Outer CV boots MY 1983 Touring Wagon

GunFactory · Post by **GunFactory** » Fri Nov 09, 2012 7:52 pm

Ok.

Apologies for the post about CV's, they do seem to be covered a lot.

I havent done a job like this before but I'm keen to have a go.

My question is about changing the outer boot with the least amount of hassle. I have found a lot of information of removing the axel. However, after this point with the axel removed.... what's the best/quickest/least rage inspiring way to get about re-packing and re-booting the outer joint?

The reason I ask is because as far as I can tell from the Haynes service manual, the steering knuckle needs something special to remove and they suggest taking it to a shop. The manual I have doesn't go into any more detail about how to address the outer CV boot..... (as far as i'm aware)

Do people recommend taking apart the inner DOJ and then gain access to the outer CV? or go from the CV end..? If from the CV end, does anyone have any advice that builds on what TOONGA stated in the thread below:

[After shaft is out]

"then you can remove the outer CV after you have used a soft face hammer to clear the CV of the bearings in the knuckle."

showthread.php?t=21206

Apologies again, I know this is a regular topic, I just want to be sure I have a clear picture of what I'm doing before I dive in!

Any tips, links and advice would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers.

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Sat Nov 10, 2012 2:45 am

Personally if you have the shaft (axle) out, then I'd be servicing both inner and outer CVJ. This way you know they're all good. The price of good quality boot kits these days is around $25 each, so a lot better than replacing joints if left for too long.

I would remove the shafts from the vehicle and then remove the inner joint then work on the outer.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Nov 10, 2012 7:25 am

Paul, you are starting to sound like a repair manual "remove from vehicle" and "remove the inner joint" !

Sometimes these manuals state the bleeding obvious, with the reader asking self (and forums like ours) HTF ?

Sometimes just cheaper and easier in the long run go buy a whole new CV shaft assy and shove it in. It has new everything and is cleaner as that CV grease is the worst stuff to get off everything - wax and grease remover is better than degreaser due to its soap base ? grease.

It is years since have rebuilt a pair out of four or five shafts , though got a split boot now on my L.

L shafts generally not meant to be able to be completely dissembled by average joe, MYs are .....

undo big 36mm nut first, jack up, remove wheel, remove caliper and hang from above, undo three 14mm headed bolts at bal joint and strut, tie rod needs undo nut and smack so F hard with big F hammer at the front of the knuckle that the tapered hole expands and tie rod drops out, or spend 20 bucks ? at SCA for a ball taper breaker thingo, knock out pin of inner joint called double offset joint and somehow remove the the front hub with whole CV shaft . Once out of car may take a good whack to poke CV out of front hub, tear old boot and bands off, clean up excess grease, then there is another hammer action to knock CV joint off shaft past a ring spring clip on end of shafts splines....

breathe .....let us know how you go....

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Sat Nov 10, 2012 9:36 am

Jonno, GunFactory already stated he has a workshop manual and his one is pretty good for explanations, so I didn't really need to go into too much detail. I was making the point it's easier to remove and replace boots whilst out. I personally prefer to replace the whole shaft but after buying 4 "cheap" CV shaft for my last Gen2 Brumby, I would NEVER recommend it to anyone.. they were complete utter crap. I understand it's messy but with a pair of surgical gloves and plenty of rags, the job can be done cleanly. From now on it's only genuine shafts for early models.

GunFactory · Post by **GunFactory** » Sun Nov 11, 2012 7:53 am

Cheers guys!

I'll be giving it a crack on thursday as an after exams present to myself.. ha.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Nov 11, 2012 8:08 am

gees, did I write that ?

I have had mixed service lives from che*repco*ap CV shafts part no CVS110 ? and some have not gone for more than a month without cause to be warranted. My best pair so far are my rebuilt with many parts and I remember the day well - sheets of cardboard, CV grease, rags, gloves, balls, joints, all over the floor banding tool. Thy ahve outlasted the 100,000 5 year warranty the others came with

I have reread and reread the OP and understand my reprimand

Post by **TOONGA** » Sun Nov 11, 2012 8:36 am

steptoe wrote:gees, did I write that ? My best pair so far are my rebuilt with many parts and I remember the day well - sheets of cardboard, CV grease, rags, gloves, balls, joints, all over the floor banding tool. Thy ahve outlasted the 100,000 5 year warranty the others came with

Same here, the CV shafts I built for my brumby when the conversion was done are still going strong. (will probably regret saying that now)

GunFactory take your time, do the job slowly and make sure you are confident and comfortable with the job you are doing. It may take a while to do the first shaft but once you have done one, then the next one will be way easier.

TOONGA

GunFactory · Post by **GunFactory** » Sun Nov 11, 2012 9:14 am

Cheers TOONGA,

Slow and steady will definitely be the way forward..

Repco seem to have the longest KM (100,000km) and (5) Year warranty on their complete shafts. - can anyone vouch for their Boots in terms of longevity? Price for two boots grease and clamps was around $25 off the top of my head.

Subaru mechanic quoted $20 per boot for what I assume are original Subaru parts.

Also - Inner and outer joints are two different types of grease - correct?

Again - Thanks!

Post by **TOONGA** » Sun Nov 11, 2012 9:28 am

inner and out are the same grease and 20 dollars a boot won't be genuine parts.

If I could get subaru CV boot kits for that price I would use them on all my vehicles.

TOONGA

GunFactory · Post by **GunFactory** » Sun Nov 11, 2012 9:38 am

Hahah, Good to know hey!

Right, for some reason i thought i read something about the inner needing some kind of more heat resistant grease. Thanks for clearing that up.

Finally, I also want to replace one of the power-steering boots that has a split, the Haynes manual suggests that if it is split then to clean and re-grease or lubricate. - Again forgive my ignorance, but what exactly is inside these boots, what do I put back in?

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Sun Nov 11, 2012 9:59 am

Not sure if geniune ones are still available but Frog (Andy) will let you know. These would be the best but failing that, make sure you get boots that are very pliable and have more rubber than plastic in their composition. And a good banding tool is worth it's weight in gold.

GunFactory · Post by **GunFactory** » Sun Nov 11, 2012 10:12 am

RSR 555 wrote:And a good banding tool is worth it's weight in gold.

Indeed, seems to be the way to go.

Thanks

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun Nov 11, 2012 6:31 pm

I got my banding tool from ebay - it came with some extra bands too which have come in handy. From memory it was about $30 including postage.

It's a great piece of kit to have on hand and not difficult to add to the travelling kit when touring.

Cheers

Bennie

GunFactory · Post by **GunFactory** » Thu Nov 15, 2012 8:41 am

Hey all.

The Day is here.

Ive been looking pretty throughly at the Haynes manual, seems like a bit of a mission.

Couple of questions about marking of the original positions of certain things.

- are there components I need to mark to ensure I preserve wheel alignment toe angle etc?
- Is it a matter of taking a picture pre removal and refering later or counting threads?

Do most members tackle this task with a puller? or reversed castle nut and blocks of wood? any tips?

Annny way thanks again for advice.

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Thu Nov 15, 2012 7:05 pm

Not really that bad. I'd do like Jonno mentioned... but this is my way of doing it.

Remove the split pin/s, then loosen the 36mm castle nut/s. Then jack up the front and place on axle stands. Remove wheel/s and remove castle nut, washer and taper washer. Then remove 14mm bolt/s from lower ball joint/s, then using a good lever bar, pop the ball joint/s out of the stub axle. Then knock out the 6mm roll pin/s on the inner CV Joint/s. Now swing the sub axle out to allow the inner CV Joint to come off the gearbox spline, then let the drive shaft drop and knock the ball joint/s back in (no real need to put the bolt back in at this stage) and using a brass drift (or similar) knock the outer CV Joint through the stub axle. I use a drift with a fairly point end so it stays central to the shaft and away from damaging the thread. Once knocked through the bearings, you should be able to grab the shaft and maneuver it out. This way you won't need to undo any of your steering system (thus no need to mark stuff) although pics always helps if it's your first rodeo.

Putting back in is mostly the reverse but just be careful that the outer CV Joint goes in as straight as possible. I also make sure the taper washer has no lips/wear on it to cause it to foul up against the splined hub. Then once all back together (without the castle nut split pin), put the car back on the ground and tighten the 36mm nut to as tight as you can do it (please don't do it to the specs in the manual, as this is only good when the car was brand new) I have had so many of these MY model cars and believe me, you wont hurt or damage it. Chuck the split pin back in and take for a test drive

GunFactory · Post by **GunFactory** » Fri Nov 16, 2012 12:15 am

Cheers RSR, and others for the comments - Inspired me to give this job a go despite bugger all mechanical know how - despite consuming my whole day I found the process bloody fun - so good to have a change from essays and reports ect. Hands tools and cars are fun!!

Sorry I posted that thismorning before getting very keen and going in headfirst... I took photos - because threads are always more exiting with them

I have the RH Axel out still attached to the steering knuckle. Joints cleaned ready for grease and new boots (install tomorrow)

[ATTACH]3667[/ATTACH]

First time with a puller.. crazy things! the rotor literally jumped off I was scared shitless. haha.

[ATTACH]3668[/ATTACH]

Oh I think I also overstreached the circlip on the inner DOJ - going to acquire a new one (2 just to be safe) from the mechanic in the morning.

At this point - Im not sure exactly what Ive buggered up in-terms of steering/wheel geometry, if someone could hit me with it... that would be awesome. I have marked the point which the shock was at before removing.. thats about it - not sure if this achieves anything.

So steering rack end is detached, Lower control arm ball joint is out of the steering knuckle and suspension is also out.

I have a question in regard to the ball joint that sits in the knuckle - It came out and was covered (lightly) in sort of powdery rust - as if it was dry the photo below is poor but shows it a little. Is there some specific lubrication/oil/grease that goes on this peice?

[ATTACH]3669[/ATTACH]

Also I managed to get a better look at the torn power steering boot while everything was off. (pics below) what are your thoughts on the liquid coming out? Haha. Im going to get some stop leak but any prognosis is welcome. And yeah confirmed for myself that I do need the boot with the breather.

[ATTACH]3670[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]3671[/ATTACH]

GunFactory · Post by **GunFactory** » Fri Nov 16, 2012 12:40 am

RSR 555 wrote:
then let the drive shaft drop and knock the ball joint/s back in (no real need to put the bolt back in at this stage) and using a brass drift (or similar) knock the outer CV Joint through the stub axle. I use a drift with a fairly point end so it stays central to the shaft and away from damaging the thread.

Could I press this out using the puller?

Also on a side note - I ran into a spot of car trouble today while getting parts for the CVs.

Car was running and had driven for about 8km before I switched it off for 10min while in a shop. I stated up and left but the car stalled after about 30sec of running. Couldn't get it to run agin engine would turn over but immediately die.

I inspected the fuel line (what I assume is the fuel line) and no fuel came out under cranking, followed line up to far RH side of the engine bay to a 'thing' 'contraption' of some kind with a top fuel out hose and bottom fuel in hose. Took off one at a time cranked still nothing on removing bottom hose hears some 'air' 'gurgling' kind of noise. Gave up and put it all back together - one last crank and the car started as if nothing had happened. (cheeky)

This has happened once before. I took the air cleaner off and on cranking a spray of fuel came out of the Carbie for a moment then nothing - removed fuel hose and cranked - fuel came out. I then put it all back together and the car started as if nothing had happened...

Any ideas on what could be up?

- Definitely heard 'air type' noises
- What is the 'Thing' in the corner - Am I even dealing with the fuel line...?

Rodeo4jake · Post by **Rodeo4jake** » Fri Nov 16, 2012 3:49 am

G'day there,
Yeah you are following the fuel line, the thing you're describing up in the corner is the fuel filter. I would recommend getting a new one & fitting it for a start. Sometimes they get left to long & become blocked. The electric fuel pump in a Subaru like yours works at a low pressure so a blocked up filter could possibly be causing this problem.
Filter should be cheap, I think around $10 from memory.

GunFactory · Post by **GunFactory** » Fri Nov 16, 2012 7:38 am

Ok... I must sound like an absolute idiot! Shit.. that would make sense as it has arrows for in and out flow...

So does this mean the car has 2? The reason im so confused is I have just replaced the fuel filter in the rear near the fuel tank!!

Crazy!

GunFactory · Post by **GunFactory** » Fri Nov 16, 2012 7:53 am

Ok - so could this filter be the vapour separator?