake light warning.
SELECT NEUTRAL and start engine, oil pressure light and alt light should go out, shut doors one at a time to check and they should also go out. Foot on foot brake coz next step you gonna try release handbrake to see it goes out. If not the low brake fluid level in BMC also triggers this light I think. Check switch below H brake for correct contact and function
3 Remove cig lighter and insulate its power wire, see if still blows.

4. Clock and cig lighter same fuse? Sory but panel needs to come out if that fuse does not fix it

David D · Post by **David D** » Wed Jul 06, 2011 7:43 pm

Thanks for that, Steptoe. I was just having a last minute panic about the position of the loom.

The dash lights seem to be OK - am I right in thinking there is only one Stop Lamp light and it comes on when there is a stop lamp not working?

The cigar lighter is fine now I have put the panel in place, I think it must have been shorting out somewhere when it was hanging around.

Still got no clock action and after taking it out of the instrument panel I wasn't game enough to dismantle it! might have to source a replacement or get it repaired.

Reckon I'll just crack on and refit the whole lot now and worry about the clock later.

Cheers

David

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Wed Jul 06, 2011 8:03 pm

One brake light dash for all its tasks there-simple

Yep, a digital stick on clock for now

Those clocks come out of the dash pod on their own. The was a brumby wrecker in here near you in QLD GTcompletepower?
Did my dash out in 2.5 hours and 'bout same for back in , some years back on me own

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Jul 07, 2011 1:39 am

Sounds good mate!

If you've still got the windscreen out I recommend putting the dash in first - those screws/bolts near the demister vents are a PITA with the windscreen in!

If the windscreen is in, you'll most likely have to make up a tool to get those screws/bolts back in! Either a funky screw driver thing or bend a ring spanner to the right angle/shape

Cheers

Bennie

David D · Post by **David D** » Thu Jul 07, 2011 4:33 pm

Thanks guys

It's all in now but I came unstuck on the last piece of the puzzle. When I went to refit the steering wheel, I tried the indicator cancelling mechanism but it didn't seem to be working. There is a white plastic collar with 2 pins which look like they should fit into 2 holes on the back of the steering wheel either side of the splines (hope that makes sense). However, the steering wheel doesn't go far enough on for the pins to go in. I can kind of get the cancelling mechanism to work by hand but not with the steering wheel on. Any ideas? I hope I've explained it well enough.

Cheers

David

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Jul 07, 2011 8:10 pm

on mine the white nylon ring on the column is supposed to have two bump stops but the war down enough not to cancel, or have you installed yours to find cancel not work when they it before?

David D · Post by **David D** » Thu Jul 07, 2011 8:40 pm

To be honest, mate, I didn't drive it enough to remember before I took it apart so it may not have worked before but it looks like the white plastic bit should turn with the steering wheel and mine doesn't engage properly. I guess it's not the end of the world and I can always fix it down the line if it bugs me.

Cheers

David

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Fri Jul 08, 2011 6:09 am

David, check out the back of the steering wheel, I think there might be a tab on there that is meant to engage the plastic tabs you talk about to disengage the indicator...

But I'm not 100% sure on that one!

Cheers

Bennie

David D · Post by **David D** » Fri Jul 08, 2011 8:54 am

I think you're right, Bennie, but my steering wheel just doesn't seem to connect with the tabs. I can see 2 little holes where it looks like it should engage but it's just not quite close enough. There is a spring on the white plastic collar which might be supposed to push it against the wheel and maybe it's lost it's springiness?

David