ea82t 86 leone 3plug wiring diagram

Rhino82 · Post by **Rhino82** » Thu May 10, 2012 5:28 pm

hi there new to this site so please bare with me ha

im putting a EA82t into my jet boat, im told the motor is out of an 1986 omega rx coupe. MPFI
im looking for a wiring diagram or ecu pin out to help us figure out why we cant get injection pulse (we have spark but seems the injectors are not being told when to fire)

i found one diagram for a 3plug ecu on here but it dosnt seem to match the 3plug computer or loom i have.

any help is greatly appreciated thanks alot, Orion

PS i hope i have posted this in the right place?

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu May 10, 2012 8:15 pm

You are in the right place alright.

Can you post up the diagram you found, part number and brand of distributor, whether dizzy wires enter body at its base or just below the cap mating surface, vac can on side or not - please

AFM flapper or hotwire ?

What ECU do you have ? Part number helps too

Omega RX coupe eh ? Nelson - where in the world is that ?!

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Thu May 10, 2012 10:26 pm

Omega coupe, im guessing NZ

Yeah post the diagram and well sus it out for you

Rhino82 · Post by **Rhino82** » Fri May 18, 2012 7:19 pm

hi i found the diagram in thred ` difference between 3 and 4 plug ecu` i think from memory? i think you posted it gannon?

ah flapper style air flow, yes has vaccume on dis and the wires enter just below the mating surface.

yes from little old new zealand, haha

i have since found diagrams at my local libuary but cant find a pin out that matches and me and the sparkie are still a bit stuck haha

where does the pulse come from to trigger the injection, as in is there a crank or fly wheel sensor or is it sent by the distributer? there is nothing obvious on the motor but it has had some bit stripped of it when i got it,

sorry for the late reply i will be more onto it from nw on haha thanks

Rhino82 · Post by **Rhino82** » Fri May 18, 2012 7:22 pm

oh and the numbers on the computer are: A11-000 971
22611 AA001
5122

hope this is useful

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Fri May 18, 2012 7:44 pm

Ignition pulse comes from the negative side of the coil.

Injectors have constant +12v supply to them and they are grounded or earthed by the ECU. This may be your issue. Check to see if you have connected up the positive supply to the injectors, and then when testing the output of the ECU, test between a 12v supply and the output terminal

Does your ECS or check engine light come on when the ignition is on?

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri May 18, 2012 9:13 pm

I know what you mean now by the square plug - found one attached to what was a 4 plugger ECU driven, late model spider manifold from Vortex, covered in blue split plastic wire casing - name slips me, convoluted tubing ! by Fury

Rhino82 · Post by **Rhino82** » Sat May 19, 2012 6:48 am

ok thanks i will show the sparkie what youve suggested and go from there it may take a few days tho.

not sure on the engine light as i have just the engine loom but not the dash etc. we are just trying to run the motor, then start stripping off the wires we dont need to run the motor and fitting it into the boat.

ok cool so all of these 86 ea82t get the ignition pulse from the coil, like there is no posability that wiring is a tiny bit different down here in NZ ?

as far as i know the injectors have definitly got power all the time so it looks like were not grounding it properly? on the test light it shows power but it should flicker on and off when we turn it over right?

we have no `flicker` in injector power.

thanks

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Sat May 19, 2012 7:12 am

You are better off with an LED test light because at low revs and low throttle openings, the injector 'on' time is small and is sometimes not enough to make a little filament glow.

I suggest wiring up the check engine light, this may help you with your diagnosis.

Wire in a low wattage lamp between pin 45 (should be a red and blue wire) and a +12v ignition source.

It should come on when you turn the key to on, and go out as you crank the engine.

If you ground the test wire, pin 7 (red and white wire) the check engine light should flash a code in long and short flashes

Rhino82 · Post by **Rhino82** » Sat May 19, 2012 7:57 am

ok great i will try that monday. not sure what test light he used but an LED should have quite a visable flicker even when just cranking it over should it?
thanks

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat May 19, 2012 9:17 am

LED meaning NOID light tester ?

So, all this is in the 86 car at the moment as you strip ?
Is there a VIN on the car you wanna share and make date? Do you have compliance plates on it NZ or was this a grey import from Japan not sold by NZ dealer in 86 ? I see it is a coupe so suspect grey import from Japan, but never know what we missed in Oz at the time, well, we know we did not get turbo L wagons when we should have - imagine the sales boost that could have been !!

Rhino82 · Post by **Rhino82** » Sun May 20, 2012 8:08 am

sorry i put you wrong there the motor is already in the boat and the loom completly stripped out of the car. we have got the whole vechile loom spread out on the boat floor and began plugging everything in and hookin up power feeds etc. only thing that not working is injection signal.

so na no vin plates or any thing, tho if they are going to be spuer helpful i may possable be able to track it down, bit of a mission tho haha

thanks

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun May 20, 2012 8:24 am

so have you located the single pole green plugs (bit lighter than Kermit green) that would be close to ecu , you connect these to get diagnostic on ecu but now i think of it may need to be running to get result

you got from hatch back - was ecu in trunk or right up with fuse box on steering column ?

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun May 20, 2012 9:00 am

trouble code 4-2 is open circuit or grounding of injector, or defect of injector

check connector IV is involved, is a five pole open unusd plug in loom , likely firewall side, drivers side, confirmed BLUE in colour

WR, clip, WL
W, empty, WB

are all ecu grounds ecu pins 43,47,48,connected to a good ground the rest of the system is conncted to ? There may be a single unused connctor in blue plastic used to check that the ground is connected.

your injectors are pins 37,38,41, 46

with ignition off, you need to test fusible link to see if it is conducting.
If not, disconnect batt + pos terminal and replace FL

disconnect plugs from ecu

measure resistance between inj #1 (W) , #2(WB) ,#3 (WR) and #4(WL) of check connector 4 [IV] and battery harness +
normal value is 2 - 3 Ohms.

If you do get correct values of 2 - 3 Ohms check the harness for a short to ground between FL and each injector. If shorted repair harness.

if you get zero Ohms, wrong , disconnect each injector and measure resistance.

now, if you get any test as zero Ohms says replace injector and ECU.

If you get 2-3 Ohms, check injector body harnss shorting to battery +. repair, and replace ecu

Or if FL is supplying pos power, there is a longer chain of tests - all most result in replace ecu .....

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Sun May 20, 2012 9:07 am

Can you take a heap of photos of the wiring loom you have, including the plugs at the ecu, the engine ect.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun May 20, 2012 9:09 am

ECU connector plug wire #'s not sue if this is looking at cu or its plugs !!

28,27,26,25,24,23,22,21
36,35,34,33,32,31,30,29

the clip [or clip catch) is above 25,24 with guides above between 27,26 and 23,22

10,09,08,07,06,05,04,03,02,01
20,19,18,17,16,15,14,13,12,11 clip [or catch] is above 6,5

40,39, clip,38,37
45,44,43,42,41
51,50,49,48,47,46

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun May 20, 2012 9:14 am

numbers start in middle ECU plug

01 R Ti Monitor
02 LgW AFM aspirated air temp
03 BG Coolant thermo sensor
04 Oxy sensor shileded wire
05 BR Controlling ground
06 YL AFM ground
07 RW jumper wire for test
08 LW Throttle Sw IDle
09 BW starter switch
10 GR throttle switch full bore
11 G air flow meter UB
12 GB accelerator switch
13 RY pressure switch Turbo, vac switch NA
14 LG O2 monitor
15 LY air flow meter UFIX
16 YR AFM US
17 GY clutch switch
18 RG high altititude signal
19 ignition pulse signal shielded wire Oz non turbo ?
20 ditto

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun May 20, 2012 9:22 am

the other plug with two levels

21 IG pulse shielded wire - Oz turbo ?
22 YR car speed sensor in speedo head DING DING ??
23 BrR egr solenoid valve
24
25 BrB KDLH relay
26
27
28 L A/C SW (VB)
29
30 YG Ex temp Sw
31 BR AT/MT discrimination
32 Turbo NA discrimination
33 RB Pressure SW
34
35
36

now the three level plug....

37 W inj#1
38 WB inj #2
39 LB Fuel pump relay
40 WB poer supply
41 WR inkj #3
42 R F/ICCD
43 B Driving ground
44 Lg Line end cord output
45 RL ECS lamp
46 WL inj #4
47 B driving ground
48 B driving ground
49 for controlling fuel pump current
50 W Fuel pump current control
51

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun May 20, 2012 9:36 am

Rhino82 wrote:I'm told the motor is out of an 1986 omega rx coupe. MPFI

wonder now if no injector pulse is why motor came out in first place. W not know if it was a goer then eh?

Rhino82 · Post by **Rhino82** » Sun May 20, 2012 9:55 am

wow ok that is great thanks alot i think i will just have to have a good go at every thing now and get back to you on how we get on.

ah the guy i got motor off brought it out of a running car to put in his brumby ute i think but got to busy to do it. so as far as i know the motor is good although the loom and computer( thats same as ecu right? ha) are from a wrecked car hed never seen running so there may be some fault there but i will try every thing you have suggested in the next few day and let you know.

Thanks very much!